Recent content by DocDoom

Don't know if this goes here but here we go.

There is a jb weld specifically for tanks that is pretty good. Maybe empty it or mostly, cover a bright flashlight with something that blocks it coming from the fill cap and explore that way. I would say pull the tank but that's kind of annoying until you verify.

Roger. So it is a drop in replacement up to the pipe. Thank you!

Does the galfer clutch line have all of the equipment the OEM one does? In photos it looks like the line is just two loops for banjo bolts, whereas the OEM line (15 in the diagram with the master cyl) has basically everything until it fits into the pipe (part 32 in the clutch diagram.) Should...

It does help, I just have a skill, experience, and neuroticism issue. Any uncontrolled polyethylene glycol or the derivative ethers would drive me insane without a designated cleanroom, beach living doesn't favor garages; and I like my liver and my dog's kidneys, though the biological action is...

Gracias that's what I was thinking too. Glad you know that's the equivalent and grouped appropriately compared to aftermarket rebuild kits.

In terms of major corrective surgery does the attached look about right? I put question marks where it might not be clear whether to replace while in there. I plan to go with galfer stainless lines on the clutch side as they claim to be wrapped with PVC to prevent abrasion.

That's a good thought, I thought that too but it really only seems to be a moving toward upstairs problem, standard bleeding with the ol wrench and squeeze makes the bleed screw lively. The opposite isn't true. When I replace the assemblies and lines though I'll prolly give all the stuff still...

Sorry it's 4 years, service manual section 2-3 paragraph/note 1 point 3. I remembered incorrectly. Okay. So, no compressed air on hand but I do have those plugs used to clear condensate lines with c02 cartridges so that'll work. So, maybe it's the line gunking stuff up then, but...

Okay so I attempted a reverse bleed, and I found the amount of pressure to get fluid up the line was more or less prohibitive. I was using a clamp and 200ml syringe, and best I could do was make the fluid upstairs jiggle a bit from a couple mls of fluid. Had I tried harder I have no doubt it...

That makes sense and I hadn't considered it. I suppose I could reverse bleed and see if there's improvement, haven't had much time to tinker. The fluid was clean though. The clutch gets real spongy when hot. At this point I'm thinking if there's crud in a 22 year old master cylinder with 22...

Well I poked at it. The fluid is just below the lower line when cold. The lack of geisering could be the same because of cold. The pin did not go in very far and I tried quite a few gauges. IDK, I'm gonna say maybe 3-5 millimeters or so. We'll see. I'll keep everyone apprised if the reaming...

Thanks a bunch. Yeah it's not the oil I don't think I'm running the rotella t4 from here.

Yessir, I'll replace those next if this doesn't resolve it.

Yessir, will do. The fluid is clean, no telling what level of deterioration in the lines is though, as I changed it right after getting the bike it hasn't had enough time to give me that indicator of detritus from the lines. Does the cover usually go on without much fanfare on these models or...