Search results

Hey guys, follow up/update here: The clips were in the middle (I think slot 3 of 6), and I bumped them up 1 slot each. My mileage increased 40%! Fuel light would come on at around 100kms and now I can get to around 140kms before it comes on. My question now is, what happens if I go another...

I have UFO 4-1 and had the same problem/worry, but its totally fine. Bought this jack and it works great http://techniciantools.ca/index.php/catalog/product/view/id/7135/category/747/ Also, if you're not looking to really lift it, you can still use the center stand if you still have it, it...

Perfect, thanks!

I'm trying to find instructions on here on how to do this, but cant find it. Anyone know of the thread I'm looking for, assuming it exists?

That was easy, I have the 175's installed

Excellent, I'll look into that tomorrow

I bought her last summer and put almost 2000kms now, but the mileage has always been this bad.

ya thats what I was thinking too, ordered a carbtune this week actually and I'll check the plugs and filters then too. But otherwise the bike is running and sounding great. And ya, my step brother in town actually has a vmax as well with similar mods, and he's the one who told me that he gets...

Ya that all sounds about right then, shortly after light comes on I'm always putting $15 worth @ around $1.29/liter

Not sure as I bought the bike used with the kit already installed, but I have all the original parts and packaging etc. Would it be easy enough for me to figure out?

Hey all! I'm currently getting around 100kms (about 60miles) out of a full tank before the fuel light comes on, which I thought might have been pretty normal given the mods, but then I looked more into it and discovered that something must be wrong She's an '04, with stage 7, UFO 4-2-1...

Without the seals in, yes, but once the seals were in I needed a bit of pressure to get the piston in and they weren't coming out unless I used compressed air.

Ya, I have no problem getting the piston out with compressed air, and I can push/pull fluid out through the bleede to the m/c no problem too. Also all the rings look fine. It's only when I engage the brake does the one piston not move.

Alright, UPDATE #3: Got the washer fix on the axle, now no binding! Got the syringe for reverse bleeding (so much better!), and now the clutch is working! But its not all a happy story...still having rear brake problems: rebuilt and cleaned the caliper, reassembled, but only one piston is...

I ended up going with a fairy cheap ATV lift that is working great so far (the reviews seem pretty hit or miss). It is a bit wobbly I'll admit, but it's not going anywhere unless I really try to knock her off...

Re: spacer between wheel and caliper bracket Thats the problem then! I was sure when I took the wheel off there was no spacer there but it all makes more sense now. Re: clutch bleeding I'll be purchasing a syringe tomorrow and try that method, seems like by far the easiest way. Re...

UPDATE 2: I took off the rear brake caliper and I'm in the process of rebuilding as one of the pistons had seized, and it appears it had been like that for quite sometime as the pad is almost completely worn down while the other looks almost new. The nipple screw is pretty corroded at the...

UPDATE 1: Is there not supposed to be a washer here where the red arrow points?

I am running a 170, but the washer is not flanged, so I don't think the one in the differential is the same one from the brake side.

I suspect this is what happened as well.