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Well written, I ended up heating (heat gun works fine) the bearing housing, bearing was in the fridge, upon the heat, cold bearing, damn thing dropped rite in!! no pounding period!! Woo hoo!

no offense at all, Ive done this in the past on my last Vmax (92) never had problems. But. alas, I will heed your steps and try that. thxs

Happy new yr everyone, I have an 07, carbs all clean, nice and tight, the only problem, carbs 1,2,3 synch beautifully, #4 is off. no matter what I do, it will not line up with the rest. I even swapped out the vac. lines between 3 and 4 just to see if #3 displays what 4 showed. it did...

well said

mine are moving freely, no stiction. Im selling it!

Its never ending. Now my 07 does this: starts right up, idles fine, air screws about 2.5 out on all 4 carbs, (even though Ive heard the back carbs should be turned out differently) as you accelerate, it revs thru the range ok, no stumbling, but if your at a steady state cruise, in a lower...

I actually found bike batteries at Batteries Plus, and they work pretty well. half the fricking cost too

I strongly agree with Sean. I bought a set of Barnetts. Don't do it!! They are thinner, way thinner. shifting was notchy and trying to find neutral. forget it. I went ahd and installed all new everything clutch OEM. No problems.

Finally! fixed my clutch crap issue. Installed all new OEM plates, OEM master cylinder, new secondary master cylinder. Bled the lines one more time, shifts like brand new, finding neutral is perfect. all is well. now, I gotta synch the carbs, adjust the air mixture screw, I tell ya, 13 yr...

I need the OEM clutch reservoir setup

Im 62, this is my 3rd Vmax, had a 98, 2005. Current one is an 07. I still race, 14 R1, GSXR 750. dirt bikes too, a lot of fun

I noticed an extra ground looking wire on the negative battery terminal, coming out of a wiring harness bundle, wondering why its grounded in that fashion to the battery post? So, I decided to ground it to the frame instead, and the bike ran like crap, I shut off the bike and it continued to...

what spline? on the clutch cover, on the rite?

Well Sean is right, not a fan of Barnett kits either. Compared to the OEM, its thinner and the metal plates are smooth. OEM is thicker and the metal plates are dimpled. But still having problems finding neutral, and the shifting now, is somewhat notchy. I plan on going back to the old OEM...

Well, Im older now, still racing the R1's on the track, barely ride the street, but when I do, its scary. I just realized how bad my mirrors buzz, so bad in fact, I will cruise in 5th gear above mid range just to keep the buzzing to a minimum. any higher, mirrors are fricking useless. Short...

my 07 has the OEM handle bars which eventually over time, started to vibrate really bad. Mang! I chkd the usual culprits, those chkd out. So, I opted to try a set of Renthal Street fighter bars. Wow.. ZERO, I mean ZERO vibration, meaning, the mirrors are clear, no fuzzy shaking vibration...

the worst location for the RR. I relocated mine to the back of the bike under my rack, looks OEM and cools so much better.

but!! bear in mind, the two back cylinders do not receive a good blast of cooling air, will or may have a different in/out rate. I adjusted mine whereas the front two were like 2-2.5 turns out, back, 1-1.5 out. Not stock, running a full Yosh system (retro fitted mind you) K/N filter, stock air...

61 here, been riding since I was 11. It was a CB100 66 model my Dad owned. Reminds me of the time when the Harley riders hated "Rice burners" not knowing that during the AMF Harley ownership days during the late 60-70s, that all Harleys ( I assume most of them ) had Kehin carbs. Seems to me...

Well, welcome, Ive been running a 120 up front, I believe it turns heavy, fills up the fender well, not much clearance, I'm going back to OEM 110.