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#1: No, the spark plugs were in the cylinders when I started the bike yesterday with no success. I was referring to when I checked for spark the other day. #2: The other day, I took the spark plugs out, connected to the wires, and turned over the bike while the tip of a screwdriver was touching...

I believe the plugs are firing because when I turned it over while holding a screw driver to the plugs they produced spark. However rear 2 cylinders still not firing. Even after replacing plugs, wires and coils.

Yes, everything is wired correctly, rear cylinders still not firing. Wonder if I messed it up taking it on the freeway on only 2 cylinders

And backfiring and popping like crazy I might add, I can’t have it running for long or the neighbors are gonna report gunshots in the neighborhood

So turns out I had the starter relay connected incorrectly. Fixed that and went to start the bike and still running on 2 cylinders. New coils, wires, starter relay, fuse.

Okay I’ll try holding clutch in and starting it, also maybe I should put my old starter relay in it and see what happens, I’ll also check all my connections.

Good to know that Sean sells the coil over plug kit. So today I installed some parts that Sean sent me (thank you again Sean) including ignition coils, wires, fuse, and the round metal cylinder in the middle (don’t know name). Went to start the bike and everything turns on, all the lights, and...

Good to know thank you. However how am I to remove the harness coil leads without it taking a lot of time to access? To access those wouldn’t I just be accessing the front coils anyway?

Good to know. Sean is actually sending me his electrical testing kit. I’m gonna swap out coils and wires and see if that fixes.

Inside of ignition coil connections

So I would like to note something. When I ran it the other day, I noticed that the clear red part in the plug wire on the rear 2 cylinders were very very dim, like it was barely producing a light or spark, while on the front 2 cylinders the light in the clear red part was very bright and very...

Oh okay, so I’m assuming this has nothing to do with the issue

What exactly is it turning to “off/normal/full time” ?

Hey, newbie here. Got my 1994 Vmax with 30,000 miles on June 9th. Wondering if there is someone in or around the Alameda/San Francisco/Oakland California area that knows about V-Maxes and would be willing to help me out with my V-Max. Its not quite running right. I would greatly appreciate it...

Good point, it seemed to be running good even before I discovered that, I'm not gonna worry about it too much. Was in contact with Sean earlier and he's sending me his electrical diagnosis kit which helps a ton. Hopefully it's the ignition coils or wires.

But the fact that something is disconnected back near the battery doesn’t sit well with me. Makes me think that might be the issue. Who knows though

Okay so on the left is the wire coming from the hockey puck, on the right is a connection that somebody has cut and soldered together for some reason. Not sure if these connect, not sure where that soldered piece even goes to

So there is a lead coming from the hockey puck that goes back near the battery but it is unplugged from something, it looks like it came out from under the tape and got disconnected. I’m gonna try to reconnect and see what happens