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Selling my '92 in order to fund a new ride....it's in good shape except for some cosmetic things on the chrome and a small gasket leak from the carbs. I changed all the fluids, new battery, and gave it a new (OEM) clutch master cylinder. Lots of aftermarket stuff and I have loads of paperwork...

I raced hare scrambles for years....they still start like that for some events (Except you can kick start a dirtbike, but same idea)

Complete chaos....o_O

Ok, so provided the connections are good and clean, you have a running bike even if the battery is dead as long as the voltage runs through the "charging parts"...yeah? So the theory is right? At least in the case of old bikes...which is what I have and what I grew up on and what I love to...

Going to circle back on this thread...my buddy says before we went out riding; "If your battery is dead in the bike and your still riding it, that's a sign your charger parts are working"...is that right?

I'm a male...I only read the manual or ask for directions in extreme circumstances...lol. It was the battery too. I put a new one in (Odyssey PC680) and rode all day yesterday without any issues.

So quick question; would a bad stator measure too much resistance on a OHM meater? The manual says 0.42 but I put my meter on the "OHM Rx1" setting, which I hope is right...and it comes out to close to 7.0. I have this model: https://file.ecmindustries.com/-/media/inriver/SP-10A_USE.pdf...

I agree. I am having "battery" issues as well, did a short ride and battery dead. I bought a new one, going to put it in but not before I measure the other variables according to the manual specs. No one works on these bikes anymore but those who own them so if you can build up the...

And that is why I was actually considering keeping it; I actually bought this thing from my buddy becuase when he bought it new in the early 90's, I said to him if you ever sell it, give me first dibs...took 25 years or so but now it's in my garage and I'm trying to replicate the look and feel...

Ok, I'll try with and without and see if there's a difference. It's mounted such that there's no holes cut in the bike so it's super easy to remove. That picture I posted was just one I found on the internet as an example. Thanks guys!

I'm open to it! It has it though, might as well use it. I have the Scott's damper on all my dirtbikes and they saved me more than once. The saying goes "You don't even know it's there until you need it". I've heard the damper on these bikes only comes into play at 100+ MPH....not sure I'll go...

I bought a 1992 VMAX 1200 bike from my buddy and it has one of these old coat-hanger steering dampers. I want to service it but I can't find anything on the forum or on the web on what's involved. Does anyone know what kind of fluid is in it for starters?

Lack of maintenance is for sure the cause....my buddy had this thing in his garage for quite a few years so even though it only has 17k miles on it, all the fluids just sat there.

It's allllliiiiiiiiiiiivvvvvvveeeeeeee!!!!!! Reverse bled it after I got the debris out of the little second hole and we have a winner! It filled right up like it was meant to happen and we have a working clutch again! Thanks for all the help everyone!!!! Now we get to have the same kind of fun...

Ahhhhhh...ok. I do see it in the picture actually. Mine is certainly clogged - I will stick it in alcohol overnight and pull a wire from one of my wire brushes and see if I can clean it out tomorrow - thanks guys! I'll let you know how it turns out.

There's two holes and one is blocked. When I stick a wire in the blocked one though, it hits metal like it's not supposed to be drilled out all the way. Looking at the inside barrel, it's also shiny metal smooth like it's not drilled out all the way. Are there supposed to be two holes on this...

So just for the heck of it, I just disassembled the whole thing again and blew through each piece separately while still mounted to the bike. The master cylinder is where the blockage is. I'll recheck my work on that and see if that will fix it.

That's what I don't get though; if I can't blow any air through from the slave cylinder when it's completely empty, how will fluid get up into the master if I reverse bleed...? I tried it that way and the pressure just built up on my bleed tool (No fluid flow)...and just for the sake of saying...

Ok so I got a new master and slave clutch put on (That took forever to get the parts in) but now it will not fill up with brake fluid. If I open the drain bolt all the way and blow into it by mouth, it will not blow through at all; it's like blowing into a straw but you pinch the other end...

I'm thinking I may have destroyed the rubber parts (If there are any) inside the master cylinder when I hit it with carb cleaner....dangit! Maybe should have used alcohol like desert_max said....that's what you get for being in a hurry....