My Vmax performing like a 500cc

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You don't lose much oil, but have all your gaskets on hand. Make sure you use the bottom fastener washer for oil tightness on the mid gear cover, take a look at your clutch slave cyl if you remove that engine side cover.


hey quick note, what do you mean specifically by taking a look at the slave clutch cy linder? just see if leaking etc?
 
Yes, though you would know by the non-action of the clutch if it was bad. Still, if you see any corrosion around the bottom and if you've been having the clutch come-back further towards the handlebar, you could be due for a replacement of the slave cylinder.
 
2 QUESTIONS....

1.) shoot or pass? kidding. he's getting an arrow if we have a pow-wowwith him..... But, do I need to take the screws out from the outside of the alternator cover in order to remove the old stator ? Also, what's that big slot quarter-sized thing visible on outside of alternator cover? those 2 screws, phillips, on outside of alternator cover, yeah, do I need to remove those to take out old stator?

2) got the screw extractor set from Harbor Freight. Works great really... took a minute to figure out how to properly use them... stepping up from size 0-4 as you go.. and boom... takes those butter screws right out that hold the stator in from the inside... WILL MACHINE HEAD SCREWS (hexagon allen wrench heads) fit and have clearance for all the brackets and remounting the alternator cover and what not as a replacement for all the butter screws that Yamaha put on this bike?
 

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2 QUESTIONS....

1.) shoot or pass? kidding. he's getting an arrow if we have a pow-wowwith him..... But, do I need to take the screws out from the outside of the alternator cover in order to remove the old stator ? Also, what's that big slot quarter-sized thing visible on outside of alternator cover? those 2 screws, phillips, on outside of alternator cover, yeah, do I need to remove those to take out old stator?

2) got the screw extractor set from Harbor Freight. Works great really... took a minute to figure out how to properly use them... stepping up from size 0-4 as you go.. and boom... takes those butter screws right out that hold the stator in from the inside... WILL MACHINE HEAD SCREWS (hexagon allen wrench heads) fit and have clearance for all the brackets and remounting the alternator cover and what not as a replacement for all the butter screws that Yamaha put on this bike?

oh yeah...... one screw head busted off.. what's the best way to extract? I'm going to soak with penetrating oil for a bit.. not sure if just try extractor set or maybe need to drill in a bit with nice hard drill bit Irwin or something to get started... dont' want to mess up the threads so getting that thing out may be a bit tricky.... thoughts?
 
2 QUESTIONS....

1.) shoot or pass? kidding. he's getting an arrow if we have a pow-wowwith him..... But, do I need to take the screws out from the outside of the alternator cover in order to remove the old stator ? Also, what's that big slot quarter-sized thing visible on outside of alternator cover? those 2 screws, phillips, on outside of alternator cover, yeah, do I need to remove those to take out old stator?

2) got the screw extractor set from Harbor Freight. Works great really... took a minute to figure out how to properly use them... stepping up from size 0-4 as you go.. and boom... takes those butter screws right out that hold the stator in from the inside... WILL MACHINE HEAD SCREWS (hexagon allen wrench heads) fit and have clearance for all the brackets and remounting the alternator cover and what not as a replacement for all the butter screws that Yamaha put on this bike?

Big quarter sized slot thing is basically a threaded plug. Remove it, and you can see the timing marks on the flywheel.

The two allen head screws don't need to come off. They just hold the "insert" onto the cover. The insert is the round piece with the Yamaha symbol. You don't need to take that off. Just pull the whole cover.

As far as that broken screw you have, drill thru the center with a small bit. Use a bolt extractor. I like the square ones.
 
Big quarter sized slot thing is basically a threaded plug. Remove it, and you can see the timing marks on the flywheel.

The two allen head screws don't need to come off. They just hold the "insert" onto the cover. The insert is the round piece with the Yamaha symbol. You don't need to take that off. Just pull the whole cover.

As far as that broken screw you have, drill thru the center with a small bit. Use a bolt extractor. I like the square ones.

ok thanks man. i'll give it another shot tonight.
 
ok thanks man. i'll give it another shot tonight.

drilled out that screw but i am not sure i got it all out of there. it's the shorter one between the 2 sizes in there, and i got some bits and pieces but i am thinking i may have messed up the threads trying to drill it out..... tried to use extractor bits but wasn't catching....and it's smaller in diameter so can't really UP the size of the extractor bits to get in there without starting to chew up the alternator cover itself...... i got pieces and fragments of the screw , not sure if i got it all, or if threads are messed up where i can't put another screw in there... not sure yet. i know u guys can't really help out with that... so keep that in mind..

so tonight i guess i'll clean up the cover good. i got shavings of metal all over in it. i think i may have to take off the circle yamaha cover part cuz i think some metal pieces got in there.. so take that off and clean it too.... is there a gasket in there for that part as well? i need to order mid gear gasket anyways... waiting to see what parts i need in total before placing order...

but cleaned off the old gasket off the alternator cover.. still gotta do the bike side... just hold a towel or somptin when i do that to protect flywheel area and those gears in there while i scrape/sand the gasket part? i dunno, thinking out loud here. First time doing maintenance and upgrades on the Max as ya'll are well aware by now. lol.
 
drilled out that screw but i am not sure i got it all out of there. it's the shorter one between the 2 sizes in there, and i got some bits and pieces but i am thinking i may have messed up the threads trying to drill it out..... tried to use extractor bits but wasn't catching....and it's smaller in diameter so can't really UP the size of the extractor bits to get in there without starting to chew up the alternator cover itself...... i got pieces and fragments of the screw , not sure if i got it all, or if threads are messed up where i can't put another screw in there... not sure yet. i know u guys can't really help out with that... so keep that in mind..

so tonight i guess i'll clean up the cover good. i got shavings of metal all over in it. i think i may have to take off the circle yamaha cover part cuz i think some metal pieces got in there.. so take that off and clean it too.... is there a gasket in there for that part as well? i need to order mid gear gasket anyways... waiting to see what parts i need in total before placing order...

but cleaned off the old gasket off the alternator cover.. still gotta do the bike side... just hold a towel or somptin when i do that to protect flywheel area and those gears in there while i scrape/sand the gasket part? i dunno, thinking out loud here. First time doing maintenance and upgrades on the Max as ya'll are well aware by now. lol.

maybe try a re-threading kit? i dunno how to handle this guy now....
 

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I'm not a machinist. Looks like you need to clean everything really-well, and probably build-up weld in there, and re-drill/tap it. Not exactly sure what we're seeing there? Post a back-off pic that shows the side of the engine more wide-screen. You have to remove all of whatever is in there, as far as I know, before trying to re-cut the threads after building it up with weld bead. I don't think a heli-coil would be well-supported the way it's wallowed-out sideways.

maybe try a re-threading kit? i dunno how to handle this guy now....
 
ok thanks man. i'll give it another shot tonight.

ok.

got the shit cleaned up. alternator cover and parts. I need to go find replacement screws ... for everything. hoping that allen wrench stainless steel head screws will work even though they are bigger headed... hope room allows.

got the new RM Stator.. going to have to feed wires through that rubber plug thing that fits along the alternator cover.... i think Medic stated I needed some silicone.. i have some.. i dunno.. total newbie to maintenance ya know.. the rest of ya'll are gurus on this bike... just a beginner here gonna need ya'll to hold my hand.

u see that one screw location... kinda fubarred it up a bit trying to drill out the old screw.. so tomorrow I gotta run home and we are auditioning another vocalist for the band(s)..... just a shitshow with vocalists... it's always them. wtf.. foxtrotter don't know what he's got but foxtrot him,..... ya knjow.... anyways...

spend couple hours cleaning up.. need to make sure gasket on alternator cover is clean on bike side.. gonna do that. trying to degrease that area under bike spraying degreaser and cleaning up dirt and grime and grease on underside of bike around there....

u see that seal or gasket thing? yeah i am replacing those 2 screws that hold on the circle cover of the alternator cover.. some paint got stripped off while cleaning too.... had a few cocktails here by now.. just finished watching a move netflix with kevin bacon.... vigilante flick.... not bad.. i recommend it.

so can i replace that seal (gasket)? i'll look boats.net and see if i can find it.. should replace it i'm assuming....

anyone replace stator and run those new stator wires thru that rubber plug thing?

slowly but surely..... thanks fellas. one of many projects to come thru fall/winter months here so .. cheers and gnite.
 

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Sometimes it's worth paying a machine shop to get that out. If you go off center, it becomes a project to fix and a new cover becomes cheaper than a fix. Those buggers break easy. Heat is your friend getting them out, as well as a hand impact tool.
 
Sometimes it's worth paying a machine shop to get that out. If you go off center, it becomes a project to fix and a new cover becomes cheaper than a fix. Those buggers break easy. Heat is your friend getting them out, as well as a hand impact tool.

yeah, lesson learned, note taken. That engine casing is aluminum, right? so soft metal.... looks like I need to purchase a Tap and Die set and do it like that... honestly that bracket I think would hold without the screw in that location, but whatever... good opportunity to maybe try the Tap and Die thing... invest for future implementations. assuming i'd have to drill out a nice hole though first then try to tap and die without thinning it out too much... and just maybe use one screw that is unique compared to the others... sounds alright maybe..?
 
You'll want to cut it down some, after taking some measurements for the lug height, and fill weld it first. Any decent machine shop should be able to do it for not much more than a decent tap and die. $40-$50. Try thumbtack if it's popular in your area they may have a freelance welder/fabricator available willing to do it on the cheap. Would be your best bet. Seems a bit out of round for any "easy" fixes.
 
Not sure on the specifics of your thread repair. If you can tap it to the next size up and everything fits, that would be suitable.

If not, weld and re-drill and tap. Or, buy a used cover from ebay. I've seen them listed sub $40.

That rubber gasket from under the "circle" as you call it is reusable. If yours is not cracked or distorted, it can be reused. Nothing wrong at all with replacing it if you want.

Note that the "circle" should have had an o-ring on it where it went through the stator cover. Make sure that is in good condition. I'd be more concerned about that, than the rubber gasket.
 
Not sure on the specifics of your thread repair. If you can tap it to the next size up and everything fits, that would be suitable.

If not, weld and re-drill and tap. Or, buy a used cover from ebay. I've seen them listed sub $40.

That rubber gasket from under the "circle" as you call it is reusable. If yours is not cracked or distorted, it can be reused. Nothing wrong at all with replacing it if you want.

Note that the "circle" should have had an o-ring on it where it went through the stator cover. Make sure that is in good condition. I'd be more concerned about that, than the rubber gasket.

thanks fellas.

i'll report back later. oring and gasket good then, i'll re use them. plan on doing my own tap die on a borrowed set. just needs to be good to hold that bracket on with a new stainless screw. nice and tight. forever....wishful thinking? hehe

now when it comes to the rubber plug things thtt wires go through.. well... when I get there i'll report back. til then have a good weekend. i'll be in a tree chillin with George McFly.
 
Clean it with acetone, fill it with jb weld, drill and tap; that stuff has been holding a sight ramp on my .45 for 20 years. And... that thing does some bucking and gets a lot of oil on it.
 
alright cool guys. tahnks for ya'lls input.

i dont think i will have to do much. the aluminum is soft and so I took one of the screws and just screwed it in there a bit. pulled it out and there was fine dust so i'm sure it is threading as it goes. i dont anticipate having to take out the new stator... ever.. so got replacement screws for the whole inside brackets and holding the stator in place, which i had to do anyways. also 2 more for the circle thing on outside. 16 dollars later with some washers... wtf? stainless tho. got one that's a little bit longer for the problem screw hol. maybe some thread lock blue? on there too... should i use thread lock on all the new screws?

anyways thats the skinny on that. going to start putting the stuff back together. dont know what i'm doing. gonna try to match old stator setup and apply to new stator. will need to do wiring once i get things back in place. will def. be on here updating info with pics and questions. thanks for ya'lls help, past present and future.! we got a long way to go with my 85 hey.
 
ok

getting to the stator sitch.

so new stator comes with 3 wires. u see the diagram how i have them labeled with the zip tie count on the old stator. it also has a bracket held on by a screw, which new stator does not come with. figured that part is obsolete.

does one zip tie wire need to be on a specific new stator wire? if so, which one..? same with others.. does the 2 zip tie wire need to be a specific new stator wire? if so, which one?

i assume I'll have to put that rubber plug gasket piece in place, to put back on alternator cover to stop the leaking of oil once installed and filled... so now I am going to slide the plug thing onto the wires. and maintain the zip tie count onthe old stator wires that go correspond with the connector...

new stator came with sheething or whatever it is.. by looking at old stator, i'll put the rubber gasket thing onto new wires, then slide sheething on.

tips or tricks for this part? does a particular old stator wire need to correspond to a particular new stator wire and so on? if so, not sure how to determine.

thnx
 

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The three currant carrying yellow wires are not directional and any combination is fine.
I wanted to mention the possibility of using thread inserts to repair the bad thread. Most Auto Parts stores carry them in popular metric sizes. A kit comes with all you need. The original thread size is kept. E-bay sells kits too. That's my second choice after welding up the hole, milling it and re drilling it. My first choice rivals a used cover in time spent and money.
 
Yes, reuse the old rubber grommet on the three stator wires.

Add some silicone, or RTV, or yamabond to the wires where they pass thru the grommet. Best bet is to leave some wire slack near the stator, then add your silicone, then pull the wire slack thru the grommet. This will help seal it up as the grommet is a common spot for leaks.

You do not have to worry about polarity. Any 3 stator wires can connect to any 3 INPUT wires on rectifier/regulator.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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