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jdeitz1979

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I would like to make my max a little more responsive and would like some opinions.

I have a k&n air filter and the y at the top of the box was modified a little bit to allow more air flow.

Stock carbs, stock needles/jets.
Vboost unplugged.

Stock headers, but do have kirker cans
Which don't have any packing in them.

I know headers will help hugely, but at the moment that's not in my Vmax budget.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I would like to make my max a little more responsive and would like some opinions.

I have a k&n air filter and the y at the top of the box was modified a little bit to allow more air flow.

Stock carbs, stock needles/jets.
Vboost unplugged.

Stock headers, but do have kirker cans
Which don't have any packing in them.

I know headers will help hugely, but at the moment that's not in my Vmax budget.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So you do know that you are leaving some HP on the table thru the midrange by having the Vboost open all the time?

http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/tboost.htm

So right now, I would say go 1 step, MAYBE 2 steps leaner on the main jets. The stock jetting 152.5's are just a little bit rich from the factory, so drop down to 150's, MAYBE 147.5's on the main jets.

So, swap to the 150 mains, and see how the bike runs.

If your feeling adventurous, get into the carbs and check the float levels.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=1427

So set them at 1.125 dry, which will equal a wet float level height of 17 mm. This will matter a LOT as far as how the bike will respond.
 

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So you do know that you are leaving some HP on the table thru the midrange by having the Vboost open all the time?



http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/tboost.htm



So right now, I would say go 1 step, MAYBE 2 steps leaner on the main jets. The stock jetting 152.5's are just a little bit rich from the factory, so drop down to 150's, MAYBE 147.5's on the main jets.



So, swap to the 150 mains, and see how the bike runs.



If your feeling adventurous, get into the carbs and check the float levels.



http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=1427



So set them at 1.125 dry, which will equal a wet float level height of 17 mm. This will matter a LOT as far as how the bike will respond.



I wasn't aware of leaving hp on the table with vboost unplugged. I forgot to put in on that line of info that if is fully opened and unplugged.

I also looked into the 150 mains as well but can't seem to locate genuine mikuni mains. Or maybe they can be any brand?

I'm on stock needle, so I don't have any adjustment there, due to my bike not being Canada version. Which leads to another question I had as well, if I go up a needle size do I need to replace the needle seat as well?


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No....you would keep the same settings in the needles. For 150s which is going DOWN 1 jet size....you can get those from Sean Morley. That's where I get all of my jets from. His email is [email protected]

Email is the best way to get him.

Now if you ever do an aftermarket exhaust....you can always put a small shim on the needle.



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No....you would keep the same settings in the needles. For 150s which is going DOWN 1 jet size....you can get those from Sean Morley. That's where I get all of my jets from. His email is [email protected]

Email is the best way to get him.

Now if you ever do an aftermarket exhaust....you can always put a small shim on the needle.



Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk



Ok, that's good. I seen that other brands were pretty cheap so I'm sure they aren't expensive. And I just took a look at my jets, and can't get a good pic but on one half there is a r followed by a box with small box in bottom left corner, and on the other half is 170. This can't be right??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ok, that's good. I seen that other brands were pretty cheap so I'm sure they aren't expensive. And I just took a look at my jets, and can't get a good pic but on one half there is a r followed by a box with small box in bottom left corner, and on the other half is 170. This can't be right??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is this the main jet, which is at the bottom of the carbs (to remove them you have to turn the carbs over and remove the 10 MM brass plug, or is this on the side of the carb, just under the diaphragm cover?

!50's for the main jets, 170s for that just under the diaphragm cover on the side of the carb. Also know as PAJ#2, primary air jet #2. The air jet on the top of the carb, should be a 90 (or 100 if you have a CA bike)

Here is a neat trick to do if your eyesight isnt what it should be. You can take you phone, turn the camera on, and ZOOM in, to see what the jet size is.
 

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Ok, that's good. I seen that other brands were pretty cheap so I'm sure they aren't expensive. And I just took a look at my jets, and can't get a good pic but on one half there is a r followed by a box with small box in bottom left corner, and on the other half is 170. This can't be right??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The box inside the larger box is the stamp design made by mikuni--:clapping:
 
Is this the main jet, which is at the bottom of the carbs (to remove them you have to turn the carbs over and remove the 10 MM brass plug, or is this on the side of the carb, just under the diaphragm cover?



!50's for the main jets, 170s for that just under the diaphragm cover on the side of the carb. Also know as PAJ#2, primary air jet #2. The air jet on the top of the carb, should be a 90 (or 100 if you have a CA bike)



Here is a neat trick to do if your eyesight isnt what it should be. You can take you phone, turn the camera on, and ZOOM in, to see what the jet size is.



Yes I was referring to the paj#2.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The box inside the larger box is the stamp design made by mikuni--:clapping:



Thanks. [emoji23]Was a entertaining description to say the least , had to describe it how I seen it but had no idea it was mikuni stamp. Pretty good to know.


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