slave cylinder clutch change

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Born2Ride

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Hello, around almost an year ago when I bought my Vmax, when I got home with the motorcycle I noticed a small beautiful oil leak dripping from the pan, as you can see in the picture. I noticed that it leaked only after use for like 2 hours. I noticed also that the clutch master cylinder fluid was going a bit lower compared with the brake cylinder, and then I found out that the leakage came after pulling the clutch. Week after I left the bike for a checkup at a shop and the guy told me that it was the clutch slave cylinder that was leaking, (probably the rubbers inside, he said). I asked him what is the part number of the part to replace and he said 1FK-16381-11-00. The repair cost is now to expansive for me so I really want to try to do this myself, but since I’m not a mechanic or experienced in this matter I would like if possible to have your help or advice with this and perhaps parts if shipping costs are reasonable. To start I got a manual online that I downloaded so I don t know how much I can trust it.
First it says that I should drain the engine oil, I asked it to the mechanic from the shop and he told me that there is no need, I kind of got the feeling that Vmax is not his strong point, could you guys tell me what is correct to replace the slave cylinder?
Than it says to bleed the clutch, ok, but the way it shows on the manual, they bleed by replacing for new fluid at the same time, so I kinda don t know if the line has to be empty or put new fluid? Because I think when I remove the slave cylinder clutch union bolt, fluid will drop, but if master at the top is closed maybe will not drop that much because no air will go in from top, what s the best procedure?
I just want to make sure I do everything 100% and I have all the parts ready and all the info to do it all in one go.
When I remove the middle gear cover, is there a gasket that needs to be replaced?
I would appreciate a lot if you guys could help me here.
 

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I replace slave cylinder last year....

also check your stater and pick up wiring dot 3 / 4 will eat up the wiring casing.

There's a seal kit for the slave cylinder to....

part number
1FK-16381-11-00

Seal kit part number
26H-W0098-00-00
 
Maybe while you do it you can video it so that it can be youtubed or archived for future reference?
 
It is really a walk in the park ! No need to drain oils etc. Yes there is a gasket on the middle gear cover & a crush washer on the bottom bolt which can be reused a lot of times. If you are not comfortable rebuilding it a new one is about 60 bucks. Unless the inside is really pitted bad the it is usually all you need. If you have any questions doing it & want first hand help give me a call 813-270-0000 I may not answer but if you leave a message I usually call back pretty quick.
 
ok, so good to know at least that i dont need to remove the engine oil as it says on that crazy Manual. I prefer to replace the complete cylinder, i dont want to mess arround with the inside of it. I can think of a movie, although not very confortable when doing it for the first time, but i will try.
So in order to go for the "walk in the park" i will need as parts:
- the slave cylinder
- middle gear cover gasket
- bonch of copper sealing washers, no idea which sizes or if some spacial ones

Let me know if I m missing any parts here.
 
ok, so good to know at least that i dont need to remove the engine oil as it says on that crazy Manual. I prefer to replace the complete cylinder, i dont want to mess arround with the inside of it. I can think of a movie, although not very confortable when doing it for the first time, but i will try.
So in order to go for the "walk in the park" i will need as parts:
- the slave cylinder
- middle gear cover gasket
- bonch of copper sealing washers, no idea which sizes or if some spacial ones

Let me know if I m missing any parts here.

Yep that is it there is only 1 sealing washer on the bottom bolt the rest don't need them. You will lose a little oil buy not much.
 
Yep that is it there is only 1 sealing washer on the bottom bolt the rest don't need them. You will lose a little oil buy not much.

Captainkyle your the man.....

Plus 1 helping guy's with there bikes.

And another plus 1 for helping me when I 1st bought my vmax. :punk:
 
the bottom bolt, you mean the bolt that connects the line that comes from the upper master cylinder?

You do have crush washers on the line that hooks to the slave sorry I forgot about them you can reuse them most of the time. The bottom bolt I was taling about is the one on the middle gear cover it has one to which is usually reusable to but if your already ordering parts it's only a couple more bucks.
 
ok, that makes it more clear. On the manual it says to discard all the crush sealing washers, but I guess that it a standard procedure.
Just one thing for the details. could you tell the cover gasket part number?
Do you usually apply any product like paste or whatsoever to the gasket or in the cover before closing it?
And when the procedure is finished, beside the air that can get into the line that goes to the master (which I will replace the brake fluid on the line after finish), is there any place inside the new assembled slave cylinder that can make any problem with air?

I know this seems to be a dumb question, but I m really decided to make good job here and since I don t have much experience I need extra attention into the details, the rest will come when I start to work on it and see better how things work, I plan to start to do more of this maintenance things by myself.
 
ok, that makes it more clear. On the manual it says to discard all the crush sealing washers, but I guess that it a standard procedure.
Just one thing for the details. could you tell the cover gasket part number?
Do you usually apply any product like paste or whatsoever to the gasket or in the cover before closing it?
And when the procedure is finished, beside the air that can get into the line that goes to the master (which I will replace the brake fluid on the line after finish), is there any place inside the new assembled slave cylinder that can make any problem with air?

I know this seems to be a dumb question, but I m really decided to make good job here and since I don t have much experience I need extra attention into the details, the rest will come when I start to work on it and see better how things work, I plan to start to do more of this maintenance things by myself.

It is best to replace the crush washers if you ordering parts any way but I have reused them when I had to with no problems. The gasket number is 3JP-15461-01-00 the slave cylinder is 1FK-16381-11-00 the crush washer are 2 of these 90201-10118-00 and 1 of these 90430-06014-00

I don't use any extra sealant on the gasket. As far as air it can take a while to get it out sometimes. I have an air bleeder because I do it so often but the easiest way for you would probably be able to reverse bleed it with a big siringe
 
thanks a lot for the help, I will now see where I can get the parts and hope I will not need any more help. I will let you guys know how it went as soon as I do it.
 
Hi guys, I mean doing this right, I ended up changing only the seal rubbers.
but now I removed already and cleaned the inside of the slave cylinder, but now how do I replace the inside rubber? The one I'm bending with my finger. The other metal parts seems to not able to separate them. How do I do now?
 
I started this today, but i didn t have more time to finish it.
Its been easy so far, exept on that moment of stupidity with the piston rubber, i was affraid that i could brake or damage the rubber...
But everything is well cleaned and i placed the slave in the place so i could leave the line that goes up closed for overnight.
There is only one thing that i didn t know how to do, which is, i got the round plastic part together with the set, the oil seal, but i coudnt find a way to remove it from that difficult access place.
What is the best way to replace the oil seal?
Should i be concern if i don t change it?
 

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.....but i coudnt find a way to remove it from that difficult access place.
What is the best way to replace the oil seal?
Should i be concern if i don t change it?

If you look at the replacement seal you will feel that it is moulded around a metal cup.
The way to get it out would be to drill through the end of the cup then insert a self tapping screw into the hole. Use pliers to pull the seal out. Pull out the push-rod first and stop drilling as soon as you go through the metal part of the seal. Check for and remove any debris in the seal rebate.
To replace wipe a small amount of silicon sealer around the outer edge of the seal and line it up into the rebate. Use a suitably sized socket (one that is just smaller than the max diameter of the seal) on a extension and using a hammer gently tap it in. Ensure that it goes in square.
You would only replace if it is leaking, if not keep it as a spare.
 
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