Engine paint VS Caliper paint

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NHVmaxpower

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:bang head:Ok everyone I have some questions. I been looking to paint my engine & was wondering who uses what? It seems that brake caliper paint & engine paint are the same both rated for extreme heat. I want a nice gloss from the paint also being on a budget limits me ( some used the 2k 2 part epoxy) . The engine is all degreased scuffed wiped ready to spray. So what do you all use ?.
Also I was going to have my lower fork tubes & triple trees powder coated again that can get expensive so I am wondering what I can use on them for paint thats tuff enough also want to touch up my frame. I heard people use appliance epoxy paint & has a great shine & very durable so I looked it up & seems its not uv rated so I am guessing it will fade after a few months? What ever paint I use I will be puting a clear coat over them unless I use a paint that may not need a clear coat. Any suggestions are welcome & would love some feed back.
Thanks in advance
 
We use automotive paint on everything. It's durable, holds a shine, and not too thick. We do cure the paint though in a heated paint booth a 180 degrees. You can simulate this with a heat lamp or spotlight but use a radar gun to let you know how to set the lights to get the temps correct.
 
I've had good luck with Duplicolor brand, specifically the "High heat with Ceramic" lineup. Supposedly good for 500 degrees C. Available in many colors, including three black - flat, low-gloss, and gloss. I painted the stock pumpkin (as well as the swingarm) with the low-gloss at least six years ago, and just checked it out closely a few days ago, when I changed to a Venture rear end. The paint was still in perfect shape, no chips or flaws. Naturally, the new pumpkin has been coated with the same paint.
For body parts paint, if doing it myself (there is NO substitute for professionally-applied paint, in a proper shop with the right equipment), I go to an auto body supply shop and have them load up "spray bombs" with the color and type of automotive paint desired. With practice, you can get very good results - light coat initially, 50% overlap on following coats, etc. The major difference between the spray bombs and regular paint is that the bombs don't contain any hardener. If you want to rub out the paint, you have to wait a few weeks till it hardens completely.
I painted the inner hubs of both wheels with spray bombs, at the same time as the stock pumpkin. Besides a few rock chips, the paint has lasted very well. No peeling whatsoever.
Whether using rattle-cans or spray bombs, I always use a compatible primer first, after cleaning the part with a suitable solvent.
Good luck!
 
Given that you don't have the finances to go with a 2K paint then yes, the paint out of a can will do the job.
The essential point is to get the base metal grease free - you don't need to get all of the old paint off but feather the edges wherever possible.

To reduce the likelihood of chipping then only put sufficient paint on to cover the substrate.

I have used VHT products to great effect and they have stayed in good nick over many years.
The gloss does not need a lacquer coat and (IMHO) does little to enhance the effect whilst increasing the chance of stone chipping.
 
for the forks i would suggest krylon appliance enamel. it is very durable, i have used it on many things.
 
My eastwood ceramic engine paint is nice and glossy and 10k miles later still glossy and only a couple tiny chips... from tools! No bubbling from antifreeze, oil, or gas! Just remember paint will only stick as well as the paint underneath it. So if you rattle can now in the future if you want a 2part job it would be better to remove rattle can paint..

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
 
I have used VHT Caliper paint w/ great results super gloss & lays down nice. Prep work is the key to ANY good paint job
 
I second using VHT epoxy paint, surface has to be completely oil free first, I also used the Duplicator ceramic paints on the wheels of my other bikes, again you need to have a clean surface and the ceramic paints require heat curing to make them chemical proof. They also make a high heat clear coat.
 

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