VMAX Newbie asking for input

Hi All!

I have a 2001 VMAX that's completely stock, a little over 17,000 miles; however,
I had it virtually restored this summer with new braided steel brake lines, new EBC brakes, new clutches, complete (and expensive!) carb re-builds, new (stock) exhaust, transmission service, complete tune-up as well as having the fenders, wheels and air box cover professionally painted and some pieces chromed......and right now it's in a friend's shop for some powder coating work of some pieces that are looking a little worn. It looking pretty great but now want to turn to increasing performance.

Now that winter is here and the bike is going into storage and the sled is coming out (800 Ski-Doo) I'm looking towards spring and what I can do to add a little performance to the bike.

Been reading about the V-Boost kits and admit being a bit confused by all the opinions out there.

This sounds like the way to go for some more kick......So, what kit do you all recommend. This Stage 7 kit that I read about? Where do you get that? What else has to be done when installing this? It seems that the mixture gets real rich and it certainly needs to be re-jetted......any recommendations for jet size?

How about a K+N filter for more air to offset the richer mixture? After spending considerable money on the new stock exhaust, I'm really not interested in dropping more money on another exhaust system to get more airflow though I recognize that I choking it some by not going to some after-market exhaust.

Thanks so much for your time in trying to help me out!

Newklear

The K&N filter that replaces the OEM filter will not give you a performance gain. Maybe in other applications but, not the vmax. The only upside to the K&N is that it is reusable.

A stage 7 jet kit can be purchased from Sean Morley. There are other vendors but Sean's pricing is reasonable and he offers great product support. DO NOT buy a stage 7 jet kit if you don't want to buy an aftermarket exhaust system. The motor cannot take advantage of the jet kit without exhaust.

Sean Morley also sell his own jet kit. The "muscle jet kit". It works well. Top end performance it on par with the stage 7 kit. Mid range is a bit better with Seans kit. You keep the stock air box and he will provide you with a custom lid that is modified for a large K&N panel filter. Once again, DO NOT buy this jet kit if you don't want to buy an aftermarket exhaust.

If you decide to go for an exhaust and jet kit, check out the carb forum. There is a sticky thread in there where a lot of us share our carb setups. That should get you in the ball park depending on what components you are using.

Newklear said:

How about a K+N filter for more air to offset the richer mixture?

Newklear

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I'm not sure if I'm clear on your question here. It seems like you may be under the impression that if you buy a stage 7 jet kit, you can put a drop in K&N filter in the bike to help lean it out?

The complete stage 7 jet kit includes 4 pod style air filters. The stock air box is removed.

The muscle jet kit comes with an air filter also.

As previously noted, do not buy a stg7 or muscle jet kit without aftermarket exhaust. You will not gain HP, you will only gain tuning issues.

A good running stock bike typically dyno's between 105-115HP. Adding a jet kit and aftermarket exhaust will typically get you up into the 120's.

Welcome Newklear. The carb. kits and V-boost kits aren't for you if your keeping the stock exhaust. But, jetting down some on the mains (150's or 147.5's) next time your in the carbs. for a cleaning would be helpful. Radial tires and suspension upgrades will transform your ride. I'd put the v-boost kit and K&N filter money toward nice rear shocks, and better fork springs. There is an RC rear wheel that won't change the look and allow radial tire use. HH front brake pads make a big difference too.
As you've seen in post, serious engine performance starts with a full exhaust system.
Steve-o

lol, Mike beat me to it.

Excellent responses, guys! Greatly appreciated!

I read Jon Cornell's article on the whole issue and it says exactly what you're all saying, that is, if I don't replace the stock exhaust (that I just bought this spring! Bonehead move if there ever was one!) then there is no point in doing the carb kits and V-boost mods.....I understand now. Thanks so much! You are all clarifying the issue for me perfectly.

I just put new Qualifiers on the wheels so I'm not interested in replacing that rubber just yet. Perhaps some nice rear shocks would be a good next step.....any recommendations there?

Also, I HATE the seat! My butt is hurting after thirty minutes or so....what are you guys using? I've read about Corbin's but some are saying that the MAXGASSER seat is better......????? What say you?????

P.S. I also put a steering dampner on.....love that!

Newklear said:

Excellent responses, guys! Greatly appreciated!

I read Jon Cornell's article on the whole issue and it says exactly what you're all saying, that is, if I don't replace the stock exhaust (that I just bought this spring! Bonehead move if there ever was one!) then there is no point in doing the carb kits and V-boost mods.....I understand now. Thanks so much! You are all clarifying the issue for me perfectly.

I just put new Qualifiers on the wheels so I'm not interested in replacing that rubber just yet. Perhaps some nice rear shocks would be a good next step.....any recommendations there?

Also, I HATE the seat! My butt is hurting after thirty minutes or so....what are you guys using? I've read about Corbin's but some are saying that the MAXGASSER seat is better......????? What say you?????

P.S. I also put a steering dampner on.....love that!

Click to expand...

Not really, a good running stock VMax is not the easiest bike to pass....Yamaha did a right nice job setting these things up, just because they're quiet doesn't mean they're pushovers. unk: :biglaugh:

Welcome to the forum.

Wear-out the rear, and use that as an excuse to go radials. It's my #1 choice of "how to transform your bike." Better steering, better braking, better cornering, less shimmy from the front-end, better sex... most of this is true.

The Dynojet Stage 7 carb kit or Morley's Muscle carb kit w/a good aftermarket exhaust, tuned correctly will increase your performance by probably 10% or a bit-more. 120 +RWHP is a good output for something designed and manufactured in the early 1980's (despite the fact it was produced until 2007, virtually-unchanged). When it was released, it was King of the Hill. Like other performance icons when they were released, it serves as a reminder of "what-was," though the contemporary vehicles may out-perform it on all fronts, save-one. That's the time it was at the top of the heap, and for people of a certain age or those who revere those performance icons, it is "The One." For them, every-time they get-on the bike, it reminds them of that time in their lives when it was new, they were young, and anything seemed possible. A-body GM cars w/421's, 454's or 455's, Gen II Corvettes w/427 Tri-Power, Chryslers w/426 Hemi's, Ford Super Duty Cobra Jets w/Drag Paks, those are the cars usually compared to the VMax. But the VMax is balls-to-the-wall quicker and faster than any of those, in stock condition. Sure, send it to Kar Kraft, Holman & Moody, Smokey Yunick, Royal Bobcat, TRACO, and any of the other premier tuners and modifiers of those vintage American iron, and they will make even-more HP than they did stock (some of those guys are tuning in the Great Garage in the Sky). Indeed, those same tuners often had a hand in the design and/or manufacture of these beasts which distinguished themselves on the roads, race tracks and dragstrips of America and the world. And the VMax with a similar amount of attention, will howl at the moon and far-exceed its original performance parameters. Built for 22 years, that's nearly 1/3 of the time that has elapsed since a motorcycle with one-half the VMax's horsepower was the world's fastest and most-desirable motorcycle. The Vincent Black Shadow, a legend then, the Yamaha VMax, a legend now. You didn't buy an old bike, you bought a piece of motorcycling history.

Preach on reverend!!!! Can i get a hallelujah?!

Amen brother!!.............unk:..............Tom.

As for a Seat, there are pleny of aftermarket seat makers:
Sean Morley's (one2dmax) Muscle seat and Rick's (twistedmax) Maxgasser seat are 2 very popular choices (there are a few others also) and either is way better than the stock seat.
I reshaped and re-padded my stock seat myself 11 years ago because I needed it slimmer on the sides and added some extra padding on top (I'm 6'1" and slender).
I'm still happy with it.
This guide is pretty good for giving you the basic idea:
http://www.diymotorcycleseat.com/modify_3.htm

I'd also Highly recommend Progressive or Racetech fork springs.
I installed Progressive springs a few years ago and the difference is amazing.
Frame Braces also remove a lot of the frame flex from a Max and are a great upgrade if you ride a lot of curvy roads.

And as FM said, Radials tires and better (progressive 412, 430, 440 or 444) rear shocks also make a huge difference.
If you don't want to spend the money on New rims for Radials, at least plan on getter better BIAS tires like Shinko Tour Master 230's, Michelin Commander II's, Bridgestone Exedra Max's or Mezteler ME880's.
Any of those are MUCH better than the OEM Bridgestone or Dunlop tires.

Just my $0.02, but Fire-Medic is correct is stating that the radials will be the #1 improvement you can make. I know because I upgraded the forks, the rear shocks and the brakes prior to the radials going on...while those mods helped, they in no way made the same level of difference radials made to the overall handling/ride of the bike. While expensive (unless you get lucky & find used), the radial conversion allows you to better use the power the bike already makes.

As for the seat...I have a Corbin, some don't like the look/feel, but it works for me & you can find an earlier version (gas tank flap) in excellent condition pretty cheap...

In my opinion most everything on the bike stock is quite adequate with the exception of the fork springs and the seat so personally I'd start there. I love my progressive fork springs (no air) and I sent my seat to Sean Morley and had him do a full cut and its a world of difference! Those two mods you'll notice big time and won't break the bank, I actually liked my stock rear shocks just fine but I needed shorter ones to achieve the ride height I wanted and for clearance purposes (nitrous bottle between tire and gas tank) but before I stretched my bike my factory shocks worked well. Probably the next thing would be tires, if you get a good deal on a used 18" rear rim (don't care for the looks and extra rpm's of a 17") then I'd try to go radials as was mentioned but if not a good set of Shinko's or Metz bias tires will help a ton and not break the bank. After that I'd look into braided lines for your brakes and some good pads (Sean can hook you up there too) because stopping is even more important than going. Just my $.02

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Just reread and seen you already have the brake goodies so smart thinking! When your tires wear out I'd get some Shinko's or Metz and keep your eyes open for a used 18" rear wheel for an eventual radial swap but in the meantime a nice seat (lots of guys like the maxgasser but Sean's seat rocks too) and some progressive springs will really help.

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I have had both versions of the Corbin and also a SportMax cut down seat on my Maxes. The second gen plug style Corbin is the best in my opinion. The design enables you to get to the gas cap without having to remove any luggage on the passenger seat (tail bag, etc). The first gen flap style is very difficult to get to with the modern gas pump nozzles. You can add an extension to fix this but still have the problem of moving luggage. I hated the cut down seat. It came up into the crotch and was very uncomfortable to me. In fact it was almost painful when driving any distance. I have used Corbin seats for 20 years or so on several bikes. On long trips they give great support with no problems. The main problem is they splay your legs so if you are short legged, your reach to the ground may be impaired.

Haven't tried the Maxgasser because of using tail bags all the time but if you don't use the passenger seat for luggage, it has a great reputation for comfort.

Sean makes a cut down seat that can be customized to your spec that also looks great. Keeps a more stock look but fixes the crappy stock seat. Also can be cut to not mash your privates.

This is just my opinion after using the seats mentioned. I have taken several 3500 mile trips in 7 days on the Corbin though with no problems or soreness or hot spots.

Newklear said:

Excellent responses, guys! Greatly appreciated!


Also, I HATE the seat! My butt is hurting after thirty minutes or so....what are you guys using? I've read about Corbin's but some are saying that the MAXGASSER seat is better......????? What say you?????that!

Click to expand...

I chopped mine up with a knife, layer down a firmer mixed rubber stuff from the hotrod shop. Tuck and nip, recover, fuckin beauty.
For everything else there's MasterCard.

If you decide to go DJ stg7 i have a brand new set of jets and springs for sale, just don't have the individual filters and the crank breather tube...

Thanks again, all.....I'm having my store look into the progressive front springs for me and am researching the seats......those two things seem to be next on my list.

Based on everyone's comments, I've decided to drop the idea of the Stage 7 stuff as I don't want to replace the stock exhaust right now as I just replaced the old, beat up exhaust with a new one. Have to wait on that a while.

What do you think of the PLANETVMAX swing arm?

Can't tell you much about their arms but many guys on here can tell you about ours!

Sean