My Vmax performing like a 500cc

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Just my $.02 in..
If you have a Harbor Freight near you, this is great for cleaning your carb parts and body, and you can use it for many other cleaning situations, other than the bike.

http://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-95563.html

I cleaned my carbs 6 times the conventional way (I thought I did a good job).
1st bath, solution started out crystal clear, ended up looking like mud.. It removed shit, that scrubbing couldn't get clean.

Just something to consider.
Good luck with the repair.

I will consider that... didnt know those types of cleaners existed... what else does a guy use it for? Also, can you put plastic in there, rubber, etc? I did a little research, what have you learned with your experience?
 
Alright, so let's compile the list...

- 1 small diaphragm ( I can't find the part number on Ron Ayers, but it is number 13 on Partzilla)

- 4 new Fuel Air Mixture Screw assemblies (actually all I NEED is 2 screws, and all 4 orings, but new springs might be good, some of them were kinda rusted a bit....)

- 1 starter lever set screw ( I think it's called )

- 1 O-ring for the 3-way intersection piece off of Carb #2 (can't find part no.)

- rubber stoppers, probably should get for all jet blocks. They aren't fitting very tight at all.

-Orings recommended to replace for all, in each carb. These I can maybe afford, so let's figure those out. But, the Oring located by the FAM screw all look real good.... I'm asking here, whats the difference between a great lookin Oring and a new one?

- need to repair 2 diaphragms or replace

- recommended to do float bowl gasket, mine are all in good shape though, cleaned up, not flattened....some of you guys say re-use...others replace, if it comes down to money, I'll re-use. $11 bucks for that Oring.. LOL! omg forget it.

-recommended to replace jet block gasket and also enrichener gasket (choke? not sure on my terminology, the piece on exterior of carb that has gasket..) again, mine are all in good shape. took them all off without losing any part or sticking.... what works good is to shoot carb cleaner underneath as you peel it up, comes right off. looks like on partzilla, I'll pay 15 bucks for those 2 gaskets. OMG, forget it.....

- want to make sure clip is in correct spot on slide needle... what do you all recommend? I have a plastic piece that goes on, then the clip, then a small washer, then a slightly larger washer.... pictured earlier...Blaxmax coughed up his setting a few replies earlier than this....

- need to ascertain location of jets, cuz I dont remember where I pulled them out of (just the three that look alike). If in manual, I can find it there when I re-assemble this thing. I saw I have a 150, 160, ???, and another without numbers (I think this was the small hole one). also saw a 37.5 or something, can't recall.

-various stainless screws, particularily for jet block. working on eventually having all stainless machine head screws for entire carb, except for the special ones I can't replace at Ace Hardware. Each one is about $1. What does that make, about $16 bucks each carb?

-
 
Alright, so let's compile the list...

- 1 small diaphragm ( I can't find the part number on Ron Ayers, but it is number 13 on Partzilla)

- 4 new Fuel Air Mixture Screw assemblies (actually all I NEED is 2 screws, and all 4 orings, but new springs might be good, some of them were kinda rusted a bit....)

- 1 starter lever set screw ( I think it's called )

- 1 O-ring for the 3-way intersection piece off of Carb #2 (can't find part no.)

- rubber stoppers, probably should get for all jet blocks. They aren't fitting very tight at all.

-Orings recommended to replace for all, in each carb. These I can maybe afford, so let's figure those out. But, the Oring located by the FAM screw all look real good.... I'm asking here, whats the difference between a great lookin Oring and a new one?

- need to repair 2 diaphragms or replace

- recommended to do float bowl gasket, mine are all in good shape though, cleaned up, not flattened....some of you guys say re-use...others replace, if it comes down to money, I'll re-use. $11 bucks for that Oring.. LOL! omg forget it.

-recommended to replace jet block gasket and also enrichener gasket (choke? not sure on my terminology, the piece on exterior of carb that has gasket..) again, mine are all in good shape. took them all off without losing any part or sticking.... what works good is to shoot carb cleaner underneath as you peel it up, comes right off. looks like on partzilla, I'll pay 15 bucks for those 2 gaskets. OMG, forget it.....

- want to make sure clip is in correct spot on slide needle... what do you all recommend? I have a plastic piece that goes on, then the clip, then a small washer, then a slightly larger washer.... pictured earlier...Blaxmax coughed up his setting a few replies earlier than this....

- need to ascertain location of jets, cuz I dont remember where I pulled them out of (just the three that look alike). If in manual, I can find it there when I re-assemble this thing. I saw I have a 150, 160, ???, and another without numbers (I think this was the small hole one). also saw a 37.5 or something, can't recall.

-various stainless screws, particularily for jet block. working on eventually having all stainless machine head screws for entire carb, except for the special ones I can't replace at Ace Hardware. Each one is about $1. What does that make, about $16 bucks each carb?

-

Have you tried boats.net for the part numbers?
You answered your own question about o-ring replacement in you next line-not flattened---Yours are probably good enough. Replace the diaphragms as repairing won't last long. O-Bowl gaskets are probably good enough to reuse also.
The smaller washer on the needle is a 1/2 step (of a groove) and is on top for storage. If the jetblock gaskets are not torn or cracked ok to reuse those. Also don't spray carb cleaner on any gasket or o-ring as they will shrink.
I would go with needle clip 1st from blunt end with the smaller washer under the clip for raising a 1/2 step.
You a/f mixture will go o-ring 1st-washer-spring- a/f needle.
The threaded screw with the o-ring attached is your drain screw (#40 and 41)going out side the carb body.
As far as your jets the 37.5 pilot jet goes in the jetblock with the smaller rubber plug on top. Main bleed pipe goes in the larger hole in the jetblock.
The nozzle goes through the larger jetblock hole.
The threaded nut with the gasket goes on the largest hole over the jetblock-#28 with 29 washer attached.
Main jet is #46 that goes at the small end of the jetblock-angled.No washer.
Be careful of the length of the bolts that you are putting on the carbs (16) as too long will crack the carb bodies.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1997/V-MAX 1200 - VMX12J/CARBURETOR/parts.html
 
Look at pic # 3 of 7 on page 40 for reference of jet placement and also the allen head screw in the jetblock is not stock.
 
Look at pic # 3 of 7 on page 40 for reference of jet placement and also the allen head screw in the jetblock is not stock.

Hey man, can you clarify what you mean Pic 3 of 7 on page 40...of that manual?

Update, I purchased one of the Harbor Freight Ultrasonic cleaners and some Simple Green. That stuff is cheap and seems to works well on cutting grease, at least the pans for my smoker..

Anyways, I am ordering parts soon, gonna be about $150 bucks. I will start cleaning things with ultrasonic, and have them all ready to go for the rebuild part. Ill be asking questions so be ready...
 
Hey man, can you clarify what you mean Pic 3 of 7 on page 40...of that manual?

Update, I purchased one of the Harbor Freight Ultrasonic cleaners and some Simple Green. That stuff is cheap and seems to works well on cutting grease, at least the pans for my smoker..

Anyways, I am ordering parts soon, gonna be about $150 bucks. I will start cleaning things with ultrasonic, and have them all ready to go for the rebuild part. Ill be asking questions so be ready...
Go to page 4 of this thread-look at the last reply on the page #40-look at the 3rd pic of the 7 pics.
I use simple green all the time myself.
 
Go to page 4 of this thread-look at the last reply on the page #40-look at the 3rd pic of the 7 pics.
I use simple green all the time myself.

cool thanks. gonna start cleaning tonight.

hey what's the oring called on pic 9 of ten of reply #39, the one that goes around the triple split (for fuel lines?..)?
 
Other than bike parts, you can clean jewelry, machine parts, just about anything that can fit in there. Plastic, Rubber, metal, you can clean just about anything. I used Simple Green and filtered water, 50/50 mix.. I would definitely look at all rubber parts for age issues,, simply because rubber degrades on it own. Good luck with the work..
 
Other than bike parts, you can clean jewelry, machine parts, just about anything that can fit in there. Plastic, Rubber, metal, you can clean just about anything. I used Simple Green and filtered water, 50/50 mix.. I would definitely look at all rubber parts for age issues,, simply because rubber degrades on it own. Good luck with the work..

Thanks man. yeah I am replacing the gaskets, most orings, one fuel bowl oring (the others look alright enough....:ummm:) all rubber plugs on jet block, all A/FM screw assemblies,, one main bleed in jet block cuz it's kinda hacked up and one smaller jet in the jet block....replacing some more screws with machine head S/S, still got some more to replace on that realm...

got everything cleaned up, didnt do 50/50 so next time, but I had already cleaned everything up with carb cleaning soak and scrubbed, before I got the Ultrasonic...so it should be pretty damn clean by now...

big thing will be putting everything back. some parts are mixed up a bit, BUT i'm sure you guys could grab a part and know exactly where it goes, so that's the goal for me this time. After this I'll be hittin ya'll up on other things I gotta fix.

Question, i pulled the rack out, of course, and didnt exactly "close up" the fuel line, for lack of better term, so will that gas be bad now? i dont wanna clog up the carbs again with crappy gas.. it's been open (vented?) for several weeks now...should I drain it all out and put in new gas?
how does a guy drain it out, if that's what ya'll recommend?

I got parts ordered from boats.net, but forgot to include the float bowl oring, and one main bleed valve..gotta get those too now, and pay for addt'l shippin..ugh... spent 150 already, WTF???? dangit..

Also, off the top of yo heads, where does the 150 jet go? 160? they look the same size... other than that, most of the rest should be rather self-explanatory.. i hope..

hEY WHAT part number is the screw that tightens the boots on the carb rack?
 
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Looks like I'll be getting my carb parts soon, possibly today.
Time to finally start rebuilding these damn things.
I'll go slow, take a bunch of pics and post them up to make sure I'm doing it right before digging into the next one.

Also, I have 2 diaphragms that have small holes (not completely through), that I patched up with some Elmers Glue All Max glue. I came across a post in another forum where some guy did this to his (larger fix as well) carb for a kawasaki somptin or other, and it has held up very well.

Now, I COULD buy 2 more slides/ diaphragm assemblies, but I can't afford to drop another 200 bucks.

So, is there a chance my glue ( I put glue on both sides of diaphragm) will flake off, etc and clog up my carb and get in there and mess things up?

Also, I COULD also replace just the diaphragms...the sticky here where the guy punches it through, I don't want to do, too risky. There's another vid where the guy grinds down the metal lip on the slide, take off the bad diaphragm, and, what does he do, just glue the new diaphragm in position?

diaphragms are 20 each, and I'd have to invest in a bench grinder (which maybe isn't so bad.... I could use it for other purposes in future).... so...
do I even work on completing this repair til I get those 2 diaphragms replaced?

The godo thing is, access to the slides and diaphragms is no biggie, I can do that once I finish the re-install of the carb rack, ya know?..meaning I could do this later too... I'll have to find that vid..seems like the best way to replace diaphragms without destroying them..

So, thoughts?
 
Thank you Blax!

Now, PAJ2, is that the 150 or 160? They both look like the same size, thread....
Which one is the one that this dude couldn't get out?.... i think he said PAJ2...

"looking at the slide opening - you can see my (very damaged by POs) PAJ2 "
what is a POs?

what number is the PAJ1, or waht number shouild it be? 150 or 160.. i think they are same size... so what's the difference? the size of the hole inside?
 
Thank you Blax!

Now, PAJ2, is that the 150 or 160? They both look like the same size, thread....
Which one is the one that this dude couldn't get out?.... i think he said PAJ2...

"looking at the slide opening - you can see my (very damaged by POs) PAJ2 "
what is a POs?

what number is the PAJ1, or waht number shouild it be? 150 or 160.. i think they are same size... so what's the difference? the size of the hole inside?

PO is Previous Owner--------Yes it is the size of the hole in the jet of course-160 is larger than 150.
Here is your video of the diaphragms------
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84DRVc9J5GQ
 
how do these mount?

the re-assembly was good, but not enough. i took off more parts than he did... and didn't take pictures. my bad there.

i dont know how these pieces go on. help?
 

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how do these mount?

the re-assembly was good, but not enough. i took off more parts than he did... and didn't take pictures. my bad there.

i dont know how these pieces go on. help?

ok i found a pic i took for the wire piece.

but what about the other? did take a pic of that

ok found a pic.. shares 2 screws with the small diaphragm..air thing. what carb though?
 

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