Would like some opinions on torque wrenches

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I use to work for a motorcycle shop (built and worked on bikes) when I lived on the west coast.

The torque wrenches I loved were split-beam style wrenches.

It used the beam style ( which I use today for lug nuts and axle bolts ) and combined it with the clicker style. You basically got a best of both worlds torque wrench that doesn't lose calibration.

Seriously, we had one that was probably over 10 years old and was used every week that was never out of spec. Didn't have to get it recalibrated ever.

The company that makes them makes the Mac Tools rebranded as well.

They are Precision Instruments brand.

Here is the

1/2 in version
http://amzn.to/2oQnSYc

3/8
http://amzn.to/2qjVlKQ

I swore there was a 1/4 version but I cannot seem to find it. I personally just have a crappy craftsman click style but boy I never used it when I could use the shop tools.
 
I also have regular beam style which I like for some things as well. I'll generally use the regular beams style on lug nuts, and smaller torque bolts.
 
A good used one over any HF any day. The smaller the interval the more accurate it is. If the wrench looks in good condition it should be good, it doesn't break if you overtight right?

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 
After doing a lot of research I decided on this one,

TEKTON 24320 1/4-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (20-200 in.-lb./2.26-22.6 Nm)


The reason is I will use it very little and it was the best for the buck I could find. I know there are many better ones but I decided to go with this one.
 
For occasional use and non-engine building that one should serve you just fine.

After reading a lot about that brand I thought the same, for as little work I do on my Vmax that requires torquing, I felt this one was the best choice. If I was to dig into the engine ( I doubt ) if I did I would buy a snap on in a heartbeat.
 
After reading a lot about that brand I thought the same, for as little work I do on my Vmax that requires torquing, I felt this one was the best choice. If I was to dig into the engine ( I doubt ) if I did I would buy a snap on in a heartbeat.

I got the torque wrench today, the closest reading to 10 Nm is 10.7 so if I dial back from 0 on 10.7 to 7 on the dial ring would that be 10 Nm ?
Thanks
 
If you can still feel resistance on the spring,probably.Wind it down,see how far it goes until it goes really slack.But don't take my word for it.

I'll snug it up and then try my new torque wrench and see if it clicks at 10Nm, I'll take it easy. I appreciate your suggestion. !!
 
Tighten one to two flats past point of sharp torque rise.....anyone who's been to Ft. Rucker knows what I'm talking about!
 
The one I have doesn't and the 2ft one I doubt measures Nm That was why I asked for a good torque wrench, now I wonder if torquing is good or bad for the oil bolt like 1FK00 said in his post.

?????????

Neither good or bad, just unnecessary. In fifty years of turning wrenches I have never used a torque wrench on a drain plug and also never had a leak. But sure have sweared at the last guy who over tightened it.
 
Neither good or bad, just unnecessary. In fifty years of turning wrenches I have never used a torque wrench on a drain plug and also never had a leak. But sure have sweared at the last guy who over tightened it.

One thing for sure is there are a lot if opinions on using torque wrenches. I think I will snug it up. Then I will check it before each time I ride it and if I have any leaks I will get a new crush washer and torque it.

I understand that experience is worth a lot by why the hell do the service manuals say to torque?

I'm made it clear I am no mechanic so I have to rely on advice or the service manual when they conflict it confuses the hell out of me.
 
I got the torque wrench today, the closest reading to 10 Nm is 10.7 so if I dial back from 0 on 10.7 to 7 on the dial ring would that be 10 Nm ?
Thanks

I believe if you read instructions you may find a warning not to use below lowest setting. At least that was on all my snap-on torque wrenches. I had three, 1/2 inch, 3/8 inch and a 1/4 inch. A .7 NM will not make any difference, at least not break the drain plug. Unless you are the size of a professional football player, not using a 1/2 inch breaker bar and both feet braced on the rear tire there is not much chance of breaking the drain plug.
 
I believe if you read instructions you may find a warning not to use below lowest setting. At least that was on all my snap-on torque wrenches. I had three, 1/2 inch, 3/8 inch and a 1/4 inch. A .7 NM will not make any difference, at least not break the drain plug. Unless you are the size of a professional football player, not using a 1/2 inch breaker bar and both feet braced on the rear tire there is not much chance of breaking the drain plug.

I played for the Patriots for 10 years and hold the deadlift record for the world....LOL, but with that BS said I think I will snug it up and give it a short twist of the wrench and check it often for leaks. I've broken bolts before and it caused me a lot of problems so I like to be sure before I work on my Vmax. "I am no mechanic"
 
I've been told that I go on and on with my post, this one was mentioned. The reason this post went on and on was there were so many conflicting suggestions. and I wanted to address everyone.
 
I was working on a guys bike about a year ago. That damn oil plug was the tightest fastener I have ever removed. I had a 1/2 inch drive socket with a breaker bar and a cheater pipe. It would NOT move. I finally got it by tipping the bike over gar enough to get an air impact wrench on it, and it still was a bitch. I think King Kong must have tightened it.
 

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