Adventures with Powdercoating

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bazwell

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I think it would be a good idea for us to have a thread for our adventures in the world of powdercoat. A place where we can document the colours and products we used, and the results we get.

I'll kick it off with my side covers.

I got a good set of 85 side covers off a bike that had been sitting for a while.
They had bubbling under the coating, kind of like how chrome bubbles up.
I decided that I would have a go at repairing them and coating them with a flat black.

I rubbed off the bits that were bubbling, sanded them a bit, and off gassed them at about 430F. Another bubble showed up, so I rubbed that one off. I tried to feather the edges if the damage with a dremel.

I used product from an ebay store "Powdercoat 101", otherwise known as Powder by the Pound. The colour was Tuskan Flat Black.

The colour looks good. I have just got carbon scoops, and they are quite grey, so the flat black sort of blends it in a bit. I will do the grab rail the same colour. :biglaugh:

I should have pre heated the covers and troweled on some powder to fill the damage spots. After that, heat them until it flows, and rub it back smooth after it cooled. Then coated them. But I didn't, I thought it would be OK. Luckily it doesn't show too much in flat black.
 

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You can also use JB weld as a filler and the powdercoat will flow over it ok.
 
You can also use JB weld as a filler and the powdercoat will flow over it ok.

Thanks mate! :biglaugh:
Have you seen it locally, coz when I've looked it has always been ex USA, at high freight cost. That's via ebay, but it will be work it if it works I guess.
 
Thanks mate! :biglaugh:
Have you seen it locally, coz when I've looked it has always been ex USA, at high freight cost. That's via ebay, but it will be work it if it works I guess.

It's available here in NZ so it must surely be in AUS. We have 'Trademe' which is like Ebay,
I would think the Australian Ebay would list it, if not try to Google it locally.
 
It's available here in NZ so it must surely be in AUS. We have 'Trademe' which is like Ebay,
I would think the Australian Ebay would list it, if not try to Google it locally.

This is cheaper than local sellers, and I don't need to go out to Jaycar to get it! :biglaugh:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251031125042?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Ordered a couple of tubes. I've seen it mentioned so many times online, it must be good gear.
I read the blurb. It's like araldite but no shrinkage, machineable, and can handle hotter that powdercoat cure temps. Wicked. :biglaugh:
 
get the parts blasted for best results

degrease with panel wipe

always use acid etch primer on alloys and preheat even to 200deg centigrade prior to coating (cool down first of course)
 
get the parts blasted for best results

degrease with panel wipe

always use acid etch primer on alloys and preheat even to 200deg centigrade prior to coating (cool down first of course)

+1 on media blasting as the best prep. I've hit parts hot with good results a couple of times. Clear is one that seems to go on better hot. There is a magic temp for this I haven't figured out yet though.
As for the wipe down, not everyone does it. I always have. But, I've had unprepped bolts that were only in to cover threads and the powder stuck very well. I had to gring it off on a wire wheel. I also out gas all my parts before coating. Sometimes twice.
 
Clear is awesome hot! You can really get it flowing. Comes out like glass.
I coat hot more often that not, if I don't need to wipe powder off anywhere.
These were hot, but thin parts cool really really fast!
 
Do you guys know about or use high temp masking tape to mask off a sharp line like on side covers top and bottom? Not bendable like painting tape though. Comes in handy.
 
Are you all spraying in a filtered booth? Also forgot to post my powder supplier of choice.
Check out Columbia Coatings for powders, effects and everything needed for coating. They even have a school if you wanna get good and serious. Check them out!
 
+1 for the thread...I'm also diving into the crazy world of PC'ing...Got myself a rebuilt oven ($70 on overstock for a massive Waring Pro 1.5 cub/ft countertop convection) and an Eastwood gun/chems/powders. I've got lots of toys so I'll be spending some ser
ious time (at least as much as the wife/kid allow) on mastering PC'ing. Looking to add some anodized chrome red to my black Max...I have a set of Protappers that are anodized red and I just love the combo...scoops, calipers, vmax emblem...skys the limit!!!
 
Love the enthusiasm! Post up here and I will tell you all the mistakes I've made! Don't worry when the gun shorts on the part. It was explained to be a good thing to me. Eastwood powders seem to work fine but selection is narrow. Get a good size container of Chrome/silver to use as a base for tons of other colors. Take a silver part right out of the oven and shoot a candy over it for instant result and then bake accordingly. Dust is your enemy!
Post up your results!
PATMAX
 
The youtube vids make it all look soooooo easy, but i'm sure it's not. I ordered the chrome and anodized red...that mix got really good reviews. I also got the glossy black as that seems to be the go-to color. One question...do you spray on a warm part (130 degrees or so) or just cold for the first coat? My understanding is to spray the second coat on a warm part (to help adheartion), but i'd like your thoughts...
 
a rugby ball needle attached to a shop vac or vaccum works wonders to pull powder out of spots its not wanted. say names on covers n such.
 
When shooting the candies, I always blow on the candy over a hot part because I watch it melt immediately and you will find out when doing candies that you can lay out too much material and you get a dark spot where the candy is too thick thus making the color look uneven. A dark spot makes me restrip and recoat to get acceptable quality.
 
Hi fmcandrew! Good to hear you are into it. I think that it IS easy compared to paint.

Pat, I got NOTHING fancy. No dust free environment, no special tapes, etc.
Dust is a menace, but no where near as bad as it is for paint.
Normal tapes works, but it is a pain in the butt to get off.
 
PATMAX - How hot...like right from the first coat curing hot? I've seen a vid where a guy coats his car manifold immediately after the first coat cures...like 350-400 degrees hot with a couple coats of clear...the results were amazing...very deep glass-like finish. I'm thinking of going to the Depot and buying a bunch of cheap brackets to experiment with...thoughts?
 
Anyone have experience with removing powder coating? I was checking out my wheels today and the coated covered up the mounting points for the brake rotors on both sides of the front wheel. He says it shouldn't be a problem but I'd rather have it removed. I have heard permatex aerosol gasket remover is good for tight areas. Spray it into a cup and brush it on with a q-tip... Any thoughts?
 
I've only sanded it off areas like that. If the solvent works, let me know!
 

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