Installing COPs inc. removing OEM coils pt5

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naughtyG

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On the left-hand side, I made sure that the COP wiring (arrowed) was in front of the V-boost servo, so it wouldn't get in the way of the V-boost cable or cam movement:
LHroute2.jpg


the wiring is routed through the opening in the heat shield (arrowed) that the HT lead used to go through:
LHroute.jpg


Now the left panel can go back on - screws arrowed:
LHpanel-1.jpg


Refit all the electrical components to their holders, starting with the lower round one...
1strelay.jpg


...followed by the other two above:
otherrelays.jpg

then the heat shield's rubber tabs get popped back in
rubbertabs.jpg


Before fitting the COP, we have to get the thin blade pliers out again..
clip1.jpg


..and rotate the clip on the coolant hose so that the smaller (arrowed) bit faces forward so it's clear of the coil:
clip2.jpg


Then the COP goes in, and here I'm wedging the lower rubber ring in so that it's in front of the above clip, and nicely snug between the cylinder head walls:
wedgeit.jpg


There we are, the last COP (#2) is in!
COP1.jpg


To finish up, let's throw that phat air box back in the frame...
airboxback.jpg


I like to get the crankcase oil breather pipe (arrowed) onto the nipple under the back of the air box in first. I find that holding the hose with my hand as in the picture and pushing the air box down onto it is the easiest way to get it in place:
oilbreather.jpg


make absolutely sure that the fuel bowl vent hoses are not pinched anywhere under or between the air box and the frame (arrowed):
venthoses.jpg


make sure all four boots are seated on the carbs properly, then while holding the air box down, secure the two boot clips on the left..
leftboots-1.jpg


.. and on the right.
rightboots.jpg


then refit the vent hoses holders on each side of the air box. These guys are really important, we've had some stories of strange behavior (misfiring, surge and other niceties) when these aren't exactly where and how they should be!
hosefitleft.jpg

hosefitright.jpg


Let's slide the puke tank back in its slot..
puketankback.jpg


And we're done! All that's left is to refit the seat, cowls and faux-tank cover. When I started mine (it hadn't run for almost two weeks) it definitely started quicker and easier with the COPs than before. It also seems to idle much smoother. I can't tell how well it rides yet, because I'm still waiting for that spacer to refit my front wheel :bang head::bang head:...

Now I have a nice set of spare OEM coils - these were made in 10/05 and do not have a single crack. I do think that either the boots or the leads are shot though, as the #1 cylinder was shooting sparks to its rubber heat shield in the dark..
OEMcoils.jpg


I hope this will help anyone who wasn't too sure about doing the COPs mod to see how easy it is. At least now you know where your CDI is and how to get to it :biglaugh:
Also, thanks to :worthy: Birdoprey for introducing this mod, and for noticing that my wires labels are wrong!!:icon_rolleyes: For the avoidance of doubt, here are the correct cylinder numbers: rear left = 1, front left = 2, rear right = 3 and front right = 4.
Please ignore the wiring stickers and numbers written on front connectors in my photos!


I can't wait to take my '86 for a ride again, now that it's fitted with 21st century ignition technology :punk::eusa_dance::clapping::scooter 1:
 
G-Very impressed with your dedication to this project. Thanks for the excellent photos and detailed descriptions.
After doing this mod I've been trying to figure out whether leaving the front coils in irritates me enough to remove them.
Having reviewed Part #5 I am now certain that leaving them in won't bother me one bit!! :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh:

GREAT JOB!!! :thumbs up::thumbs up::thumbs up::thumbs up::thumbs up:
 
bwahahaha! Yea they are a bit buried but I wasn't gonna leave 'em in :clapping:

Thanks for the heads up - I actually enjoyed putting this one in pics :punk:
 
Thx a bunch G. BUT is there any more facts to the "burn out on the CDI "?
I really would like to do this mod ,..but I don't want to run the risk of being stranded on the road.
Is the problem only with the after market Dyna 3000 ignition?
Or do a certain type of COP have to be used ?
Hoping for a trouble free update to a possible weak area. (cracked coils).
 
G great work

thank you very much for taking the time to do this for everyone

this is a great photo spread not only to explain removing the coils but for any other electrical issue in front of the airbox

i need to swap out an ignition switch and will consult your how-to to complete the job

excellent clear photos by the way
 
The main benefits:

- more reliable (old coils crack, HT leads rot and ends oxydize)
- way cheaper / easier to replace - just unplug, put a new one in
- stronger spark (as long as you have the original TCI and don't add a resistor)
- modern technology (all modern road bikes are so equipped)
- less weight! (ok very little but on the Max, every pound counts!)
 
The main benefits:

- more reliable (old coils crack, HT leads rot and ends oxydize)
- way cheaper / easier to replace - just unplug, put a new one in
- stronger spark (as long as you have the original TCI and don't add a resistor)
- modern technology (all modern road bikes are so equipped)
- less weight! (ok very little but on the Max, every pound counts!)

no resistor is only recommended on bikes with the later TCI 92? on, just wanted to clearify this so we don't have some stranded and pissed off Vmax'rs :punk: G
 
no resistor is only recommended on bikes with the later TCI 92? on, just wanted to clearify this so we don't have some stranded and pissed off Vmax'rs :punk: G

I thought the recommendation was any OEM TCI just not the Dyna3000 which is known to fry with the lesser resistance COPs?

I had COPs on my '86 for over a year without any probs, if that's of any help?
 
Did the COP thing few weeks ago and it seems to be starting better and seat of the pants seems to be running smoother. Thanks for the write up, helped a whole lot.

P
 

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