What's the trick with clear coat ???

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Robbarrie

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Hey guys,

I polished some parts which look pretty good, however when I sprayed with clear coat which is recommended - it now looks like shit. All spotty and now I'm totally pissed off. :damn angry:

What's the key or trick to spraying clear coat ??? Will the spots buff out after it's dry ? Did I spray to light, too heavy.....man I need some advice.

They are forecasting great weather for the weekend, I wanna get this bitch together and get riding. Please help. Can one spray paint overtop of clear coat if I have to ?
 
Hi Rob,
Most buffing compounds are wax based. A real through cleaning and washing are necessary if any painting is to be done. I did the same on some copper work I did years ago and the symptoms were as you describe.
Clean, clean, clean.

Good luck, Lew
 
Hi Rob,
Most buffing compounds are wax based. A real through cleaning and washing are necessary if any painting is to be done. I did the same on some copper work I did years ago and the symptoms were as you describe.
Clean, clean, clean.

Good luck, Lew


I've never got clear from a rattle-can to stick to polished alum even after cleaning the hell out of it with mineral spirits then alcohol. Finally gave up and just buff it frequently now. Will chrome someday or have it professionally clear coated if possible.

Rusty
 
Hey guys,

I polished some parts which look pretty good, however when I sprayed with clear coat which is recommended - it now looks like shit. All spotty and now I'm totally pissed off. :damn angry:

What's the key or trick to spraying clear coat ??? Will the spots buff out after it's dry ? Did I spray to light, too heavy.....man I need some advice.

They are forecasting great weather for the weekend, I wanna get this bitch together and get riding. Please help. Can one spray paint overtop of clear coat if I have to ?

I just did the polish and clear coat with great results.

1) Make sure you clean the part with a suitable automotive cleaning solvent like the commercial paint and panel shops use e.g. prepsol.

2) Use Clear engine enamel or clear hotpaint for a strong finish that will resist abrasion, solvents and heat.

3) Before applying to parts, pre-heat them in an oven to about 150 degrees fahrenheit. This helps the paint stick and reduces runs.

4) Spray initial light coat, let dry in a dust free envirnment and check for blemishes that may be due to any remaining polish wax or silicon.

5) Remove blemishes with very fine wet and dry abrasive paper.

6) Wipe over with prepsol.

7) Reheat parts in oven.

8) Apply another coat to warm parts. This coat can be heavier than the first but not too thick.

9) Apply a finishing coat to the parts while the second coat is touch dry but not fully cured.

10) When they are touch dry put them back into the oven for about 60 mins at 150 degrees to cure (hardens paint).

11) polish and buff when cured.

Looks awesome.
 
I just did the polish and clear coat with great results.

1) Make sure you clean the part with a suitable automotive cleaning solvent like the commercial paint and panel shops use e.g. prepsol.

2) Use Clear engine enamel or clear hotpaint for a strong finish that will resist abrasion, solvents and heat.

3) Before applying to parts, pre-heat them in an oven to about 150 degrees fahrenheit. This helps the paint stick and reduces runs.

4) Spray initial light coat, let dry in a dust free envirnment and check for blemishes that may be due to any remaining polish wax or silicon.

5) Remove blemishes with very fine wet and dry abrasive paper.

6) Wipe over with prepsol.

7) Reheat parts in oven.

8) Apply another coat to warm parts. This coat can be heavier than the first but not too thick.

9) Apply a finishing coat to the parts while the second coat is touch dry but not fully cured.

10) When they are touch dry put them back into the oven for about 60 mins at 150 degrees to cure (hardens paint).

11) polish and buff when cured.

Looks awesome.

:ttiwwp:
 
Well fine guys. When I do it again I'll take photo's (in about ten years).

I think everyone wants to see a picture(s) of the finished product, not every step. Your write up of polishing and clear coating is great and shall become "Sticky status"! :banana:
 
I think everyone wants to see a picture(s) of the finished product, not every step. Your write up of polishing and clear coating is great and shall become "Sticky status"! :banana:
I just posted pictures of the bike in the garage.
 
Buster - mine are black now, but I will be stripping and doing a redo as soon as I can get the extra time. I'll be following gleno's steps. I don't want the wife upset with me - she has already commented I spend more time with my bike than with her.....I said, your right, I do, and I also RIDE it allot more too. :rofl_200:
She wasn't impressed. O'h well, what does she expect after 16 years.

Anyway, I post pics and details when I do.
 
I stripped my black scoops and silver side panels last week. They are awaiting polishing now, just trying to figure out how to do them properly.
 
I stripped my black scoops and silver side panels last week. They are awaiting polishing now, just trying to figure out how to do them properly.

Here is an article that will help http://www.geocities.com/am20924/VMaxPolish.html?200728

Just remember..

1) Cover your finger tips with a plaster bandage before using the wet / dry sandpaper if you want to keep your fingertips.

2) To save time before you go to using jewellers rouge for the final polish, you should use a sisal buff for "cutting back" with a fastcut compound to save all that effort on the wet and dry. Then use a stitched rag buff for general purpose work (higher polish and finer compound). Finish with a loose leaf calico buff with jewellers rouge for a high (almost mirror) gloss.

Seal it with a wax NOT a metal polish OR clear coat it (see post this section on clear coating).
 
oh and don't use different polishing componds on the same buffing pad. Use one type of compound for each type of pad.

Ask the hardware store for advice.
 
Here is an article that will help http://www.geocities.com/am20924/VMaxPolish.html?200728

Just remember..

1) Cover your finger tips with a plaster bandage before using the wet / dry sandpaper if you want to keep your fingertips.

2) To save time before you go to using jewellers rouge for the final polish, you should use a sisal buff for "cutting back" with a fastcut compound to save all that effort on the wet and dry. Then use a stitched rag buff for general purpose work (higher polish and finer compound). Finish with a loose leaf calico buff with jewellers rouge for a high (almost mirror) gloss.

Seal it with a wax NOT a metal polish OR clear coat it (see post this section on clear coating).
I know what I'm doing this weekend.
 
Here is some interesting info that I heard today but haven't tried yet.

A guy who works at a shop which restores and re-finishes alloy rims told me that the clear coat they use is 2pac enamel.

Nothing more complicated than that. He says the finish will last a long time and is chip resistant.

The trick is to have it professionally applied and baked. The surfaces must be absolutely clean before you apply it.

No dust, grease, polish residue, nothing.

Should work well for most billet parts provided they are not too close to a very hot exhaust gas.

Might be worth a try on those side scoops and steering head cowlings?
 
Last edited:
Sounds exactly like a conversation I keep having to have with the wife....

...I don't want the wife upset with me - she has already commented I spend more time with my bike than with her.....I said, your right, I do, and I also RIDE it allot more too. :rofl_200:
She wasn't impressed.
 

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