Starting issue

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Biker Dash

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Location
Waterville, Maine (Equestria)
The weather here in Maine has gotten chilly rather quick. At the same time, I am having difficulty getting Woona to start. She cranks over fine, And I can hear the normal pre-start sounds. She just does not seem to want to fire.

Could it be the fuel? In northern climates, they use different blends between the summer and winter. Winter fuel evaporates much easier, so it will fire readily when cold, while summer fuel is less volatile, to not cause vapor lock in the heat of summer. I was wondering if maybe the fuel could be summer grade, and is just not volatile enough for cooler weather? When it is warmer out, she starts just fine. Note... Nightmare Moon (my truck) is not having this issue.

Another possibility I was thinking is low voltage. She does crank easily at first, but it does not take long for her to lose her available cranking juice. Battery going bad? Time for a new one possibly?

Just looking for direction on what way to turn to fix this lol
 
i'd take a plug out and make sure you're getting good spark.

full choke? does it sputter at all?

i assume the starter clutch is still grabbing? when my bike gets cold sometimes it doesn't grab it the first try.
 
The weather here in Maine has gotten chilly rather quick. At the same time, I am having difficulty getting Woona to start. She cranks over fine, And I can hear the normal pre-start sounds. She just does not seem to want to fire.

Could it be the fuel? In northern climates, they use different blends between the summer and winter. Winter fuel evaporates much easier, so it will fire readily when cold, while summer fuel is less volatile, to not cause vapor lock in the heat of summer. I was wondering if maybe the fuel could be summer grade, and is just not volatile enough for cooler weather? When it is warmer out, she starts just fine. Note... Nightmare Moon (my truck) is not having this issue.

Another possibility I was thinking is low voltage. She does crank easily at first, but it does not take long for her to lose her available cranking juice. Battery going bad? Time for a new one possibly?

Just looking for direction on what way to turn to fix this lol

Eliminate the possibility of a bad battery, for starters.
How old is the battery, and what type is it?
My 03 starts instantly, providing I have the choke set properly (when cold, at least 3/4 of full), and the battery has a full charge (12.6-12.8 volts)
I would suggest putting the battery on a charger, until you see the above numbers, then try to start the bike, using full choke. If it fires instantly, you know the battery is on it's way out, and the problem is not fuel related.
You should also see at least ten volts across the battery terminals, when the bike is turning over.
Cheers!
 
Hook your car or truck to your bike via jumper cables, if it starts right up you could probably say your battery has lost it's umph for cold wheather starts. I did the Gold wing big battery mod several years ago and my bike spins over like the spark plugs are out. I just recently replaced my 4 year old Die Hard with this one. 270 CCA, battery showed 13.02 volts right out of the box.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Y50-N18L-A3...ies&hash=item43b355eb94&vxp=mtr#ht_1288wt_963
 
Not certain what battery is in the bike, or how old the battery is. Just got the bike back in May (nice 40th B-day present to myself
pinkiehappy.png
) and I have yet to have the seat off the bike. (looking right now for a thread telling me just what needs to be undone to remove the seat.)

Once I have the battery exposed, I have one of them portable jumpstart tools you can get from Walfuck. If she fires right up using that, then I know the battery is probably about gone.

EDIT: Found it... removing the seat once I find my [censored]ing 10mm socket
facehoof.png
 
Seat removal with pictures:
http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/removeseat.htm

I'd take the battery to a local auto parts store and have it load tested (most do it for free).
If your battery is dead the Batteries I listed in this post are Great replacements for the short lived OEM Battery:
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showpost.php?p=305864&postcount=146
They both fit in the stock battery box without any mods needed.

You should read this guide for fixing charging issues also:
http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/removeseat.htm
 
Got the seat off, hooked up the jumper... cranked over and fired up immediately.
Guess I need a better battery. Will be ordering a new one at the beginning of the month.

Even the bigger UB12220 battery will fit?
 
I have a version of the AGM Panasonic LCX1220P....It fits with no midifications.

BMW motorcycle owners have been using the Panasonic LCX1220P with much success, and it turns out that it's a perfect fit for the V-Max and the very reasonable price makes it even more attractive. The battery is a hefty 20 amp hour unit which more than adequate for even high compression modified motors. The internal resistance is higher than the Odyssey/Genesis so cranking capacity is a bit less (but more than adequate) and overall capacity is greater. It is also a sealed AGM type battery requiring no maintenance and has been used successfully by quite a few V-Max owners and owners of a few other makes of motorcycles with similar battery size needs. Once you try a battery of this type in your Max you'll never go back to the traditional stock lead-acid type.

http://www.vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/battery.htm
 
Looks like the bigger UB12220 battery will fit and is a better choice than the one I suggested. Looks like you will need to purchase 2 bolts,nuts and washers to fasten your battery cables to the tabs on the UB12220, but thats no biggie.
 
Even the bigger UB12220 battery will fit?
Yes they are both almost the exact same size, the UB12220 is just a LOT stronger CCA wise.
I plan on getting the UB12220 when my current UB12180 fails (that may be a while yet). ;)
 
I say, you can't have too many CCA's, go for the bigger UB12220. I'm sure you won't be dissapointed.
 
Well, since I like to shop locally whenever possible, I looked around. I found a Duralast AGM style battery at one of the local parts places. 325CCA is still a HELL of a improvement over stock. Gonna cost me $85 or so for it.
 
Glad it's just your battery, Mr. Dash.
Another thing - you say that you got your bike this past May, so this is your first experience with a Max as the temps drop......beware....
...... this is a cold-blooded beast! Most owners will agree.
The choke will be required most everytime the bike has been left to cool down - regardless of the ambient temperature.
In my case, even on 80F degree days, if the bike has been left off for a short spell (such as a restaurant visit), I still have to use 1/2 choke to get it started.
The positive spin is that if the choke is set correctly, the bike fires up instantly.
Just something you learn to live with.
Cheers!
 
Well, since I like to shop locally whenever possible, I looked around. I found a Duralast AGM style battery at one of the local parts places. 325CCA is still a HELL of a improvement over stock. Gonna cost me $85 or so for it.
I have read mixed reviews of those Duralast batteries from Autozone.
Many people stated that they don't last very long.
I'd Google around and see what people are currently saying about them before buying one.

Is this the one you're referring to:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...GM-battery/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=350080_0_0_

Please let us know how it performs if you do end up buying one.
 
AGM is the way to go. Why have to deal with acid and water? USB WAS $59 shipped, but that was 4 years ago. 22AH. Still cranking strong-12.7 volts overnight cold. A stock Yuasa is 16AH and can run over $100 for a real pos. I hit them all with 10 amps for about an hr. before install. Then never charge them again. I start my bike at least every 2 weeks in winter. When this one goes, the same is going in. http://www.batteriesasap.com/
Steve-o
 
A Duralast 3 month warranty would be a deal breaker for me....go for the the bigger UB12220 battery ............
 
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