OEM Carbs? Post your setup

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what kind of mileage on the highway do you get grimmie?

I get mid to upper 30's playing with it. I haven't run a full tank of highway with this setup yet. With stock needles shimmed .030 I was getting around 40 or so.

:thumbs up:
 
I get mid to upper 30's playing with it. I haven't run a full tank of highway with this setup yet. With stock needles shimmed .030 I was getting around 40 or so.

:thumbs up:

I mis-spoke about my mileage above. I was getting around 40 (highway) when my carbs were jetted stock. I had the Holeshot exhaust on there. It was running a little rich then. My bad!

To be honest, I haven't checked the mileage with the Morley kit.

I did set the Floats last night. I'm gonna reevaluate my main jet and go from there.

I'll check my mileage soon, cause now I'm curious......
 
Current setup at 5280' Broomfield, Colorado:

(Setup has flawless carburetion going from the Denver Metro area all the way up to Mt. Evans at 14,000'+ altitude)

I get about 145-150 miles before low fuel light comes on.
Stock box with stock air filter. Modified with half-moon piece cut out of box top for better breathing at high end. 'Y' piece is on box top.
Stock 2001 Vmax exhaust (non-modified).

main jets = 142.5 Mikuni
pilot fuel jets = 42.5
pilot air jets number 1 (PAJ1) = 95
pilot air jets number 2 (PAJ2) = 180
(I tried running 160's on PAJ2's but lost my crisp midrange throttle response; stock 170's where better, and then settled on the 180's which are perfect)
Stock needles (no shims)
Stock (non-drilled) slides
Dynojet springs from a Stage I kit (stocks leave my midrange a bit 'laggy.' The Dynojets are really 'alive' in the midrange)
Idle fuel screws out about 1.5 turns each

All the sync ports are tied together on all 4 carbs with vacuum hose for a smooth idle.
*changed back to stock and now all carbs are fully independent except when Vboost kicks in.

I run Denso COP's with a stock 2001 ignitor box.

Perfect starting in all weather and temps. I use the choke/idle enrichment for about a minute on cold starts. Great midrange throttle response. I can consistently pull 135mph with no low, mid, or high end hiccups. I've hit 142.7mph with this setup at about a 7000' altitude.

Vinnie
 
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what kind of mileage on the highway do you get grimmie?

I did get to ride quite a bit yesterday:biglaugh:. I filled it up to the top of the neck with 87 octane & I rode 120 miles before getting gas. Light came on at 118 miles. About 70% open road riding @ 60-75mph. Rest was in town riding. I put 3.15 gallons to fill it back up to the top of the neck. That's just above 38 mpg. That's not bad at all considering I can have a unicycle anytime I want:hmmm:
 
1994 all stock California bike. with 7400 miles on the clock...yeah, I don't ride it much since I bought it brand new in December '93!
Removed the "smog" crap and replaced the carbs with a 49-state set.
1000' elev. here at home where I do 95 percent of my riding. I ride between sea level and 6000' around here at times.

Drilled exhaust cans (just the rivet holes to 3/8" dia.)
49-state needles (5EZ43) w/ 1MM shim.
150 mains
42.5 PJ
#90 PAJ-1
3-1/2 turns approx. mixture screws

Runs like a scalded cat! Crisp (finally!) and I average 30MPG.

I have a "T" boost which I never turn on. Don't really need it. I have a set of COP's that I might put on some day...some day.

Bud
 
wooo hooo, i finally can contribute

* Altitude: ~27 ft
* Relative Humidity: 70% average
* Median Yearly Temperature: 85F
* Intake: Individual filters and 3" velocity stacks
* Exhaust: Mark's Performance, 14" cans, 2-1/4" turned-down tips
* Main Jet: MK #150
* Pilot Jet: MK #37.5
* Needles: DJ Stage 7, clipped 3.5 notches down
* Fuel Bowl vent tubes intact
* Fuel Bowl floats: 17mm
* AFR screws: varies from carb-to-carb, but generally speaking, 2 turns out
* PAJ1: MK #90
* PAJ2: MK #170
* Diaphragm slides: drilled
* Diaphragm springs: DJ Stage 7
* VBoost: enabled

NOTE
runs firm in cooler, drier temps (~65*F, low humidity) and slightly strained in hotter, wetter conditions (~90*F, high humidity)
 
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Just installed and set-up. Runs out very well with no stumbles, hickups and such. Seems a little weak mid range, even though it pulls to the shift light hard and fast. Still need to dyno and do any fine tuning from there. But here is where its at currently.

1999' vmax
Holeshot/Hindle 4-1, old school style
Vmax carbs w/ muscle jet kit.
Stage 7 needles. Clip on 2nd slot from blunt end
155 mains
Stg 7 springs
Drilled slides
Stock PAJ 1 and 2
A/F screws out 3 turns
Floats set to 1.117 Dry/16-17mm wet

EDIT 4/17/2012
Dyno'd the bike yesterday finally. Lean(15:1) at the bottom. Very rich(8/9:1) mid rpm and a little rich on top(12:1).
Sean looked at the dyno sheet and recommended installing either the 175 or the 177.5 as the PAJ2. I installed them tonight and now the mid range is much stronger. The top end seems to have a little more to it as well. Must schedule another dyno pull
now...
Will post further results and dyno runs after the next pull.
 
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Marks 4-2 exhaust. 150 mains. Springs have 3 coils tied back. The Y is shimmed 3/8. a/f screws 2 3/4 -3 turns out. Needles shimmed .032. Fuel level at 17mm. K&n filter. I do have some Titanium needles to try, but when it's running great I hate to mess with it more. 122 miles till the light comes on. I found a dyno (new)not far away and will use them if I install the Titanium needles. $80 not bad for 3 pulls.
Steve-o
 
* Altitude: 10'
* Exhaust: Mark's 4-2, 14" cans, straight 2" end caps.
* Main Jet: MK #150
* Pilot Jet: MK #37.5
* Needles: stock shimmed .022
* Fuel Bowl floats: 16.5mm
* AFR screws: 3 1/8
* PAJ1: MK #90
* PAJ2: MK #170
*Air box Y Shimmed AND Trimmed for 1/2" air gap
* Diaphragm springs: stock with 3 coils tied together
* V Boost: open all the time and like it.

Millage-115-125 before the red light comes on. 150 miles on a tank pulling up to the pump is my best.
 
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Bit the bullet and bought a Morley jet kit, so here's my setup: (for now, lol)
7-800 ASL
Stock carbs
150 mikuni mains
stage 7 needles, clipped at 4th from blunt end
stock springs, slides not drilled
Morley airbox w/air correctors
PAJ 1&2 stock
vboost stock
mixture screws at 4 turns out on cyl's 1&2, 3 turns out on cyl's 3&4.
 
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Hi guys, I've just re-assembled my bike, was bought in bits, carbs are off another bike, it runs ok. But feels laggy when cracking it open from about 4thou.
Stock airbox
K&N filter
UFO 4 into 2 classic mufflers
Vboost unplugged wide open
I'm not sure what the carb settings are....I bought a "factory" carb kit ( looks like two sets of mains and adjustable needles), not sure if this was best thing.
Anyway, do you guys have a short list I should work through?
Many thanks from new Zealand
 
"Ninjaneer," I'm ashamed of you! The most important carb component can fail catastrophically and leave you in a world of hurt! Why didn't you include this information?:biglaugh:
 

Attachments

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hahaha. am still a rookie. in my defense, he did only ask how to tune, and not how to maintain. lol.

Regards from my Taptalking Hercules Android
 
A special thanks to Sean Morley for all his help. THANK YOU! Thank you Vmax forum and all its members for the information and knowledge that is in this forum THANK YOU!
I bought a Muscle kit from Sean a month or so ago and have been building them off and on over the last month or so. I finished them this past weekend and got them tuned in. (Thanks Sean!) Here is my set up.

330 ft. above sea level
Stock mains
Stock paj 1&2
Stage 7 needles 3rd clip
Stage 7 springs
Slides not drilled
A/F screws 2 and 1/2 turns out
Stock Vboost
Mroleys air box
Kerker 4-2-1
 
187 ft above sea level
main jet 185 dynojet - 172.5 mikuni
stage 7 needle 4th from square end
stage 7 springs
slides drilled
PAJ 1 & 2 stock
no air correctors
k & n indepedent air filters
2 inch copper velocity stack with X- WING inside copper pipe
v-boost stock
185 km or 114 miles then the little RED LIGHT goes on
stage 7 needle on clip 5 do 130 km only before red light but damn the bike pulls arms off
185 main jet a little rich top end dropped to 180 gonna see how it goes
UFO 4 INTO 2 EXHAUST 12" CANISTERS 2 1/2" HOLE
 

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