HOW TO: adjust your valves clearances pt1

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Status
Not open for further replies.

naughtyG

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2008
Messages
6,436
Reaction score
13
Location
Freo, Western Australia
Ok so finally (I know I've been putting this back waaaay too long!) here's a full 'how to' for doing your valves clearances, with the engine IN the bike.

I agree that it would be a helluva lot easier to do this with the engine out, but it's not that easy for everyone to remove their motor. Plus that SOAB weighs a ton, so on your own you'll struggle, whereas doing the valves in situ is no problem at all.

So 'ere we go. I assume anyone reading this already knows how to:
- remove the faux-tank cover
- remove both scoops
- probably best to remove seat and disconnect battery
- remove the airbox complete (no need to open it - just take off the breather hoses, loosen the rubber clamps above the carbs, and pull the whole thing off)

To start with, let's remove the component on the left-hand electrical panel. The fuel pump relay and flasher relay are arrowed in yellow, blue arrow points to my T-boost unit (never bloody worked I should trash that thing):
P1080014.jpg


Next we'll remove that panel altogether and set it aside, by taking out the 3 arrowed screws:
P1080017.jpg


Then let's get the radiator side covers off. Screws arrowed:
P1080018.jpg


We'll also take off the radiator mounting bolts, so we can lean it forward out of the way later. On the left..
P1080023.jpg


and on the right:
P1080025.jpg


Let's unplug all four spark plug leads. I'm running COPs (Coils Over Plugs) on my bike so that's what you get in the photos. I've arrowed the COP connectors and the COPs themselves in yellow. The blue arrow in the first picture shows a relay I'm using to switch power to my horns - you may not have this on your setup:
P1080027.jpg

P1080028.jpg

The red arrow in this pic shows the rubber shield I cut up a bit and reused to keep my COPs tight with the heat shield on the rear:
P1080031.jpg

P1080033.jpg


Then we're going to remove the rear cylinders' heat shield:
P1080034.jpg


Here is is sliding out - easy:
P1080035.jpg


Nice space above the rear cylinders - just enough to take the valve cover off:
P1080036.jpg


Coming back to the front, let's remove the rubber heat shield. On the left-hand side, you should have untucked its tabs already when removing the relays panel earlier on. On the right, let undo the two tabs on the right of the picture and the tie on the left:
P1080039.jpg


Then at the front behind the radiator, there are four metal tabs holding the rubber shield. I've arrowed the top two. You may need thin pliers of a flat screwdriver to bend the tabs out a wee bit:
P1080041.jpg

That heat shield should pull straight out.

Next, we'll remove the coolant overflow tank by pulling it straight up, and disconnecting its two hoses (arrowed):
P1080048.jpg


If your airbox (arrowed) is still in place, take it off now.
P1080049.jpg


Next we're gonna drain the coolant. I wasn't going to do that originally, but later found it necessary, so let's start by locating the drain valve (yellow arrow) under the radiator at the front. I put a clear hose on its nipple (green arrow) but that was a waste of time as nothing comes out of there. Skip this and..
P1080061.jpg

..turn the valve to drain mode by aligning the word (drain) ON to the mark (arowed):
P1080067.jpg


Then let's locate the coolant drain plug on the right of the engine:
P1080064-1.jpg


..and remove it, having placed a suitable container underneath to catch it. Once the plug is removed, also remove the coolant filler cap on top of the thermostat housing behind the right scoop. Coolant will now gush out:
P1080065.jpg


We're now ready to attack the rear valve cover. Let's remove its 4 Allen bolts on the right side..
P1080051.jpg

..and on the left:
P1080052.jpg


Then let's pull it up:
P1080054.jpg


And take it out from the left because this coolant hose (arrowed) stops us on the right:
P1080055.jpg


There's just enough space - it'll pull out:
P1080058.jpg


The front cover doesn't look so fun. Notice how much busier it is in there?
P1080060.jpg


This is what made me drain the coolant. I couldn't see how I could pull the cover from the right, and on the left was this hose. So I squeeze that arrowed clip with long thin pliers..
P1080068.jpg


..and removed it (with the help of a flat blade screwdriver):
P1080072.jpg


But then I realized I could STILL not pull the cover off. The Yamaha Service Manual fails miserably to tell you this, but above the cover, the metal elbow attached to the Vboost servo stops the cover..
P1080075.jpg

..from going high enough to clear the cam sprockets underneath:
P1080076.jpg


So here's the solution (and the reason the airbox had to go). On the right side, remove the 3 screws (arrowed) holding the panel with the thermostat etc:
P1080238.jpg


Also pull off the main radiator coolant hose..
P1080091.jpg


..as this will allow you to set aside this whole panel:
P1080090.jpg


Now we can access the two Philips screws (arrowed) that hold the Vboost servo. The red arrow shows the right side of the TCI for reference.
Make SURE to use the right Philips screwdriver (#2) or bit, or you WILL strip those screws. They're in tight.
P1080085.jpg


Once the screws are off, it's easy to set the Vboost servo aside, and now you have plenty enough room to remove the front valves cover.

We're almost done with removing shit - we now have access to all our valve shims. Here's the front..
P1080095.jpg


..and the back:
P1080094.jpg


Last removal bits: we need to take off the stator cover screws:
P1080096.jpg


Those bitches were tight, and I left some finger skin in there - OUCH! Luckily I had my japanimation plasters to the rescue.. :biglaugh:
P1080098.jpg


So now that the cover's off..
P1080108.jpg


..we need to take off the washer:
P1080109.jpg


So we can access the nut to spin the engine. Now that photo is art:
P1080115.jpg


We also need to take off the little cover to the left, so we can see the timing marks:
P1080100b.jpg


I always use coins for these guys - they seem to fit better than any screwdriver. Here's the first attempt:
P1080101.jpg


Bitch is tight. Try again...
P1080103.jpg


This is the 4th coin now. They don't make them like they used to!?
P1080107.jpg


So I gave up and got the hammer out!
P1080111.jpg


Got it off. Also, let's now remove all four spark plugs - when you go to spin the crank it will be a helluva lot easier without compression!

In Part 2 we will adjust our valves clearances! :eusa_dance:
 
Last edited:
Great job! Only thing I would add is removing valve cover bolts in criss-cross pattern for the first 1/4 turn to prevent warpage.
 
Great job! Only thing I would add is removing valve cover bolts in criss-cross pattern for the first 1/4 turn to prevent warpage.

of the gasket, right? mine weaps already so i know i'll be replacing it. also seems that some normal hex head bolts might be better suited so no stripping can happen.
 
Excellent job "G"!! Thanks for making the effort! :clapping::thumbs up::clapping::thumbs up::clapping::thumbs up::eek:h yeah:

It's a bad enough job without stopping to take pics every step of the way. :punk:
 
I don't usually bother with loosening the covers a little at a time. I think Mark is concerned about the cover warping (not the gasket) - though I am not sure. The cover will usually crack before it warps too much as the hardness they have the metal tempered tends to have it snap back to position. The rubber grommets tend to stick to the valve cover over time and when taking the covers off will flex the valve cover up until it comes loose from the grommet.

The Ventures used 10mm headed bolts and not allens. Some like the look better but they both work just fine. They do also "bottom out" before you can overtighten them and deform the gasket. You'll break a bolt or a cam cap before that happens.

Nice job though.
Sean
 
awesome job dude, was dreading checking my valves cause everyone said take the motor out, not that its hard just time i dont have this summer.
 
Sean, yes worried about valve covers themselves warping.
 
thanks guys. can the 10mm bolts be any hardware store ones? or are the special?

priced out 16 bolts from BB with the washers and gromets and it was $200...:th_scared:
 
He's talking about when taking them off. You'd have to see how much those suckers flex (the grommets really stick sometimes)! I just take my hand or rubber mallet and tap the cover back down once I undo the bolt a little if it's starting to rise.

I have a number of 10mm headed bolts from Ventures if anyone wants them. Probably not charge you too much. BUT, keep in mind that most of them are probably 20+ years old and not maybe in the best condition. The Venture engines never were cleaned nearly as well as our Vmax engines are due to access.

Sean
 
is there anything specific about the bolts Sean? just normal metric ones? looks like they're 10mm head by 6mm thread by 20 mm long.
 
They are specifc and you won't find anything like them. Number one they have that large head and washer (which I suppose could be setup to just use a big washer) but then they also have a built in shoulder to limit travel and maintain a set distance to keep from squishing out the rubber seal. Then to complicate it more they also have a stepped area (not a true shoulder) to allow the seal to seat in place and get retained onto the bolt. You can easily access one of the stock ones if you want to see how they are built.

Sean
 
ah okay. nah i'll probably just order from u or whatever. as long as my rtv silicone gasket holds this will be done sometime in early '11.
 
Bolt with washer p/n 90119-06218-00. $1.10
Washer spec'l shape 90209-11262-00. $2.14
Rubber mount 1. 2GH-1111G-00-00. $2.21
Yamahapartsdepot.com. Priced today
Also saw a set of used on Ebay last night.
I want to thank you for doing this as I'm just about to start adjusting mine for the first time.
Has anyone actually had a problem with the bolt sealing rubbers leaking?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Back
Top