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On something like that I'd rather assemble my own. Not to mention that $46 price tag for shipping is a turn off too. USPS priority is about a quarter of that for thier flat rate boxes.
 
Yipee, bought a really nice set for 65$ shipped :eusa_dance:
1359005678
 
Alex send me a LC1 wideband controller for free and it came today :eusa_dance:

Alex is the man - thank you my friend, you rock :punk:

Now i just need a bosch LSU 4.2 sensor :eusa_dance:



Also 36-1 wheel's came today but I will resend them to manufacter as I dont like the the quality they made.
First time they send a SHIT, maybe its time to change the laser cutting company.
I wll take one and will try to machine it tomorrow to make it better quality.
 
hello:) today is engaged in performance testing of steam: defining the notched pulley and the crankshaft position sensor. what conclusions I did. if you use a sensor factory old style, then do the pulley thickness greater than 3 mm does not make sense. even if the sensor is askew and goes beyond the pulley to 2 millimeters, all fully working. maximum clearance at the correct positioning of the sensor and the pulley was 4 millimeters. with such a gap is beginning to see momentum megaskvirt already with 200 revolutions per minute. with increasing speed signal becomes clearer and stronger. (I did not give more speed 6000. My machine can no longer give. At such speed input was about 16 volts. It's even a lot. Will signal such as a crop. Top of the tooth 2.5 mm. It is enough. Why should we seek to more subtle pulley-less mass flywheel. less imbalance of the missing tooth. if you use the new sample probe, the signal is clearer and more correct, but he needs a pulley thicker. HoTs would millimeter 4-5. signal even though the correct form, but the level is less than . can not operate stably. Przemek, I have to ask of you-you can make another pulley? need a thickness of 3 millimeters and the number of teeth-60-2? just I have an engineering unit from my car with him, I just could adjust fuel mixture. and the ignition can leave and family. if everything-you can try to do everything megaskvirt and ignition and mixture. I'm not quite understand what is written in the description megaskvirt, I am afraid to break something. I would like to have there are 2 ways to install:) only-no need to make a ditch for the mounting bolt, the more than 4 pieces. need to strengthen on-site 3 screws. otherwise easily fall into the hole in the flywheel. missing tooth, should not cut completely, and 2-3 mm. try it. imbalance less.
привет :) сегодня занимался проверка работоспособность пара:шкив задающий зубчатый и датчик положения коленчатого вала . какие выводы я сделал . если будет использоваться датчик заводской старого образца , то делать шкив толщиной больше 3 миллиметра нет смысла . даже если датчик стоит криво и выходит за пределы шкива на 2 миллиметра-все вполне работает . максимальный зазор при правильном позиционировании датчик и шкив составил 4 миллиметра . при таком зазоре мегасквирт начинает видеть обороты уже с 200 оборотов в минуту . с ростом оборотов сигнал становится четче и сильнее . (я не давал обороты больше 6000 . мой станок больше не может дать . при таких оборотах входной сигнал был около 16 вольт . это даже много . придется сигнал как-то обрезать . вершина зуба 2,5 миллиметра . это вполне достаточно . почему нужно стремиться к более тонкий шкив -меньше масса маховика . меньше дисбаланс от отсутствующего зуба . если использовать датчик нового образца,то сигнал четче и правильнее,но ему нужен шкив более толстый . хоты бы миллиметра 4-5 . сигнал хоть и правильная форма ,но уровень меньше . может работать не стабильно . Пржемек,у меня к тебе просьба-можно сделать еще шкив? нужен толщиной 3 миллиметра и количество зубьев-60-2 ? просто у меня есть инженерный блок от моей машины ,с ним я точно смогу настроить смесь топлива . а зажигание можно оставить и родное. если все получится-можно пробовать на мегасквирт делать все- и зажигание и смесь . я плохо понимаю,что написано в описании мегасквирт, боюсь что-то сломать . хотелось бы,чтобы были возможны 2 варианта установки :) единственное -не нужно делать канава для болт крепление ,тем более 4 штука . нужно крепить на месте 3 винт . иначе легко попасть в отверстие в маховик . недостающий зуб-надо срезать не полностью,а мм 2-3 . пробовать так . дисбаланс меньше .
 

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Im only lagging some time, I dont even have any daytime to work with my v-max...should find some free time soon.

Im glad my signal wheels were useful to you.
Send me an email with some of your detalied requirements.


Very good job BTW!
 
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oops ... all is canceled with an additional pulley ... I thought I left home one sensor, which is closer to the gearbox and a second place in the management of Efi. but in front of the sensor does not fit: (you'll only make one and try to make everything work by Efi. it certainly complicates the problem and does not leave much choice. but what to do ... and who is now easy:) here. it turns out another problem. sensor at high speed has a higher sensitivity. He works at a distance of 5-6 millimeters. so here. We have put an extra pulley. it is located only three millimeters from the factory pulley. I fear that the large momentum is strong interference. I try to include the sensor as far as possible. but then the hardware starts to balk at casting a bolt to the crankcase. and I'm forced to use a pulley, which has a thickness of 6 millimeters. if you cut off the tabs on the mother the flywheel, then no problem. but I can not cut because I can not balance the flywheel. specifies the pulley around I can balance out static. on the table. it is light and thin. a flywheel, no. and cut the teeth will give a very strong imbalance. people who were rebuilding a motorcycle old pattern is a more advantageous position. there is only one tooth. and it can be combined with giving the pulley. He will give a hindrance, but it will not interfere. and then you can use thin pulley. and there is no problem with the sensor. a word or two of the pulley is not needed. I'm trying to attach correctly and firmly position sensor Crankshaft:) tomorrow or the day after the photo skins, you are:) tomorrow or the day after I put the photo that turned out:)
 
I told you to not play with stock sensor and use a good speed sensor + 36-1 pulley from the beginning :)

I have a spare pre 90 flywheel I can send you - its only missing the internal sheet shiled which is easy to DIY fabricate.
I can also balance that flywheel.

I was saying from the beginning that we should stick with the flywheel modified like this:

100_1313.JPG



And the good speed sensor like that:

http://www.ai-tek.us/passive_speed_sensors.html


Take my good advice and take that route :)
 
I told you to not play with stock sensor and use a good speed sensor + 36-1 pulley from the beginning :)

I have a spare pre 90 flywheel I can send you - its only missing the internal sheet shiled which is easy to DIY fabricate.
I can also balance that flywheel.

....



Take my good advice and take that route :)
We, the Chinese pioneer, not afraid of difficulties. We build them first, then overcome with pride.
it is a beautiful flywheel. I am happy to pay the manufacturer is. but I have nowhere to such manufacture. if the factory is good and can make out there and there is strong protection order from the side. if the factory takes a third-party order, then do so, you need your hands to beat. properly prepare the no . : (Przemek if we can make this and it is possible to balance a need of course. I really want such a flywheel. Just need to count the cost. But it still does not abolish the great word-experiment on the knee rasp:) always have to try to spoil everything himself and then go to a professional. otherwise boring:)
 
turned out like this. maybe even get to use native ignition:) must try:)
 

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I will be moddind that flywheel anyway as I dont want to mess with mine own.

But I have much more thigs to worry about then playing with EFI so, this must wait for its time.

And good job, keep us posted.
 
I will be moddind that flywheel anyway as I dont want to mess with mine own.

But I have much more thigs to worry about then playing with EFI so, this must wait for its time.

And good job, keep us posted.


Come tell us more, what are you going to do and how and for how much money. Of course I will tell you. the more that will soon need some help. I have some idea what to do in the settings. but all the elements of the description megaskvirt written in technical language and the compiler did not correctly translated. obtained just plain nonsense. Well, then. I hope that if everything is working more or less correctly, maybe someone from serious guy will make a kit. to make things right. do on-knee is not right. this, no scooter, speed and power of big. should be all right. and then can get the correct kit to take a little cheaper:) and ready, what is now - it's expensive and I do not like. tune tune can not be set too high, and the equipment I personally do not like. I want not:)...:punk:
 
spring, warm, old motor still works .... until all money is spent on just nonsense: clothing, building, a child to go school ... unfortunately, nothing new ... soon, maybe ... :) I want to mount the engine and to get there. if all is well, put a motorcycle ... in general, there is nothing new: (but we have no hurry-win for us:) we will win! anyway:)
весна,тепло,старый мотор еще пока работает....все деньги расходятся на всякий ерунда:одежда,стройка,ребенок идти школа...к сожаление,ничего новый...скоро,может быть... :) хочу сделать держатель двигатель и завести там . если все хорошо-ставить мотоцикл...в-общем-пока ничего нового :( но нам торопиться некуда-победа за нами :) мы победим! так или иначе :)
 
.Has anyone investigated this setup any further?....

Rebuilding my tore up carbs and stage 7 kit/nuts/bolts/diaphragms..etc = $930 ish +/-

new pcw setup = 1900


Thinking I would love to get something like this working...
http://www.youtube.com/roadstercycle#p/a/u/2/GYXOyMgpv9A

http://roadstercycle.com/ = :)

Interesting concept, but the OEM carbs work too well for my kind of all around riding, to put money in that direction. For me, a 40 hp nitrous shot would give me my moneys worth at the same price. IMHO.
Steve
 

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