Drilled slides??

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
****UPDATE****
I ended up doing the epoxy on the holes in he slides and getting a #19 drill bit to redrill them. I also put a set of stock needles in and it still isn't running right! :bang head: !! So I'm assuming the next step would be check all the boots for leaks??
 
Does anyone have any ideas? Besides the boots? If I remember correctly you use a propane torch (not lit obviously) to check for leaks right?
Thanks guys
 
Does anyone have any ideas? Besides the boots? If I remember correctly you use a propane torch (not lit obviously) to check for leaks right?
Thanks guys

Go back to the beginning.....make sure you're carbs are clean, valves are adjusted correctly, you've got good compression, etc., all the basics.....you're just guessing at this point.
 
You have any mods to the air box? Are you checking sync on the carbs?
I agree with Dannymax, start from the beginning.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Carbs are sqeaky clean! They were just gone through. No airbox mods, I have the Y piece on the top and the lines that come off the carbs. The carbs are sync' properly also. I checked them two days ago and they were good and I have not made any adjustments.
 
I have not checked compression or the valves. I've never adjusted valves before but I have the calmer manual.
 
Does anyone have any ideas?

Go back to the beginning....you're just guessing at this point.

Agree totally with Mr Dannymax..

Don't assume anything, if not already done do a full service, if the leads and HT leads are OE then replace them.

Better still, put the bike on a dyno and have a base run that way you will have some hard facts to base your next move.
 
Max, are saying the ignition wires and boots?

Coil to plug wires and spark plug caps. Either end of the plug wires can build corrosion as well as all the contact points in the plug caps (there's 4 or 5 points in each of the plug caps alone).

A good maintenance cleaning in these areas can yield amazing results performance wise.
 
Coil to plug wires and spark plug caps. Either end of the plug wires can build corrosion as well as all the contact points in the plug caps (there's 4 or 5 points in each of the plug caps alone).

A good maintenance cleaning in these areas can yield amazing results performance wise.

Contact cleaner?
 
Contact cleaner?

I've never used it but guess contact cleaner would work ok, I usually just use some 1500 sand paper to rub off the corrosion and a spot of di-grease, 'cept the wire ends, snip them back a bit until you find clean shiny copper....or as Mr. MaxMidnight said just buy a coil of wire and make your own new ones. And the spring probly will require attention as it usually has some corrosion.
 
I have COPS on it. Is it hard to check the float levels with the carbs partially on the bike? And when say partially I mean just pull them out the left side but don't disconnect the throttle cables. I kind of forgot because it's been 8-9 months but I got a box of parts from Sean Morley and it ran bitchen when I put the carbs in that he sent. Sorry I didn't mention it already! When I had my carbs out I set the floats on the bench with a digital micrometer but I didn't do a wet level check because I didn't feel comfortable with how to do it.
 
I have COPS on it. Is it hard to check the float levels with the carbs partially on the bike? And when say partially I mean just pull them out the left side but don't disconnect the throttle cables. I kind of forgot because it's been 8-9 months but I got a box of parts from Sean Morley and it ran bitchen when I put the carbs in that he sent. Sorry I didn't mention it already! When I had my carbs out I set the floats on the bench with a digital micrometer but I didn't do a wet level check because I didn't feel comfortable with how to do it.



If you have a service manual for your bike you can look in there for the carb service part and find how to check to see if all of the carbs at at the same level. If you already set them with mics I'd say you're good there.
I wonder if when you removed the float to set the tab, if it didn't set back on the needle valve, or if the wire on it got bent.
I'd check continuity on your plug and play parts for the cops, depending on where they came from or if they have been put on from the PO. You can also check the cop themselves. They have to read a certain something or another, so that's another thing to check.
Air, fuel, and spark...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You can do a wet float level check with the carbs fully installed. Instructions can be found in the sticky section of the carb forum. Also, in the factory service manual.

If it's off, you'll need to pull and split the rack to asjust.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
If you have CoP's on it then making and breaking the connections will clean them.
Can we assume that the front CoP's are the right way round?
What year is your bike and do the CoP leads have ballast resistors?
 
I didn't build the COP's myself, a member here did a while back and they are done right. Pretty sure they are. The left side crosses to the right and
Vice versus right?
 
Speaking of switching carbs, are they fully seated? That has been the reason some didn't run correctly after installing them. It's worth a check. WD-40 on the intake bots and firm downward pressure on the carb rack will help. There are some threads on the forum showing what fully seated carbs look like. Wet check is the best way to verify the float levels.
 
I'm pretty sure they are but I'll double check. I'm really thinking its the float level and here's why...... when I had Sean Morley's loaner carbs on it ran perfect, no hesitation off the line, no lean pop on deceleration, no missing at freeway speed. I put a set of stock needles back in and put epoxy on the slide holes and redrilled with a #19 bit. It did have stage one adjustable needles which I tried different clip positions and it didn't seem to change anything. So let me ask you this... if the floats were a little low would it cause the symptoms I just described?
 
And I guess I can rule out a bad boot because if that were the case it would not have ran good with morleys carbs on it.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top