Vmax Battery replacement 101

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Re: I Reckon I'm lookin fur a Batry

I think my battery is on it's way out. I remember seeing a post recently about options and now I can't find it. I think there was a fairly cheap Panasonic available and people were ranting and raving about it. Doess anyone have a link to this? Or can you just post the information?

Thanks

Travis

http://www.apexbattery.com/panasoni...-lead-acid-batteries-panasonic-batteries.html

I ordered it and it's pretty good quality. Had to change a little bit of how the wires run as the posts are angled differently from the stock posts.
 
I'm wanting to check this battery before I go out and buy another. It's been working great- riding it every day. I rode to my buddy's house, stayed there for a couple hours, came out and it was absolutely dead. I can't remember if when I came out to start it whether I needed to turn the key back on or not. I have a pretty good habit of flipping the kill switch and then habitually reaching down and turning the key off when I shut the bike off. Perhaps I forgot to turn the key off and the headlight drained it. Anyway, I have voltmeters- what should i expect to see accross the posts?
 
About 13 volts with bike off. At leas 13.5 volts at idle. It's possible your stator to r/r connection is bad or even the r/r itself.
 
Re: I Reckon I'm lookin fur a Batry

I think my battery is on it's way out. I remember seeing a post recently about options and now I can't find it. I think there was a fairly cheap Panasonic available and people were ranting and raving about it. Doess anyone have a link to this? Or can you just post the information?

Thanks

Travis

I have had very good luck with the Odyssey PC680 battery. I don't ride my '85 all the time and wanted to ensure the battery was fully charged for those times I do ride. I decided to purchase the Odyssey Optimizer Charger (Xenotronix SX-90-1). When I return home I connect the charger to my quick disconnect and it maintains the battery at full charge. I have not had any problems since I installed the battery over a year ago.

Jeff

vmax_lineart.jpg
 
It was time for a new battery in the Max so I ended up putting the bigger Diehard in it today. It wasn't bad, a little tight, but who really complains about that....... I put a trickle charger on it as well so I can bring the battery back to a full charge now and then. We'll see how it works. I does start really well with this battery. The bike was pretty cold 40-45 deg. Started right up without an issue.:eusa_dance: +1 for the Max!
 
It was time for a new battery in the Max so I ended up putting the bigger Diehard in it today. It wasn't bad, a little tight, but who really complains about that....... I put a trickle charger on it as well so I can bring the battery back to a full charge now and then. We'll see how it works. I does start really well with this battery. The bike was pretty cold 40-45 deg. Started right up without an issue.:eusa_dance: +1 for the Max!

which one was it, i'm going to need one in the spring
 
I used to swear by Diehard batteries. Bought only Diehards for years and years.
Then I found Napas' outperform and outlast them by leaps and bounds.
So now I swear by Napas'.
But Yet I put the Panasonic in my Max. So Far it works great!
 
Re: Vmax Battery replacement

Here are a few pics. I have a lot more of them available.

Sean Morley


MY BATTERY IS CRAPPING OUT ON ME>
DO YOU HAVE A PART # FOR THAT BATTERY OR A CAT. # ??
I AM AFRAID TO GO ANY WHERE AND TURN IT OFF.

IT DIED ON ME TWICE TODAY.

P.S. A PRICE WOULD BE GOOD ALSO IF KNOW HOW MUCH THEY COST.
THANK YOU, <<DAVE..:clapping:
 
Re: Vmax Battery replacement

I think it's 44359 or 44366 for the standard lead acid (you can look in the catalog and compare the part numbers using the numbers on here - also there is a size chart and the larger battery is virtually the same except the width which is 3/4" wider). They also offer an AGM battery which I think is 44001 but again verify the numbers.

Sean
 
Thank you Sean ,

Your help and advice is always greatly apprecieated :worthy:.
I just have one more question concerning the cut up battery box.

What did you do with the front piece ? Did you put it back or did you put something else in there to protect the battery as it looked pretty flimsy.

Thanx, <<Dave>>
 
remember you are cutting off the back which faces the fuel tank. I don't bother putting anything else back on. You can zip tie it back on if you want but make sure to leave enough slack.

Sean
 
Hello,

I think solved this frustrating starting problem that has been haunting my Max until recently. As this is the first year January model, some improvements have been done. They are:

1) To solve the charging problem, made
- Crimp fix
- Changed the regulator / rectifier into the newer model's (1993-) one

2) To solve the starting power / starter clutch slippage problem
- Changed the battery into YTX24HL-BS (nominal values: voltage 12 V, capacity 21 Ah, cold cranking current (=starting power) 350 A (DIN) and 567 A (EN)
- For comparison, the same values of the original type battery are: voltage 12 V, capacity 12 Ah, cold cranking current 130 A (DIN) and 210 A (EN)
- Changed the whole cabling (both + and - sides) between the battery, starter relay, starter motor and grounding. Same time increased the cable diameter and soldered all the joints. Further, soldered together all the grounding cables so that battery minus, engine, frame and starter motor housing are all connected directly by the grounding cable. Also drilled there a hole for extra ground connection bolt into the starter motor housing in order to get the grounding cable connected good.
- Cleaned the M8 threads in the flywheel, where the starter clutch is connected via the three bolts. Now this is important operation! As the bolt ends have been hit at the factory to prevent them getting loose, this usually messes the threads up when they are released during the starter clutch disassembly. If the thread is not in good condition (i.e. the new bolt can not be twisted in just by fingers), it's better to be cleaned by the proper thread fixing machinist tool. Only after this it can be tightened accurately into the specified torque.

If you take a look at the CCA values, regardless of the measuring standard, the nominal starting power is 2.7 times higher than in the original type battery. Meanwhile the Ah capacity has also grown from the original 16 Ah to 21 Ah, which is good thing as well.

This battery is of about the maximum physical size that can be installed into a V-Max. To do this, you have to take the plastic battery box away and cut all the walls. Then install the bottom back, and if you want, the front and/or back wall then. This I believe is not necessary, as the battery is not moving very easily due to it's big size.

Oh yeah, and the cost. It was 120 euros. So if you have starting problems, the solution is right here...
punk0000.gif




Regards,

AT
 
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I thought my Stator was bad when I tested it, so i replaced it and my voltage is lower than before. I assume it is either the cracked flywheel magnet (new one on the way) or it is the charging system issues mentioned here, including the cheap battery from the autoparts store that fit the opening.
 
I am gettinmg more confused the more I try and solve the VMAX electrical problems.


Now I am getting 12.5 aprox volt when key is off.
I replace the stator cover and it starts fine.
When i add the oil it will no longer start. Is that possibly because I need more power from the battery to start it after the oil is added?

Does it mean I have elctrical flow grounding to the oil when it is added?

Any thoughts?

The battery is from an auto parts store and I dont know what the CCA is, but I am wondering if that is part of my problem.

So any ideas or thoughts from some of you more mechanically literate people?

-Paul
 
crap batteries can cause all sorts of problems. after seeing how well my stock yuasa has done, i'll probably buy nothing else
 
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