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Not with the clip still in. That sucker is normally pretty strong. They do get rusted up though on older forks and if the seal was ignored long enough (and outer seal was bad to let water in).

Sean
 
People on the VMOA talk about replacing that circlip when ever they replace seals but I've found them to always be reusable.
 
i always replace them. I can see your point Chris your bike was brand new, but the few jobs i've done, its worth the extra $3.
 
Yea, they also talk about all the tools you need to do the job! What did we use so far:

Impact with 19mm oops 22mm socket
Screwdriver to lift up the dust seal and pop the retaining wire
Impact with 8mm (I think) allen socket
Hands
Rags
Catch Bucket.

Will need a couple of other tools to get where we started though (to get the front wheel off) and a 6mm Allen to get the triple bolts loose.

Sean
 
sean we should play bolt size jeopardy with you on the vmax.
 
LOL, we did something similar like that the last big trip to thunder a few years back. Might have to start a new thread!

Sean
 
its almost like u've done that before sean! haha.. couple questions..

1. happen to know off hand what size your PVC driver(s) are? I know a lot of guys have asked that.

2. Why do u re-use the stock metal spacer instead of the progressive PVC?

3. Your 1-1/4" chop, how long does that leave the stock spacer vs the recommended length of PVC progressive recommends? Or is it the same?
 
its almost like u've done that before sean! haha.. couple questions..

1. happen to know off hand what size your PVC driver(s) are? I know a lot of guys have asked that.

2. Why do u re-use the stock metal spacer instead of the progressive PVC?

3. Your 1-1/4" chop, how long does that leave the stock spacer vs the recommended length of PVC progressive recommends? Or is it the same?

Pretty sure 2" pvc will do it Garrett. It would be 1/8" a side bigger than 43mm forks. Not sure if you would have to grind a bit off the od but, prolly not.
 
its almost like u've done that before sean! haha.. couple questions..

1. happen to know off hand what size your PVC driver(s) are? I know a lot of guys have asked that.

2. Why do u re-use the stock metal spacer instead of the progressive PVC?

3. Your 1-1/4" chop, how long does that leave the stock spacer vs the recommended length of PVC progressive recommends? Or is it the same?

1) Not sure. It is a thin wall PVC tube though thicker wall stuff will work with the ends sanded down a bit. You want it to just fit over the fork.
41mm = 1.61"
43mm = 1.69"
so the 2" pipe by the time you add the wall thickness will probably be about right. I have one for doing the Vmax's and then another narrower one for doing the Fazer forks we run into often.

2) You could use the PVC stuff but I just cut off the steel since I have the chop saw here.

3) the 1 1/4" chop gives you exactly the length called out for in the progressive chart!

Sean
 
Thanks danny and sean. probably schedule 40 it sounds like then.
 
I would assume that if you are installing Ricor Intimidators that you would make the spacer that much shorter as well (believe it is 5/8")?
 
Syncrowave 250 but close. Same machine Ryan used for welding out at his day job here at Spirit Aerosystems. He has to cert every 3 months (x-ray examination) so he does know how to weld. I can make the parts stick together long enough for him to make it here and finish the job anyway!

Sean
 
Syncrowave 250 but close. Same machine Ryan used for welding out at his day job here at Spirit Aerosystems. He has to cert every 3 months (x-ray examination) so he does know how to weld. I can make the parts stick together long enough for him to make it here and finish the job anyway!

Sean

Close? lol Sheet metal is I guess...

I was a Miller certified repair tech for 5 years. Done worked on MANY of that vintage.

Syncs are one of the best out there IMO.

If you're ever pricing stuff let me know! Our family business is 14 stores strong and 2nd (family owned) in Miller sales in the U.S.

Chris
 
dang, where were you when the sucker needed a motherboard. They shafted me for $700 for that sucker (installed). I think one of my load gauges is bad but we never watch it when we are welding anyway. I'm pretty happy with it so far but have a little more invested then I wanted (about $4k counting the water cooler). We haven't even thought about reaching it's duty cycle with the cooler in place.

I do need a few sticks of titanium wire if you ever get any samples or sell to a shop that uses it and can afford to sell a few sticks.
 
sean,

how about a video on how you get the bike on the center stand :) makes me want to rip my stock exhaust off since it gets in the way ;)
 
dang, where were you when the sucker needed a motherboard. They shafted me for $700 for that sucker (installed). I think one of my load gauges is bad but we never watch it when we are welding anyway. I'm pretty happy with it so far but have a little more invested then I wanted (about $4k counting the water cooler). We haven't even thought about reaching it's duty cycle with the cooler in place.

I do need a few sticks of titanium wire if you ever get any samples or sell to a shop that uses it and can afford to sell a few sticks.

lol... Titanium... Unfortunately we can't get just a few rods and for some reason they won't send us samples... lol

Next time you need something let me know... I can at least tell you where they are in price...
 
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