Water in clutch 1995 1200 V-max

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jbooh01

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I bought a bike that had been in the weather, it had water in the oil, changed the oil 3 times seems to have almost solved issue, except I have a clear clutch cover and can see small amounts of clear water, I pulled the clutch pack soaked it reinstalled, but still see water, is this condensation?
 
The bike runs fine, presently I'm fixing the master and slave for the clutch ...both shot
 
If there are only trace amounts of water, why not ride it for like 100M, that way any remaining water will evaporate. For that though, you do need a working clutch...
 
Is there colored coolant in the radiator? Normally there shouldn't be any water able to get in the oil unless you had a blown head gasket.

What is a 'small amount of clear water?' Any chance this bike was submerged? After the running bike is up to temperature, is there any white steam out of the exhaust when you hit the throttle?

FYI, 'reverse-bleeding' using a large syringe will be much quicker when you bleed the clutch slave cyl. Search reverse-bleed on here. A short explanation:

Drain the master cylinder, and reverse bleed the clutch at the left engine cover slave cylinder bleeder nipple. Search on here for the process, it doesn't take much in equipment you don't already have, and it's the quickest, fastest way to remove air in your lines, and to purge the system of contaminated brake fluid.

You are using a large capacity syringe fastened to the slave cyl bleeder nipple opened, to push fresh brake fluid into the brake syatem and into the handlebar master cyl. You keep pushing syringes-full into the lower bleeder nipple until the handlebar clutch master cyl is full of fresh brake fluid, clear. You may have to remove the fluid from the emptied handlebar master cyl, as you push the fresh fluid to displace the old fluid, upwards and into the handlebar master cyl. Remove the contaminated dirty fluid as necessary to allow the system to be completely purged of it.

Replace the master cyl reservoir cap, with the reservoir about 2/3 to 3/4 filled, past the 1/2-way point on your window for fluid level on the front side of the master cyl. Rapidly fan the clutch lever repeatedly, and you should feel the resistance move the 'friction-point' of the lever disengagement from that prior 'close to the handlebar' point, to beginning when you are about 1" from the handlebar on your initial lever pull, and pretty much disengaged as you move past 1/2-way lever travel.
 
Thank you Fire Medic! around of a spoonful of water , I'll run it
as far as bleeding, when reverse bleeding to I engage the clutch lever when I'm pushing fluid in or leave it off
 
Some condensation is normal and with a clear cover you will see that which is normally not visible.

If motors are regularly run without getting to full operating temperature the water will build up and start to form an emulsion with the oil.

For this reason it is not a good idea to make regular short runs.

Once the engine is up to normal operating temperature any water will boil off and your cover will (should) clear.

For the reverse bleeding the lever needs to be in the rest position. Make sure you keep am eye on the reservoir as it is very easy to fill this up as to pump the fluid in.
An assistant with another syringe to remove this fluid is a benefit.
 
Mr. Midnight answered as I would have, good directions. Lever left alone until the top reservoir is filled, from the reverse-bleed, then the reservoir top screwed back on, and then 'fan' rapidly multiple times the clutch, and you should get a firm lever.
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I agree with Mr Fire-medic if the system is empty.

If you are purging old fluid then you would need to keep pumping the new fluid in until it has displaced all of the old.
This may necessitate draining some from the reservoir until the fluid is clear.

Once you are all bolted up then tie the lever back overnight.
I don't know how but this can purge any remaining air.
 

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