Question about Coolant tube

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D-Max2012

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Hey Guys,
You know that coolant tube that has the pet cock valve? It has a 90 degree angle in it, that leads to the lower thermostat housing?

While trying to put my radiator back on, after installing my replacement mufflers / headers, I noticed that there is a single bolt that looks to be holding the housing in place.. The other bolt head looks like the PO snapped it off or something.
1 of 3.jpg 2 of 3.jpg 3 of 3.jpg

The weird part is, when looking at the parts list on the internet, it looks like there is only one bolt shown.. So, I don't know if the PO messed me up and snapped off the bolt head and did not mention it, or is it supposed to be that way.Boats_Net.jpg


Now for the main question.. That L-Tube coming out of the lower thermostat housing, Is that thing just held in place with O-Rings or something? It moves pretty easily if you disconnect the lower radiator tubes. There is a light leak that stops if I re-position the tube. I'm wondering if the O-Rings needs replacing??
 
There are 2 bolts for the thermostat housing. The elbow has an o-ring and a bracket should be on the pipe and held in place by the broken right screw.


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That's got to be fixed or the tubing will leak. Heat those bolts (don't over do it) before removing them, they are aluminum and shear easy. A little pencil butane torch is perfect. Hopefully there is enough sticking out to grab onto after removing the other. If broken off flush, use the housing for a guide for your drill to get a good center. Then drill and tap. Never-seize on the bolts.
 
That's got to be fixed or the tubing will leak. Heat those bolts (don't over do it) before removing them, they are aluminum and shear easy. A little pencil butane torch is perfect. Hopefully there is enough sticking out to grab onto after removing the other. If broken off flush, use the housing for a guide for your drill to get a good center. Then drill and tap. Never-seize on the bolts.

Hard telling what kind of material the bolts are Steve-o....there's a regular hex head on the left side in place of the allen bolt, somebody's been messing with it.

Looking at the price list for part #25 they indicate that (2) bolts are required even tho only (1) is shown....makes it a little confusing. :ummm:
 
Heat those bolts (don't over do it) before removing them, they are aluminum and shear easy.
Aluminum Bolts?? Held up from 1991, from a Japanese Motorcycle Co.?
I would think, if anyone used an aluminum bolt in there, it would not last the installation process. :biglaugh:

there's a regular hex head on the left side in place of the allen bolt, somebody's been messing with it.

Yes, you're right. The parts list, looks like a Cap-Head Allen bolt 6mm x 20. The Previous Owner must have tampered with it, broke one off, and replaced the other with something laying around. (Man.. If I could buy a new Max at a decent price,,, No more of this tampered with shit you find with a used bike)..

So, I'll look to order the correct clamp (if I can find the part #),and O-Rings. Being that it's been working since I got the bike, I'll hold off fooling around with it, till after Thunder.

Anti-Seize is a good call.. I plan to get some today and go over those cap head screws, holding the rear heat shields in place. The old ones broke off with little effort, causing me to purchase replacement rear headers. WHAT A P.I.T.A. PUTTING THOSE THING IN PLACE-- OMG!!!!.:bang head::damn angry:
 
I'm wondering if the O-Rings needs replacing??

With all the manipulation that went on in that area I'd say yes, replace the o-rings

So, I'll look to order the correct clamp (if I can find the part #),and O-Rings.

I think that clamp is part of the 'L' section pipe....unfortunately. Think I have an old bent one around here somewhere....if I can find it I'll verify the clamp info.
 
.if I can find it I'll verify the clamp info.
That would be great.. Let me know either way.. I'm checking multiple year Vmax's and no dice so far..
Thanks
 
That would be great.. Let me know either way.. I'm checking multiple year Vmax's and no dice so far..
Thanks

Agh! I can't find the bastard, maybe I finally chucked it....wasn't any good anyhow, but I'm quite sure the clamp had one spot weld attaching it to the 'L' shaped pipe....and the fact that the parts suppliers don't show the clamp either with a separate part number or a part included with the assembly I'd say that pretty well verifies it.

I'll keep poking around but it don't look good....sorry. :worthy:
 
Upon further review......the clamp is not spot welded to the pipe. I removed the bolt and lo & behold the clamp pivoted on the pipe.

I don't think it's removable from the pipe tho, it's very tight and the two ends (where the bolt goes thru) don't appear to split apart....maybe that's where the spot weld is... :confused2:
 

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Danny, thanks for checking..

I think my biggest hurtle would be getting the hex bolt out, then, removing the snapped off one.. IF I can get those freed up, I can make a clamp out if stainless steel or something, to hold that pipe in place.
 
Hard telling what kind of material the bolts are Steve-o....there's a regular hex head on the left side in place of the allen bolt, somebody's been messing with it.

Looking at the price list for part #25 they indicate that (2) bolts are required even tho only (1) is shown....makes it a little confusing. :ummm:

Stand corrected on the aluminum. Soft and shear off easy though.
 
Well, Did some research and found the Drain Cock Assembly is what it's called.

Yamaha 1FK-12560-01-00 DRAIN COCK ASY

Found it on Boats.net and Ebay.. Since I'm "screwed" with that broken bolt for now, (no pun intended),, I'll just look to replace the o-rings inside the housing and worry about doing it right, later this year..
It looks like a basic bracket that's free sliding.. Not welded or anything..
Doesn't look like there are any O-ring races in the fitting, so it should slide right out..

Pet Cock valve pipe from boats_net.jpg Pet Cock valve pipe from boats_net 2.jpg

Heading out to get some coolant in a few.
 

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