Need help syncing carbs

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ok cool thanks donny that's right, carb 2 (should be carb 1 as in, it's kinda the carb leader).

ok so CW (towards carb #1) will increase air output pressure (make fluid go down) whatever out of carb #1.

so turn in the direction of the carb you want to increase output (at least on left side of bike.)

is this is same for right side of bike ? also, a CW turn will do what to the fluid sets (1&2, 3&4) on that front sync screw on right side.... ? will a CW turn increase left or right side sets?

Isn't there anyone within riding distance that can lend him a carb-tune for a few minutes?
 
With your set up, I'd take the stage 7 kit out and make sure, like Mike mentioned, the v-Boost works normally, or is closed when syncing. I don't like bringing a vmax to a dealer. Unless there is a mechanic there familiar with them.147-150 Mikuni mains will work. Slip ons like Eric explained, are restricting. Or, if you want the performance and weight savings, buy a full header system.

Steve-o



I know this is an old post but I had to ask why must the vboost be closed while syncing? If we run them open and unplugged, why do we need to plug them in and close them to sync just to reverse it? Seems like you would get a false outcome from the sync? I ask because I really don't know and would like to, and when I sync mine, I'd like to do it the correct way.


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I know this is an old post but I had to ask why must the vboost be closed while syncing? If we run them open and unplugged, why do we need to plug them in and close them to sync just to reverse it? Seems like you would get a false outcome from the sync? I ask because I really don't know and would like to, and when I sync mine, I'd like to do it the correct way.


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When the boost is open you get pulses from different cylinders making it hard to isolate and sync each carb to one another. I've herd of it being done, with boost open and with the Carb-tune, but I had no success that way. What we're doing is getting all the throttle plates in the same position, opening at the exact time. It makes a real difference in how the engine runs. Throttle response especially. I like to sync my own a little off idle, for a nice crisp throttle.
Steve-o
 
That makes sense. So the guys running the vboost delete, or the different intake have to sync individually? And by a little off idle, you mean like 1500rpm range?


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It's pretty much impossible to sync the Gen 1 with the open tube connectors like a Dynojet Stage 7 kit provides. I've left my boost valving in place and simply disconnect the connector to it when the valve cycles open after key on.
My old XJ inline 4 Yamaha has a pee hole pipe system connecting the intakes, aptly named YICS, or Yamaha Induction Control System. It supposedly allows pulses between cylinders to assist in swirling the combustion chamber air fuel mix. Nothing as large as the Vmax ports. Its difficult to sync without the YICS block off tool, it can be done, but not fun.
 
I had the blue liquid Motion Pro units and the liquid developed bubbles and were a pain to maintain. I ended up purchasing these unit and they work great. I admit, a bit more difficult to "see" the balance rather than tubes lined up parallel, but it does the job, and I needn't worry about liquids any longer. Mercury units are NICE,but that is not allowed in Canada any longer.
https://www.amazon.ca/Universal-Motorcycle-Carburetor-Synchronizer-Synchronization/dp/B004MSJ7E6
 
It's pretty much impossible to sync the Gen 1 with the open tube connectors like a Dynojet Stage 7 kit provides. I've left my boost valving in place and simply disconnect the connector to it when the valve cycles open after key on.
My old XJ inline 4 Yamaha has a pee hole pipe system connecting the intakes, aptly named YICS, or Yamaha Induction Control System. It supposedly allows pulses between cylinders to assist in swirling the combustion chamber air fuel mix. Nothing as large as the Vmax ports. Its difficult to sync without the YICS block off tool, it can be done, but not fun.



Here's another question for you.. I read in another post and seen dyno charts of better hp with vboost on. What's your opinion on that? I also see that mid range hp is lost when vboost is unplugged and open fully.


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