Setting dry float levels on the bench

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I wish I could find the float "sticky" and the moon, and/or the casting block in your picture before I tear into my carbs. This is beginning to sound like a puzzle I had when I was a kid: "Can you find the float sticky in this picture?"
Help! This reference point in important!
 
I wish I could find the float "sticky" and the moon, and/or the casting block in your picture before I tear into my carbs. This is beginning to sound like a puzzle I had when I was a kid: "Can you find the float sticky in this picture?"
Help! This reference point in important!

DO NOT USE THE MARK ON THE CASTING BLOCK!!!

REPEAT

DO NOT USE THE MARK ON THE CASTING BLOCK

I have set up enough carbs to know that this mark can be way off if you are looking for accurate float levels and you should be looking for very accurate float levels. Use either method you see here, measuring from either the top or the bottom.
PM me if you have any questions.
 
One other thing that I've noticed when doing these carbs and has been confirmed. See the shape of the float and that casting mark circle on the jet block? When the float height is set correctly, the edge of the float will be exactly the same as the casting mark, like the edge of a circle on the edge of another circle. The carb on the right is set rich, and the one on the left is set lean, but close to where it should be (see the circular casting mark?)
Wouldn't the carb on the left be rich, and the one on the right lean?? the carbs would be turned over and the the float would close sooner on the the right one in the picture??
 
look how far the needle and seat stick out on the right carb compaired to the left ,,,,,WTF !!!And I don't have a gauge or caliper so what do I need to do now that I have them apart???
 
Hello Guys..
The settings are being made while the carbs are lying flat on a bench depressing the needle? or carbs at an angle so that floats stop as they touch the pin but not depress it?

Thanks...
 
My final check is wet. Pump cycled with the key. I'm sure most know this, but for those that don't here it is. I keep a glass jar in my tool box with a mark on it, made from draining a carb with a verified 17mm setting. Now I drain a carb, on the bike, into this jar and compare the level to the mark. I believe this to be an accurate and quick final or periodic check. First you'll have to do what Mark just showed you though. I've had my carbs on and off a few times to get it where I want it. It's worth the effort. And a big thank you to Mark Milne for all the carb tutorials over the years.
Steve-o
 
Did anyone else notice that in pic from the first thread that the brass seats for the needles are WAY off? And wouldn't that make a difference in dry measurments?
 
Did anyone else notice that in pic from the first thread that the brass seats for the needles are WAY off? And wouldn't that make a difference in dry measurments?

Very interesting observation. I can say that I never noticed that but the seats are definitely different heights.

IMO, I don't believe it would affect anything. The important part is having the correct fuel level in the bowls to feed the carbs different circuits. The needle and seats only job is to provide a on/off switch to fill the bowls. It should not matter where the seat is positioned, only that the fuel level is correct to feed the carb.

Thats my guess anyways!
 
Very interesting observation. I can say that I never noticed that but the seats are definitely different heights.

IMO, I don't believe it would affect anything. The important part is having the correct fuel level in the bowls to feed the carbs different circuits. The needle and seats only job is to provide a on/off switch to fill the bowls. It should not matter where the seat is positioned, only that the fuel level is correct to feed the carb.

Thats my guess anyways!

That IS very interesting! There is a significant difference in heights there....first thing that came to my mind is....is there a possibility that the seat on the right is far enough up in the carb body to partially block the fuel flow at the inlet?

Mike, I believe there would be a significant difference in fuel levels if each float were set at 1.125" from the carb body. Wouldn't these need to be set by 'trial & error' wet method?

I'm glad this observation was made....good eye moparmoot :clapping:, this would explain why some guys dry set all floats the same and then end up with mysteriously different wet levels on the double check.
 
but u also notice that the adjustment on the tab of the float is way different to compensate for that
 
I'm having the WORST time getting my floats right. I bought my bike new and it has NEVER been touched by anyone but myself. It always ran ok but that's not to say it didn't have issues, but since I've recently learned all this new found wealth (Thanx to this awsum sight and all involved, I wish I found this/you back in 04) anyway I have spent about 30 hours trying to get my levels right. (PITA!!!!) I'm much closer. I also figured out a way to check wet on the bench, by using a gravity feed fuel bottle, I'll report my findings when I get time to try it..
 
shouldnt be too bad setting dry on the bench with a vernier caliper. also along with casting mark as a backup reference, triple check with wet method and it should be right on the money
 
I'm having the WORST time getting my floats right. I bought my bike new and it has NEVER been touched by anyone but myself. It always ran ok but that's not to say it didn't have issues, but since I've recently learned all this new found wealth (Thanx to this awsum sight and all involved, I wish I found this/you back in 04) anyway I have spent about 30 hours trying to get my levels right. (PITA!!!!) I'm much closer. I also figured out a way to check wet on the bench, by using a gravity feed fuel bottle, I'll report my findings when I get time to try it..

Same way I do it but also push a little air down from the top to duplicate the fuel pump pressure....3 lbs. or something?

Actually, my float setting fuel feed bottle looks more like a bong from the far east than a fuel bottle!! :smoke000::biglaugh:
 
Same way I do it but also push a little air down from the top to duplicate the fuel pump pressure....3 lbs. or something?

Actually, my float setting fuel feed bottle looks more like a bong from the far east than a fuel bottle!! :smoke000::biglaugh:



mmm good description there dan-o, head far enough east and you end up west hahahaha
 
I'm having the WORST time getting my floats right. I bought my bike new and it has NEVER been touched by anyone but myself. It always ran ok but that's not to say it didn't have issues, but since I've recently learned all this new found wealth (Thanx to this awsum sight and all involved, I wish I found this/you back in 04) anyway I have spent about 30 hours trying to get my levels right. (PITA!!!!) I'm much closer. I also figured out a way to check wet on the bench, by using a gravity feed fuel bottle, I'll report my findings when I get time to try it..

It can be a job for the tenacious sometimes. I'll screw with them till I get them exactly where I want them, wet, and on the bike. It's so worth the trouble, but there is great info here that makes the job easier than going at it with just a shop manual and a prayer. I always check my bowl volumes before I yank the rack, and again as a final check.
Steve-o
 

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