Needed to find a bolt head that would fit the fork cap. I had one
close but not exact,( believe Maleko said it was 17mm) then
double nut it so your socket will fit on and spin it off. I was able
to impact the bolts at the bottom of the fork but I had to cut a
10mm allen wrench that was long enough to fit up in the bottom
of the fork. The allen will then fit in a 10mm socket. When reassembling
the damper requires 45lb of torque so I needed to make a damper
holding tool. Just went to the hardware store and picked up a
36 inch long 5/8 diameter piece of all thread and 4 nuts with
lock nuts. Could have used a 24 inch piece as Maleko posted. I
duct taped the rod shaft up to keep it from scratching the inner
fork tube. ( I just inserted the tool in the tube, flipped the fork
upside down so the tool end rested on the ground, put a wrench
on the end, set it against a concrete step to keep it from turning
and stood on it to keep it from moving and it worked fine.) Last for
a seal installer I picked up a 30 inch piece of 1 1/2 pcv pipe and
a coupler. ( one that joins the two) Take your upper fork tube
with you to get the right size, apparently there are two sizes and
one is too small. Even then it took me a while to sand the inside
with a dremell ( With a 12 flex extension) to get the pcv to slide
easily over the inner tube. Maybe somewhere out there you can
find a slightly larger inside diameter pcv pipe but thats all they had
at my hardware store. When you put the coupler on one end you
can use it to drive on the dust seal. ( Sean's design )
Be aware the sizes of allen wrench to release the damper and the
damper rod head size will be different on the newer bikes, mines a
89 with 40mm fork tubes. Dannymax just did his on a newer bike
and he would have the size for the newer bike. Make sure you
release the air in the forks 1st and give yourself some time. I read
3 hrs to do complete job, took me a lot longer but it was my 1st
time. Not hard just a learning experience.
Goodluck
Chris
