Setting dry float levels on the bench

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Ooops, mis-typed. I fixed my post. 1.125 is actually 17 mm.
 
Hello Guys
I figured out another way to check the float levels on the bench. It was easier for me.

You leave the carbs upside down like Mark does and let the weight of the float push the needle shut. Then measure from the top of the jet block down to the middle of the float. What this does is measure exactly what your fuel level will be when the carb is right side up full of fuel.

If you notice in the pics I have the depth gauge of my calipers set for 16 mm and it is just barely touching the top of the float right in the middle. I did this measurement and then I did Marks and wouldnt you know it, they both worked. I just found this one easier because the caliper was resting on top of the jet block.

I did find the casting mark on the jet block to be a good starting point but wasnt always exactly on.

Oh yeah if you are going to do a carb job do yourself a favor and replace all those stoooopidddd assss phillips head bolts with some button head caps, it makes life much easier later on.
 

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Hello Guys

If you notice in the pics I have the depth gauge of my calipers set for 16 mm and it is just barely touching the top of the float right in the middle. I did this measurement and then I did Marks and wouldnt you know it, they both worked. I just found this one easier because the caliper was resting on top of the jet block.

Looks great - I'll be sure to try that next time I have carbs out and compare to the castings method for accuracy.

Thanx
 
I just adjusted the floats on my carbs. I used Sean Morley's advice and adjusted my dry level to 1.115". I verified the wet level measurement and all four carbs were exactly 16mm below the float bowl lines. 1.115" is nuts on the OEM specs.

If you want to ride a bit lean, adjust them to 1.125" dry or what ever you are comfortable with. Remember, if you are too lean, your carbs will starve for fuel in hard corners.

If you want to run rich, than adjust to 1.105 or what ever you are comfortable with. Too rich, then your pants leg will become a fuel sponge.

I couldn't verify RagingMain's measurement due to a different type of jet block. If you notice in his measurement pics, the jet block has a ring cast around the main jet. Well right above the main jet, that casted ring on the block has a flat spot and the bottom of the block (top of the picture) is flat all the way across. Well my blocks are not flat and even all the way across the bottom. The casted ring around the main jet on my jet blocks are a perfect circle with no flat spot at all. So, since there is a major bump, the 16mm measurement theroy is out the window for me.

By the way, turbostang, those are some of the best buttons I have ever seen....thank god for great buttons!!!!

If anything I said above is totally wrong, please be easy on me. I had a few "TOOLS" :icon_jook: before I wrote this......What's a guy supposed to do when there are cold tools in the fridge?:confused2:
 
Excellent! Doesn't reallly matter how it's done as long as the reference points are consistent. I believe the factory uses the casting mark on the jet block/float relationship since it's the quickest way to do it. Can you picture some Jap worker adjusting floats with a caliper after a sushi/sake lunch?
 
Good info. Mine were way off no matter how you measured them. I have noticed another mark that may be easier to read. The circle casting mark on the jet block right tube above the float (with carb inverted). After I set my levels to 1.125" I noticed that the bottom of the circle was level with the top of the float(remember carb inverted). I made sure that I was looking with the float and circle at eye level.
See how yours lines up.

Thanks all
Jim
 
Good info. Mine were way off no matter how you measured them. I have noticed another mark that may be easier to read. The circle casting mark on the jet block right tube above the float (with carb inverted). After I set my levels to 1.125" I noticed that the bottom of the circle was level with the top of the float(remember carb inverted). I made sure that I was looking with the float and circle at eye level.
See how yours lines up.

Thanks all
Jim



Can you get some pics on here of that??
 
I will try my cam and see. But if you look at the pics at the beginning of this article you can see the circles. Look at the casting circle they are using that is under the float on the center tube. Go to the top of the black float and to the right a little to the other tube. In his pics you can see the top part of the circle. If you bring the carb down untill your eye looks over the float flat then you see it just touches the bottom of the circle. I suggest you measure also to get your eyeball calibrated but after I did the first it was quick to st up the others. I still checked the measurements.

Jim
 
Re: Xtreme noobie question

You very carefully bend the little metal tabs on the floats until they sit at the right height.

That's why it's SO MUCH easier to to them on the bench - you have to keep assembling / disassembling if you need to adjust when checking them on the bike..
 
Ok not to ask a stupid question but wanted to get some clarification on this. When you take your wet meaurement and your viewing the fuel level in your clear line that you comparing to the line on the float marking, the fuel has an upward arching curve to it, i think they call that a parobolic curver or something like that. Anyhow are you meausring at the lowest part of that arc? I think the answer shoudl be yes but wanted to confirm. Thanks
 

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Good question, I'm sure our carb guru will have the answer. Just out of interest, how much is there in mm between the high and low points of the curve?

I'd say use the mid-point myself..
 
Ok not to ask a stupid question but wanted to get some clarification on this. When you take your wet meaurement and your viewing the fuel level in your clear line that you comparing to the line on the float marking, the fuel has an upward arching curve to it, i think they call that a parobolic curver or something like that. Anyhow are you meausring at the lowest part of that arc? I think the answer shoudl be yes but wanted to confirm. Thanks

You are correct.
When using any liquid level to determine its height you use the bottom of the curve. The small part of the curve is because of surface tension between the fluid and the tube. It is insignificant in the force it exerts downward.
Cheers
 
Hopefully I'm doing this correctly. I used the dry measurement of 1.115 but that seems to give me a 17mm wet reading, which I thought from reading would have generated a 16mm wet reading.
 
this is what i set my floats @, is that correct?
they are at 1.117"
 

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Yep, right on...I shoot for 1.115. Your pic was so good I replaced mine with it. Thanks!
 
Thanks, it obvious that its my first time using "Paint" to add text!
I think Ragingmain's way to measure is a little easier.
 
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