I think others have mentioned about the starter button sticking, which can kill your headlamp, as it's supposed to when you press the starter button. But if the button doesn't return to it's full-out position, your headlamp may not have juice to it.
Mr. Max Midnight also gave you good advice on the use of a multimeter, and about checking all your connectors and circuits. As he said, disconnecting them and re-connecting them several times will often allow any corrosion on the M-F pins to re-establish the electron flow. You did remember to fill your turn-signal fluid, didn't you? (belated April 1 post) While you have the connector apart, use a bit of dielectric grease in-there, goop a bit right onto the pins or the female pins, as it will help prevent corrosion in the future. You don't need much.
Something I use to clean the pins is an oxyacetylene torch tip cleaner set. The various tiny files in a set give you plenty of rough stuff to clean the female sockets while keeping them in-place in the nylon fuse block saves you time.
For the
male pins, I remove them from the nylon connector block, using a dental pick or a very small probe of some sort. What I usually do is to take a look for the wire crimp from the back side, and then, from the
opposite side where the nylon connector fastens together, I use the pick to depress the male pin in back, close to where the pin sits in the nylon connector,
and 180 degrees away from the position where the wire crimp is on the outside of the plug. You know how when you use a crimping tool where the tiny wire-securing 'ears' are flat, and then they fold inwards to secure a purchase on the wire, as in the stock electrical wire loom? That's what you want to look for to get the proper orientation for using the pick to depress the back of the pin. People who have worked on these nylon plugs can probably do it blindfolded, but if you don't know the 'trick,' you will become very frustrated and may rip-off the pin from the thin gauge wire. There is a metal 'tongue' on the pin, that when you insert the pin from the outside of the nylon connector, the 'tongue' will depress as it passes through the nylon connector body, and then spring-upwards to hold the pin in-place in the nylon connector body, at the proper point for the male and female nylon connectors to have all their many pins interlock.
Once you have depressed the pin's 'tongue,' a slight tug on the back side of the nylon connector, where the wire inserts into the nylon connector, will release/remove the pin for inspection, cleaning, and possibly replacement. Take a very close look at the wire crimp, you may find that some of the wire filaments have broken, and this could be part of your problem. You can also see where the metal connector crimp secures the wire, and you can see if the pin's 'tongue' is portruding sufficiently enough from the smaller pin diameter, so that after cleaning the pin with sandpaper or whatever, it will hold the pin in-place when you re-install it into the nylon connector.
The crimp-on individual metal connectors which are spade or bullet terminals, having usually a blue, red, or yellow plastic insulated collar, that we've all used to install car stereos, or do other electrical repairs,
are not the type of connector I'm referring to in the above description! Those just use a tit on the crimping pliers to deform the metal where the wire inserts through the connector to hold the wire secured, and especially over time, the connector becomes corroded, and the wire can break. Solder is the best way to connect wires for long service life.
One thing to look for is that the pin is indeed locked in-place by that little pin 'tongue' securely holding the pin in its place, and if you can give a slight tug, and the pin releases from the nylon connector, and is no-longer held inside the connector, you may need to look and see if you (1) pushed the male pin into the nylon connector sufficiently-far, or (2) you may need to find the pin 'tongue', and bend it outwards a bit, so it will catch the nylon connector body when you insert the male pin into the nylon connector body.
If you do this stuff in your sleep, then skip this post, but if you're learning about how to troubleshoot your bike's electrics, you will find this makes it much easier to clean your male pins by removing them, and cleaning the female pins by leaving them in the nylon connector, and by using an oxyacetylene torch tip cleaning set, which you can find ay Ace Hardware or a Home Depot/Lowe's, or similar for probably $5. A good investment, and used for cleaning out small orifices like small carb jets, but do not use the file part of the torch tip on your jets, just tje initial probe tip, which is smooth, and not rough.
I think Gannon sells pins sized for our nylon connectors, and even the nylon connectors in male/female configurations if you find one damaged, as in melted, like the stator connectors like to do, the three same-color wires from the stator should probably be soldered anyway, to prevent the poor connection, arcing, and overheating that the increased resistance of a loose, corroded connection can cause.
Here's another thread I wrote on a headlight malfunction:
http://vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=31075&highlight=chasing+tail
