How to measure wet float levels

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One photo coming right up.

The riser is a small glass tube with a mark made in the glass at 17mm down from the top...you want your fuel to be between 15mm & 17mm from the top of the glass tube.

Hook the other end to the drain elbow, open the drain screw and duplicate the fuel pump pressure for correct 'head'.
 

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One photo coming right up.

The riser is a small glass tube with a mark made in the glass at 17mm down from the top...you want your fuel to be between 15mm & 17mm from the top of the glass tube.

Hook the other end to the drain elbow, open the drain screw and duplicate the fuel pump pressure for correct 'head'.

THAT"S GOLD!!!!!!!!:clapping:
 
No videos-probably best you are going to get-----

file:///home/chronos/u-19cfb814f36b520531bd892406c822b5ca12d598/Downloads/Wet%20Float%20Measurement%20(1).pdf

There are 2 places to measure float height- one on the side of the carb with the level line and one on the float bowl with level line.
 
I've been asked how to do this and notice there isn't a sticky for this in the carbs section.

First, here's a link showing where the float bowl drain screws are:

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=1570

The line on the carb body to measure from is on the left side of each carb just rear of the slide cover. See below. The line is in between "Mikuni" and "Made in Japan".

floatmeasuringline.jpg


To measure, need some clear hose that'll fit over the drain tube nice and tight. One end of hose attaches to the drain tube. For the other end, measure 15 mm down from the end and mark it...I use electrical tape. Measure 17 mm down and mark again. You should now have a small window between the pieces of black tape...that's the range for fuel level to be in spec. Open drain screw. Cycle key on/off to keep float bowls full of fuel. Watch the clear hose and make sure no bubbles...raise tube up and down to get rid of any. Now, line the end of the hose with tape with the mark on the carb body. See if fuel is in the window...if it is you're in spec. If above window you're too rich and need to bend float tang out a bit. If below window to lean and need to push tang in slightly. I shoot for 17 mm since Vmax likes it on the lean side. I also ensure all four carbs read the same.

Mark
I'm reading with interest but where is the mark on the carb bodies I've looked in the workshop manual but image ain't that good can any one put a picture on here please
 
I'm reading with interest but where is the mark on the carb bodies I've looked in the workshop manual but image ain't that good can any one put a picture on here please

Look at the right hand carb in the photo....just under "Mikuni Corp." there is a raised tick mark about 1/2" long....you want your fuel levels to be 15mm - 17mm below that line.

Each carb has this mark on the left side of the slide/diaphragm cone facing the front of the carb,
 

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Danny posted this photo one page back.

Thanks Mike....guess my photos get worse as time goes on. :biglaugh:

Just went out in the shop and outlined the tick mark with a bit of chalk....maybe in this photo it will be a little easier to see.

All 4 carb bodies are basically identical, you will always find the tick mark on the left side of the cone, facing the slide cover.
 

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That's it in a nut shell. All you need to check the wet levels. I broke down and bought a graduated glass tube for this too,even though I usually only do my own carbs, it wasn't that expensive. I just always wanted one. Marked clear hose will do just fine. A things that can screw you up, an air bubble in the hose. Too long a hose is the culprit usually. Make sure the carb bowl is full on each carb before checking. If on the bike, cycle the pump to make sure. Once I have a carb dead on, where I want it, I drain into a small glass jar and mark it. Then I can use the jar for an easy quick check. It's all very necessary, and important to a good running Vmax.
Steve-o
 
That's it in a nut shell. All you need to check the wet levels. I broke down and bought a graduated glass tube for this too,even though I usually only do my own carbs, it wasn't that expensive. I just always wanted one. Marked clear hose will do just fine. A things that can screw you up, an air bubble in the hose. Too long a hose is the culprit usually. Make sure the carb bowl is full on each carb before checking. If on the bike, cycle the pump to make sure. Once I have a carb dead on, where I want it, I drain into a small glass jar and mark it. Then I can use the jar for an easy quick check. It's all very necessary, and important to a good running Vmax.
Steve-o

+1 Air bubbles are a major problem in checking wet levels...tapping with a screwdriver helps chase bubbles up the line, also the carbs being checked need to be dead nuts level.

If you are doing a wet level check with the carbs on the bike, draining the fuel from each carb into a glass jar could be off a little....as the fuel level drops the needles will open allowing some fuel to drain down from the connecting fuel lines above.
 

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