shane_desselle
Well-Known Member
I got it. I just used two glass pickle jars and transmission fluid. Synced them and the bike runs ALOT better. I'm gonna go see if i can get some first gear power wheelies now!
Help with homemade synchronizer
- Thread starter shane_desselle
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fatbiker
Well-Known Member
I dropped by Shane's house and took a look at his Max. The carbs were off a little bit but the bike is way short on power. He has a 4 into 2 Kerker exhaust plus a K&N filter with the Y removed from the airbox but I believe he has a stock carb setup. It idles great and runs smooth but has no pep and you can barely feel when the V Boost kicks in. My stock 2005 has tons more power and kicks hard when the V Boost engages. I thin his stock carbs are robbing him of power. I recommended he send them to DannyMax or Sean Morley for upgrades that will benefit the increased airflow his airbox and exhaust provide. Any suggestions on what needs to be done to the carbs?
Fatbiker
Fatbiker
shane_desselle
Well-Known Member
fatbiker, thanks for the assist, bro! I felt like the bike should have more power but i had no way to be sure since this is the only max I've ever ridden. U confirmed my suspensions.
Do them stock and change mains to smaller. Would be nice to know what needles are in there though.
fatbiker
Well-Known Member
I'm no pro but the needles look stock. It does not appear that the carbs have been upgraded in any way over stock. What size main's do you recommend Sean? Do you recommend we put the Y back in the airbox or leave it off?
DMAN999
Well-Known Member
As far as I know the Kerker 4-2's are just slip-ons, they do make a 4-1 full system though.
http://www.supertrapp.com/product_sections/cat.asp?CatID=15
They should work fine with the Stock jetting and airbox.
You should put the Y back on the airbox.
And you can go down from Mikuni 152.5 mains to Mikuni 150 mains but it isn't absolutely required.
I have Supertrapp slip-ons and they work well with the Stock jetting but are just a bit little rich.
I'll be putting in some 150 mains when I do my carb rebuild.
http://www.supertrapp.com/product_sections/cat.asp?CatID=15
They should work fine with the Stock jetting and airbox.
You should put the Y back on the airbox.
And you can go down from Mikuni 152.5 mains to Mikuni 150 mains but it isn't absolutely required.
I have Supertrapp slip-ons and they work well with the Stock jetting but are just a bit little rich.
I'll be putting in some 150 mains when I do my carb rebuild.
fatbiker
Well-Known Member
Thanks DMAN999! We'll put the Y back on the air box and see if that helps.
I would suggest the "Y" back in place as has been pointed out. I would use the 147.5 mains too.
shane_desselle
Well-Known Member
Ok, thanks. It would help if i had the y to put back on there though! Lol It was already taken off when i got the bike. Thanks for the advice. fatbiker has one he's going to sell me so hopefully this will work.
I have some around here I can donate to the cause.
shane_desselle
Well-Known Member
Sean, i would really appreciate that alot. Can u send it monday? This forum is awesome.
shane_desselle
Well-Known Member
Do u really think my problem can be solved this simple. I noticed that without the filter and airbox my bike would barely rev to 4 grand. Would getting too much air kill the power this way?
DMAN999
Well-Known Member
^ Yes too much air will definitely affect the power.
Make sure the rubber joints on the air box are fully seated on the carbs as well.
Air leaks there will affect how well it runs as well.
Our bikes will barely run without the air box on without the air restrictors used with the Stage 7 and Morley's Jet kits.
Make sure the rubber joints on the air box are fully seated on the carbs as well.
Air leaks there will affect how well it runs as well.
Our bikes will barely run without the air box on without the air restrictors used with the Stage 7 and Morley's Jet kits.
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The airbox "Y" will affect power but not in a huge manner. Email me at [email protected]
shane_desselle
Well-Known Member
Sean, i sent u an email. If there's anyone out there that feels like they might have a solution, plz feel free to call or text me anytime at 8324368644. I'd be completely in the dark if it wasn't for this forum. Other than dirtbikes, this is the first bike I've ever owned that wasn't fuel injected..
DMAN999
Well-Known Member
^ Sean's right.
Having the Y off will affect power a little but won't make a huge difference.
And like I said, check for air leaks on ALL the carb boots and check for exhaust leaks as well.
You also might want to do the Shotgun Idle circuit cleaning just to see if it helps:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/55030067/Shooting%20the%20Shotgun%20-%20LvLHead.pdf
I'd check the cylinders temps after the bike is warmed up and make sure it is firing on all 4 and not just 3.
And testing the plugs to be sure they are all in good shape and are all firing.
Having the Y off will affect power a little but won't make a huge difference.
And like I said, check for air leaks on ALL the carb boots and check for exhaust leaks as well.
You also might want to do the Shotgun Idle circuit cleaning just to see if it helps:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/55030067/Shooting%20the%20Shotgun%20-%20LvLHead.pdf
I'd check the cylinders temps after the bike is warmed up and make sure it is firing on all 4 and not just 3.
And testing the plugs to be sure they are all in good shape and are all firing.
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
+1....check for leaks first, and do the shotgun. My Vmax...actually picked up 2 hp by taking the Y off at the dyno, and so I rode around with it like that for about a year until I picked up Seans kit.
shane_desselle
Well-Known Member
How can i check the temps on the cylinders?
DMAN999
Well-Known Member
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
What I used was just a 35 dollar IR temp gun from harbor freight. The stock exhaust is double walled....and I dont know how well that will do, but I know that it works great with aftermarket exhaust.
Remember, lean burns hot, and rich burns cooler. I got all of mine withing 50 degrees of each other, and measure about the same distance on the headers. I took temps about an inch coming out of the head.
Remember, lean burns hot, and rich burns cooler. I got all of mine withing 50 degrees of each other, and measure about the same distance on the headers. I took temps about an inch coming out of the head.
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