Re: same old jetting questions :(

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Ok....so my suggestion is 150's, needle 2nd clip from the blunt end, and put the stage 7 springs in. If you try to run drilled slides with stock springs, they can flight each other, because the slide wants to come open, and the stock spring (stronger) will try to keep them closed and it will cause a fluttering effect.

So, strictly my suggestion....and see how it works.
 
NOPE....leave the 170's in there.....there bike will run better. I had only ASKED if you had changed PAJ#2.

So, go 150's main jet, clip 2 groove from the blunt end, and leave the 170's in PAJ#2. During the last dyno run, 147's gave me an A/F of 13.4....and 152's an A/f of 13.0....I'm at 1100 feet. Thats why I'm saying the 150's main jet.
 
I didn't know the stock PJ#2 were 170's? I was looking at what I had recieved in the kit and saw 147.5,150, 155, 157.5, 160, 177. I can change the mains out to the 150's pretty easy, and adjust the needles to 2nd clip from blunt end or back of needle. I have the stage 7 springs in currently... I need to go pick up some more Blue fluid for my pro tune.. Not planning on playing with the carbs for hours tonight. This should take less than an hour..
 
Re: same old jettinRuns good g questions :(

NOPE....leave the 170's in there.....there bike will run better. I had only ASKED if you had changed PAJ#2.

So, go 150's main jet, clip 2 groove from the blunt end, and leave the 170's in PAJ#2. During the last dyno run, 147's gave me an A/F of 13.4....and 152's an A/f of 13.0....I'm at 1100 feet. Thats why I'm saying the 150's main jet.

+1 to Traumahawk's info. I just rejetted mine to the above but needles at 2 plus a shim to get 2.5. 800ft el. Morley kit, HMF exhaust. Runs good. :eusa_dance:

Dale
 
I did this last night 150 mains, 2nd slot for clip..... I had to reorder fluid for my motion pro gage #2 carb sucked it up before I put the 150's in. Noticed I have a issue with the A/F screw on #2 carb. it might have stripped out threads in carb. I am going to use a scrib and see if there is something in there that isn't supposed to be. I can only get it to turn about 4 turns before it's seated and I feel the spring if I push on the screw when its tightened in.. I have another body but it has some issues. If I can't get it to work right I will try the other body or buy a used good body from someone... I will research it more tonight. Hopefully with out getting yelled at to come eat dinner/ she always bugs me when I am in knee deep...
 
Four turns should be lots. Prob be 2-3 turns out tops if all is dialed in....
 
Got everything together and sync'd last night. Running by a buddies after work to have him verify. I did notice it seemed like it was starving for fuel with minor acceleration from 3-4.5k, beside that it pulls great and doesn't feel like its missing anymore.. Oh and I think I finally got my Motion Pro gauges to work correctly- had to empty out what fuild I had and refill it.. still a pain in the ass...I am wishing I hadn't taken 8 years to sync my carbs...lol, I guess I shouldn't be nervous about messing with things or double checking them even when they seem Ok. Oh I have all the A/F screws at 2.5 turns....
 
Try about 3 turns out on all 4 and go from there. Heck, even on mine I have the front at 3 turns out, and the rear at 3.5.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top