Charging System

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racerboy

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Good morning everybody,
My bike is 11 yrs old now, so Im going to replace all the electrical components to prevent any future issues. Starter / relay, voltage Reg/rect., generator, already relocated the R/R to the tail piece of the grab handle, in fact, looks good there.
My thoughts are strictly preventative. Maybe over kill, but I believe it to be a good idea, I did this to my race bikes, due in part to high heat at a race pace. The one thing I noticed just yesterday, sitting at a light, in neutral, I could see that the green neutral light was fluctuating with the idle going dim and then brighten up, I turned on a blinker it dimmed as well as the flasher cycled. I chkd the charge across the battery, 14.85 and steady, pls advise.
 
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Have you done the crimp fix in the wire harness? A marginal battery will cause you grief. Remove all your grounds, clean them, use some dielectric grease, and reattach.
 
Have you done the crimp fix in the wire harness? A marginal battery will cause you grief. Remove all your grounds, clean them, use some dielectric grease, and reattach.

+1, dielectric grease is a godsend for Vmax's! I make sure that every time I have a electrical connection apart I make sure to add some before finishing the connection. No need to go overboard with it, use just enough to cover the crimp/ attachment point with a light coating.
 
You upgraded and moved the voltage regulator? Hopefully, you ran the red and black output wires directly to the battery. And put a fuse inline as a precaution.. 30 amp fuse is what most of us that have done the mod use.
 
You upgraded and moved the voltage regulator? Hopefully, you ran the red and black output wires directly to the battery. And put a fuse inline as a precaution.. 30 amp fuse is what most of us that have done the mod use.
Thxs Bill, I will do that instead, run the wire directly to the battery, did the crimp. BTW, all I did was add extra wiring between the plugs and the module. So what your saying is to wire the red and black to the positive and negative battery terminals with an inline 30amp?
 
Exactly. This actually negates the need for the "crimp fix", as that repair was intended to lessen the resistance from the output of the regulator to the battery.

Use heavy gauge wiring, and solder any connections you make. A crimp connection is asking for a later problem, in my opinion.

Be sure the 3 white wires leaving the stator are well connected to the regulator. The connector that was used originally is a real trouble spot. AS it ages, and gets corroded, the resistance in the connector rises, and the connector gets hot - sometimes getting hot enough to melt. Solder the 3 wires, or use PosiLock connectors. Being 3-phase AC coming out of the stator, the 3 wires to the regulator from the stator can be connected in any order...

I've had an '85 since it was new, and lived years with lousy charging systems. Now with a high output stator, a Series regulator, and direct to battery wiring, I get over 14 volts right off idle.
 

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