headlight burning out

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TacNom

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I have an 89 Vmax that has burnt out two headlight bulbs in two days. I put the new one in drove to the end of my drive and it burnt out. Turn around park the bike and check my fuses they are all good (10a). the only thing that has changed recently was a new battery about two weeks ago. Any ideas?
 
Best guess would be that your r/r isn't. May well also explain the demise of your battery.
Check the battery voltage which should be between 14 & 15V @ 5000 r.p.m.
 
ok, I'll check battery voltage. I forgot to mention in my OP that I replaced the R/R earlier this year.
 
Read up on the posted threads about MOSFET and Series voltage regulators. If your stock unit is kaput, this is a good inexpensive upgrade..
 
But I bet that ol' bulb was the brightest you'd ever seen it, before it popped!

Yep, sounds like the regulator/rectifier sending an overcharge to the battery & accessories.
 
Predawn light unfortunately... Didn't get to benefit from the 30 seconds of ultra brightness. Haha.
So. New question? If the r/r is overcharging enough to pop my bulbs...why is it not blowing the fuse first?
 
What size is the fuse? I'd could have the wrong size.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
 
Fuses fail due to high amperage, not voltage. I believe the fuse protects against a regulator shorting out internally, causing a ground short..
 
10 amp fuse... Which after looking at diagrams I believe may be too small?
Voltage, amperage it's all so confusing lol
 
Yep, should be 15 amp. This is how it was taught to me. Think of the wiring like a garden hose. Voltage is like the amount of water pressure thru the hose. Current (amps) is like the water flow thru the hose.
 
Fuses fail due to high amperage, not voltage. I believe the fuse protects against a regulator shorting out internally, causing a ground short..

The amperage will go up with the voltage. I would worry that if the voltage was too high due to a defective RR, a headlight bulb could be the cheapest thing to get roasted.

Also could be cheap bulbs.
 
The first bulb was stock replacement, the second was a Sylvania. That was another thought I had... Why is it only the headlight going and not everything else?
 
Just a quick update for anyone wanting to know, I finally found my elusive multimeter and put it on my battery. 13v w/ key off. 16.5 volt w/ engine idling at 1,000 rpm. So, off with the old (6 month old) R/R and ordering a new MOSFET type R/R. Hopefully this will be the end of my charging woes. I have spent more time taking this old bike apart and putting her back together than I have spent riding this year...
 
Ah, the 'fun and joy' of fettling an older bike...

In Forrest Gump, during his marathon running period, he tells a guy trying to come-up with a slogan, "it happens."

Be sure and get the yellow t-shirt with the mud-caked design that Forrest uses to clean himself after being splashed by a vehicle crossing a mud puddle. Thaat will indicate your satisfaction with you now fully-operable, oil light flickering ride.
 
Ah, the 'fun and joy' of fettling an older bike...

In Forrest Gump, during his marathon running period, he tells a guy trying to come-up with a slogan, "it happens."

Be sure and get the yellow t-shirt with the mud-caked design that Forrest uses to clean himself after being splashed by a vehicle crossing a mud puddle. Thaat will indicate your satisfaction with you now fully-operable, oil light flickering ride.

Ah, thanks Fire-medic for the words of wisdom. Don't get me wrong, I love tinkering but I think I enjoy riding more ;-) Oh well, like you said before I know it I'll be back on the road marveling at my flickering oil light. I usually just tell my friends that is the boost light... :punk:
 
Actually, it essentially is the VBOOST light!

Ah, thanks Fire-medic for the words of wisdom. Don't get me wrong, I love tinkering but I think I enjoy riding more ;-) Oh well, like you said before I know it I'll be back on the road marveling at my flickering oil light. I usually just tell my friends that is the boost light... :punk:
 

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