How to: Fix your Vmax's low voltage or charging problems

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I think I found the rr if its the unit behind the rear passenger foot peg.It has a few wires coming out of it.It has no fins .
 
I am looking to get more volts to charge the battery .My pic looks nothing like the one in this article.

It wouldn't, since I converted to coil-on-plug ignition. Perhaps I should have been a bit clearer on that. My replacement rectifier is now where the rear coils used to be. Other than the different pictures, the text applies to any vmax.

The box behind the passenger peg is the rectifier as described in the original post.
 
The battery cold is putting out12.8 at 1000 rpm its 13.2 ant at 2500 its about 13.7 .is that ok for now?.
 
That should be fine for now. It's not optimal but for Yamaha wiring that's probably about as good as it gets.
 
Is their wiring a little sub par?.I when I rode snowmobiles years ago we used to pic on my one buddy cause he always rode Yamahas and he broke down a lot.This is my third Yamaha and, I have had good luck with them so far.
 
In my experience Yamaha tends to be cheap with wiring...every Yamaha I've had tends to have less-than-ideal voltage, be it bikes, snowmobiles, jetskis, outboards, ect. Compared to my '85 Magna, which was original stator, r/r, and wiring, and put a perfect 14.4 to the battery AND headlight....no "vanishing voltage" that I've noticed on every Yamaha I've had reason to test.
 
Sooo, is there an upgraded complete harness for the vmax?
Later year harnesses better?
Anybody made one from scratch?
What's the best solution/easiest?

This might be after the crimp fix, replacing r/r, etc,etc,etc...:ummm:
 
I have found new r/rs on ebay that plug right in for the Max would these bring the voltage up ?.

Potentially, but there are many factors that influence this as detailed in the first post. I listed solutions in what I take to be the best order to proceed....cheapest(free) to priciest.


The harness changed for '90 to accept the new digital ignition box, and some wire colors varied a bit over the years(the wires to the coil power on my bike are not the colors stated in the manual), but other than that I'm not aware of any changes or revisions to the harness. The 06 still has the "crimp" in the charging circuit, and from what I've heard still magically lose voltage between the battery and loads.

I tried to "re-harness" an old LT230 quad that had so many electrical problems I decided to just re-do it, couldn't be that complicated, right? Even on that...which is probably the most basic engine circuit...battery, starter, stator, CDI box, headlight, tail light. I realized I was going to need probably $100 of wire and hours if not a few days to do it....it was a lot more involved than I thought and given the quad was worth essentially nothing I didn't bother. I cobbed and shorted it back to running again.

The best you can do is get your charging system 100%, 14.4 at the battery, that's what really matters. Slight losses to the lights and accessories are annoying but really don't affect much(other than my blinkers would wig out from low voltage).
 
It wouldn't, since I converted to coil-on-plug ignition. Perhaps I should have been a bit clearer on that. My replacement rectifier is now where the rear coils used to be. Other than the different pictures, the text applies to any vmax.

The box behind the passenger peg is the rectifier as described in the original post.



How does this setup work on the max
 
I did the R1 mod 04 YZF R1 Rectifier and Morley's big battery box mod also. Soldered the wires at the stator connection, went straight to the battery from rectifier + and - connections(fused 30 AMP+). I have a solid 14.4 with fan on @ 2500 RPM's. I couldn't be happier with my charging system and the bike spins over like a Mack truck, even hot.
 
How does this setup work on the max

Excellent, though pretty much any modern R/R will work. They all do the exact same thing in the exact same way. I just picked the Ninja one because it happened to fit nicely on the coil plate to mount it.
 
Excellent, though pretty much any modern R/R will work. They all do the exact same thing in the exact same way. I just picked the Ninja one because it happened to fit nicely on the coil plate to mount it.


What I meant was how do the coil over plugs set up work and why is it needed?.:ummm:
 
How do they work? You plug 'em in, LOL. There is a sticky in one of the forums (maybe user mods?) on how to install them yourself. Or, you can buy a whole "kit". I believe Sean Morley is selling the kits now. The kit has everything you need including the COPs.

Why are they needed? They aren't. It is an economical solution to replacing coils and spark plug wires and get newer technology.
 
Why are they needed? They aren't. It is an economical solution to replacing coils and spark plug wires

yep, the stock blocks are notorious for developing cracks in their bodies. I know three of my four are cracked--dunno 'bout the #3's. some guys will epoxy them shut, which is good enough for some--for folks like me, it ain't. however, depending on where you go, it could be anywhere 'tween 60-70 bucks each (plus shipping) to replace them; whereas you can get 4 COPs for around 40-50 bucks. course there's the startup cost (harness and such), but when a COP goes bad, it's as simple as pop of the bad COP, disconnect it, connect on the gooden and push it on. To change out a bad OEM ignition block it as bad as pulling teeth from a gator--have a look here at naughtyG's write up to understand what I mean: Installing COPs inc. removing OEM coils pt1

...and get newer technology.
some guys are reporting by-the-seat-of-their-pants sensations of slightly heightened performance from easier start-ups to a little peppier throttle punch.
 
Sooo, is there an upgraded complete harness for the vmax?
Later year harnesses better?
Anybody made one from scratch?
What's the best solution/easiest?

This might be after the crimp fix, replacing r/r, etc,etc,etc...:ummm:
There is a V max ground cable kit you can buy for 23.50 .Do a search on google and you will find it.
 
I did the 30 amp fuse fix and the bike puts out 14 volts now but I was wondering would it help to do the crimp at this point or no?.Thanks.
 

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