Still having throttle lag, safety concern

So I did everything under the sun, and now the bike can dependably get me from A to B :eusa_dance:

Unfortunately, this throttle lag is still a pretty big safety concern.

Keep in mind this is a Vgas set up

IE: I rode to school today since I saw high of 40 and no rain, on the way home, a car in front of my brake checked me, so I quickly downshifted and hit the breaks.. All well and good didn't hit the car.

But when I went to continue in the gear I was in (first gear, checked) the bike had a terrible version of what it normally does and wouldn't make it to the point it starts accelerating and I almost got rear ended, then I had to pull in the clutch, get the throttle to 3k and try feathering the clutch out to make an emergency turn.

Either way, I'm assuming the carbs are either running rich or lean...

When it's dark and at idle (all warmed up, of course) if I blip the throttle I can see blue fire come out of one carb at a time.

On top of that, seemingly from ANY rpm I can start to accelerate and the following will happen:

- Cruising at 3k for instance, go to accelerate
- The bike will drop or stay the same in power/rpm while I twist it for about 2-3k rpm worth. If the rpm stays the same, it sounds noticably worse like it's not running right.
- Eventually, something will catch up with something else if it makes it that far and it will do a quick jolt and start accelerating.

In the case I wrote about on my way home, the bike never made it to the point that it jolts and accelerates and instead was about to stall, hence me pulling the clutch in.

Thanks for any advice or tips, guys! unk:

This thread makes me feel like it's a severe lean bog... but one wrong assumption and I could be frying a piston or just making it worse.

http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/forum/archive/index.php/t-2463.html

Is there any way to get an accurate a/r ratio from exhaust without a dyno? Does anyone around here happen to have an a/f ratio gauge I could use?

Accidental extra comment lol

I'm pretty sure Traumahawk has a wideband A/F monitor always hooked up. I'm sure he'll read this soon enough, and let you know what he's got.

Sounds like the carbs low speed circuits and jets are dirty. The very tiny orfices are the first thing to clog as time passes since fresh. How long ago were these carbs fresh?
If pea shooter or shotgun methods don't help, ya gonna hafta bite the bullet, and figure out how to come up with freshened and synced carbs, to get it to run right.

davesax36 said:

I'm pretty sure Traumahawk has a wideband A/F monitor always hooked up. I'm sure he'll read this soon enough, and let you know what he's got.

Click to expand...

Awesome, thanks!

wayne z said:

Sounds like the carbs low speed circuits and jets are dirty. The very tiny orfices are the first thing to clog as time passes since fresh. How long ago were these carbs fresh?
If pea shooter or shotgun methods don't help, ya gonna hafta bite the bullet, and figure out how to come up with freshened and synced carbs, to get it to run right.

Click to expand...

Possibly, but I just dropped them down and took off the bowls and cleaned two of the pilots (crappy screwdriver couldn't get the other two) and all the main jets. I adjusted the fuel and air screws to what the UFO guys told me (3/4 out for air, 1 full turn out for fuel)

But I mean besides that, I don't have compressed air for shotgun and pea shooter. If worse comes to worst I'll save up and buy a full rebuild kit for each and rebuild them (I'll have to get the recommended jets and stuff from someone on here)

I was hoping to avoid that somehow :/

You can use a bicycle pump for the air.

blaxmax said:

You can use a bicycle pump for the air.

Click to expand...

Ohh ok I didn't know that! Do the peashooter/shotgun method(s) work on the Vgas carbs too?

Thanks!

If you have a can of compressed air (for cleaning out computers/ electronics) would also do the trick.