Paintball regulators

Can any one point me in the right direction for a decent paintball regulator & bottle for my shifter. I went to MRE today & bought all the rest of the stuff.

I almost hate to say it but Craigslist usually have a sh$tload of paintball items for cheap. Some of it pretty fancy billet and anodized. Hopefully someone is close to you. Then again, ebay has everything and many with free shipping if you know what you want/need.

I can get them through my airsoft shop. PM me what you need.

A couple of things... First look at the date code on the tank. The tanks are only good for 5 years (or 3 years on some tanks) They can be re hydroed but that adds about $50 to the cost (you normally have to ship them in and pay UPS in both directions)

Also, tanks with built in regs come in 2 outputs. Most are around 700 psi, but there are also a lot built for "low pressure" guns that are around 300psi.

I wish we still had our paintball business. I could have fixed you up with 45, 68, or 80s plus dive tanks and fixtures to refill from a dive tank. We used to buy up a lot of the out of date tanks, then when we had a load send a bunch in for Hydro. While they were out we would rebuild all the regs so that customers could choose the size they wanted and the reg they wanted and we would put them together for them. We always filled with N2 instead of compressed air- but we had a very expensive "booster" to pump the N2 up to 3000 or 4500 psi depending on the tank.

I had some parts left over from my old shop, then I eBay'd a couple of other parts.
I wouldn't bother with the HP, carbon tanks if smaller size is wanted. The CO2 bottles give plenty of shifts and can be placed in small spots.

This is my setup, 'cept I'm not going to use the 9oz bottle, I'm going with a 4oz. It will all fit nicely in the space freed up by the "Vanity Battery" as people put it.

"Vanity battery," I wonder where that came-from?:biglaugh:

KJ, not having any experience w/nitrous oxide, and being too-lazy to google it, :confused2: what kind of duty cycle for what size tank do you expect to get? I do understand this setup is for your air shifter.

I am ashamed to admit I recently passed on purchasing a vanity battery for my KZ440 Sport as it would have cost more than I paid for the not-running bike! The Pb/acid traditional Yuasa battery I did buy has been on charge all night after buying it yesterday, so I think it should be ready for a full duty cycle. I think I'll wire-in a trickle charger from Harbor Freight, or maybe just get one of those Battery Tender polarized ring-terminal cables you attach to the battery & hook to the Battery Tender.

I think the scenes in the Mad Max movies where the nitrous oxide was enabled/used made a lot of people want to try it out.

You guys are too spendy for me... LOL I just bought my Pingle kit from Sean and mounted the bottle horizontally on the shaft side of the swingarm, bought a $15 12v air compressor at wallyworld and did it that way... Also getting to what FireMedic was saying I installed a cigarette lighter plug on the bottom of the passenger seat and wired it direct then bought a male plug and installed that onto my trickle charger but if I need to charge my phone I can do that too... I can add pics if anyone wants

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The battery will be, courtesy of the Bikesponsors.com people. I'll put the order in next month or so. The draw on it from a nitrous system is minimal, you won't notice it. It's not like the race cars, snowmobiles, and drag bikes that don't have charging systems. I've never had to put a charger on a bike with a charging system between rounds. If your constantly running an on-board compressor to refill your air tank, that might change the equation. I can't tell you on that one, I don't nor have ever used one. So hopefully someone will pop in with the answer to that one. unk:

As for the Air shifter, You'll see between 90-100 shifts per 4 oz, CO2 tank and around 180-200ish with a 9oz tank. I don't have much in the air system at all. The expansion chamber gives the system it's air.
There is a chance of pumping liquid CO2 through the system, messing up the shifts. This helps eliminate that issue. The small regulator works nice to take down the 700+psi to a manageable 125
You can also carry a smaller CO2 bottle to fill the shifter from. A 20oz CO2 bottle to siphon from will net you between 420-490 shifts. I don't know to many people who have made close to 100 passes in a weekend.

The nitrous, With a 20oz tank, your going to burn through about 65% of the tank on a 60hp shot, with a 40 shot your looking at about 2 passes. If you put a regulator on the bottle, it's possible to squeak out a third pass. It all depends on how much you have in the bottle to start with. I've seen people put an extra 5-10 oz or so, in a regulated bottle. It's nothing I would do, last thing you want is to pop the pressure disk. At the track or for a dash for cash, I wouldn't risk it. Just bring a couple of bottles and a mother bottle to refill from and You'll be good to go. This is where the turbo argument "You have to carry all those bottles" is always made. I don't think I've ever had to bring more than 4 bottles including the mother bottle with me, so IMO the need to carry a couple 4 or 5 bottles with you really isn't that big of deal. They don't take up that much room in the trailer or the truck. When I ran the XS at the track I used a 10lb mother bottle and 2-2.5 lb bottles and that system was a dual stage setup, the key was to always have a bottle full.


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KJ, thank-you.

The shop I hang-out at, a lot of the guys run n.o.s. but for me I think I will go slower w/fewer things to care-for.

Perfectly said KJ, I have an onboard compressor and no extra battery but I did the crimp fix and ran a 10 gauge wire right from the regulator to the + side of the battery and another ground with cleaned connection from the regulator ground to the - side if the battery. I also have a HID headlight and I have a NOS motorcycle fogger kit with a purge that I added as well as a bottle heater. I put my activation button as my starter button on a DPDT switch so that when you flip it the fuel pump starts moving fuel and arms the system and then the starter button is the "go" button provided your at WOT because I wired in a microswitch to my throttle linkage too. In order to make all this work I bypassed where the headlight runs through the starter button and put it on a small toggle so my headlight wouldn't go out while I was spraying, this is also the way I get away with the bottle heater because I just shut off the headlight while in the staging lanes with the bike running to maintain power and if I need to sit back in the pits with it on I just either use my trickle charger or run jumper cables to my truck but I've never had to do that because I've never had any charging issues. I also have an onboard compressor and it'll fill the tank from empty to 125psi in under 30 seconds and if your just topping off from 100psi after a pass then it only has to run about 5 seconds or so and it doesn't even dim the headlight.. In my opinion if your charging system is up to snuff then you'll have no issues whatsoever with the nitrous and air shifter, just remember if you run a bottle heater (if it gets cold you'll need one) make sure to put in a toggle for your headlight because the heater is what really puts the strain on the electrical system but if you can kill the headlight you can maintain adequate power. Everything KJ said about spare bottles is spot on and I do the exact same thing

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If you go to CO2, try to mount the bottle VERTICAL. A CO2 bottle on its side will push liquid CO2 into you set up. A 16oz or 20oz tank can have an anti syphon tube put in it. I used to do about 100 a month. I always used the Smart Parts on/off valve and 1/4" copper tubing. Of course if you are using an anti syphon tube, it has to be set for the way you have it mounted. An anti syphon tube mounted wrong becomes a syphon tube. If you make a set up with an expansion chamber, the expansion chamber should be between the tank and the reg, You want to keep liquid out of the reg The problem you have when liquid past the reg is that the liquid will over pressure and you will have anywhere form 800-1200 psi!. I always used plastic line from the reg to the shifter. If you get liquid and it over pressurizes, the plastic line wil blow protecting your system. just FYI is you use a 12 oz or small tank, they do not have to be re hydroed. only tanks like the 16 and 20 need to be rehydroed every 5 years Brass Eagle used to make a 4oz tank that was perfect because it was small (little bigger then most regs) and you could have several so you just screwed in a fresh tank for elimitations.

Your best choice if using CO2 is to mount what ever size tank you use vertically or leaned forward about 30*

Aluminum tank: Test every 5 years, unlimited life.
Check for "3AL " stamped in top curved part of tank, If you have 3AL stamped around the crown.

Steel tanks: Test every 3 years, 24 year life.
Check the top part of the bottles for "3HT" stamped into the crown. If a magnet sticks to the tank, and it has "3HT" stamped in the crown, it is a "Steel 3HT" bottle.

Fiber wrapped high pressure air (3k, 4.5k psi): Test every 3 or 5 years, 15 year life
Check your "E" number test date (look on the lable for a "E-XXXX").


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Thanks for all the good info. I am probably gonna put the bottle in my tail section or if I decide to just use a 4 ounce bottle it will probably fit into my battery box. Hopefully I can work on it ome tomorrow but I have some other work going on to so I might not be able to.