Garretts random winter questions

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gamorg02

gamorg02

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So I'm on the last stretch of my winter maintenance and had a few thoughts/questions.

1. I have my exhaust off and a spare oil pan gasket, I think I wanna make sure the o-ring is in place. Any tips for this job? I was gonna give the oil a few hours to drain (can't run the bike), take off the pan, inspect o ring, then asuming all is good, get one of those soft drill attachments to clean old gasket and then fit the new one. Do I need to put any other sealant on the gasket to hold it and such?

2. Anyone think ill have to retune the carbs slightly since I found 9/16 valves .001-.0015 too tight?

3. The damn timing plug strippd out on me, are there any allen head swaps for these?
 
#1 should scrape off pretty easily. Just use a gasket scrapper and mind the metal. No need for sealant. Just put it on the pan and then put in place, torquing the bolts per recommended procedure. I installed the COO popper stopper with 150 miles on mine.

#2 can't see why you should. The idle may need adjusted.

#3 No idea... That's a Sean question.

Chris
 
1. I'm not positive when the piping was updated but I think your 03 should already have it. I have done this O-Ring Procedure on my 94 and my 89. The 94 had the O-Ring popped with no visible damage to the engine. I replaced the O-Ring with the Kawasaki Part and used the COO Button. The 89 still had the O-Ring captive, to my surprise. I replaced it with the Kawi O-Ring ( Not absolutely necessary, since the O-Ring was in place) but didn't bother with the COO Button. I really feel the piping had been upgraded by the PO. The pan gasket is pretty easy. My 89 did not even have the guide pins. I did use RTV Sealant, Black on the pan side of both but that was my choice. I'm hoping that if it ever comes apart again the gasket will come off with the pan. I used a razor blade scraper and a 1/4" flat blade for an Exacto to get the old gaskets off. I did a fair write up while doing the 89. If it will be of any help to you, it's here: Post # 10 on the thread of this link. http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=15009

2. I wouldn't think you'd need to adjust the carbs. If anything, Idle, as mentioned

3. Somebody on this planet is sure to have exactly what your looking for...

Best Wishes for you on this job. It can be scary the first time but work through it slowly, double checking your work.. Make sure everything is tight when you close it up..
 
I've had the pan off a couple times. I had good luck with just the OEM gasket, no sealant, no leaks.

I thought about a roloc or something similar but didn't want to risk any debris making its way into the bottom end.
 
The list that I'm working on for updates and modifications by the factory shows 2003 as the year Yamaha addressed the O-Ring with a fix....So, 95 is not exempt from the problem....
 
I think the oil delivery pipe was changed in '99. At least, according to the fiche. There are 2 different part #'s for the delivery elbows.

'85-'98= 26H-y1319-10-00
'99-'07= 26H-y1319-01-00

You can't order the old P/N anymore, it has been discontinued. Here is a comparison of the two. Newer version on the left.




These pics and more can be found here: http://imageevent.com/wforest/spanishflyermyvmax

Not sure which kawaski ring they have in that photo, or which one I got from Sean Morley, but they do not look alike at all. The one I have is oval shaped.
 
That is not the correct Kawi o-ring. The correct one is used on cylinder head bolts and I can't remember the bike (just have the part number down at the shop).

All years have the potential problem (including ones with the later years too!).

Not sure about the inspection plug. They do suck. It's not a special thread but you'll not find a bolt with that thread made that short. BUT, you can easily cut the bolt off. The problem is groving the bolt head for the o-ring. I would think a copper washer would be a good substitute for that though.

Sean
 
one2dmax said:
That is not the correct Kawi o-ring. The correct one is used on cylinder head bolts and I can't remember the bike (just have the part number down at the shop).

All years have the potential problem (including ones with the later years too!).

Not sure about the inspection plug. They do suck. It's not a special thread but you'll not find a bolt with that thread made that short. BUT, you can easily cut the bolt off. The problem is groving the bolt head for the o-ring. I would think a copper washer would be a good substitute for that though.

Sean
Click to expand...

Sean,

So you've seen the oring pop even with the new yamaha 'fix'? Has one with the kawa oring ever popped?

Do you have a new or used timing plug i could buy? May need to make a small order....
 
I have seen it on a 2005 and a 2006 engine. The 2005 was my own and was taken apart to fix the cracked/busted trans. The 2006 was another members bike on here and his had ring failure. Neither of those two failures was a result of the o-ring in my opinion.

I have only taken apart a couple of engines we have done the Kawi too and both were in place. I would say probably 50-75% of the engines we work on have the o-ring partially popped out. BUT, we also tend to work on the engines that have had a problem of some sort.
 
one2dmax said:
I have seen it on a 2005 and a 2006 engine. The 2005 was my own and was taken apart to fix the cracked/busted trans. The 2006 was another members bike on here and his had ring failure. Neither of those two failures was a result of the o-ring in my opinion.

I have only taken apart a couple of engines we have done the Kawi too and both were in place. I would say probably 50-75% of the engines we work on have the o-ring partially popped out. BUT, we also tend to work on the engines that have had a problem of some sort.
Click to expand...

so if you had my 2003 and dropped the pan, would you leave it be if it was fine, or would do the kawa? or the kawa and the COO stopper or something?
 
I'd pull the clutch cover off as well as the pan and do the HD oiling upgrade lol! I don't know if i'd bother taking the pan off personally. BUT, it's not going to hurt anything to check it out either and add the better o-ring at the same time. You can either use Tom's kit or simply safety wire the tubing in place (loop over the casting notch in the block).

Sean
 
one2dmax said:
I'd pull the clutch cover off as well as the pan and do the HD oiling upgrade lol! I don't know if i'd bother taking the pan off personally. BUT, it's not going to hurt anything to check it out either and add the better o-ring at the same time. You can either use Tom's kit or simply safety wire the tubing in place (loop over the casting notch in the block).

Sean
Click to expand...

i think we've had this discussion before, but why wouldn't you bother?
 
one2dmax said:
Too much work on your back lol. The pan gasket sucks!
Sean
Click to expand...

def not looking forward to it, but its almost a piece of mind thing, if it can catastrophically fail the engine seems silly not to check, but i think last time we chatted you said if when the engine was warm, if i could get the max PSI (58 psi ish on my gauge) at any RPM the oring was probably fine.

the reaosn i'm iffy is that i'm about 10 PSI lower when the engine is hot than i 'should' be.

so i'll start at 0-2 psi at idle then around say 4k rpms i'll be around 28 - 32 PSI.
 
gamorg02 said:
def not looking forward to it, but its almost a piece of mind thing, if it can catastrophically fail the engine seems silly not to check, but i think last time we chatted you said if when the engine was warm, if i could get the max PSI (58 psi ish on my gauge) at any RPM the oring was probably fine.

the reaosn i'm iffy is that i'm about 10 PSI lower when the engine is hot than i 'should' be.

so i'll start at 0-2 psi at idle then around say 4k rpms i'll be around 28 - 32 PSI.
Click to expand...

Cheap insurance and it's not hard!

Of course mine had 150 miles on it when I did it... lol

I did mine when I put my exhaust on since you have to remove the headers anyway. I threw an old comforter down and laid on it, while I removed it all.

Chris
 
Update:

Took of the oil pan and clutch today. O-ring was in place as it should be!:eusa_dance:

I'm thinking of not doing the oiling upgrade, to be honest, as at a certain point i like the 'leave well enough alone' mentality. i'm def going to do the kawi o-ring and new boot on the bottom of the pipe.

The clutch had me stumped until i saw the retaining wire. My plates have a tiny bit of bluing but i think thats normal. i'll take some pics later see what people think on them.

didn't get a chance to clean the oil pan gasket on the engine itself but brought the pan home to clean. found a razor blade and a lot of steady hand/patience the best way to do the clutch gasket cleaning.
 
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