Can stainless steel bolts really demage your aluminium casing??

I was researching about stainless steel bolts and this what I came across :

[FONT=Geneva, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]When stainless steel is fastened ?dry? into aluminium, galvanic corrosion can occur as the result of two different materials at opposite ends of the ?metal nobility? table being interfaced. In practical terms this means that alloy crankcases can oxidise around the fastener area very quickly. Copper based anti seize provides a third metal as the ?sandwich? and as copper is placed in the centre of the ?metal nobility? table it prevents Galvanic corrosion. Ordinary grease or oil will not work as they do not contain the vital element. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES use aluminium grease of any sort including aerosols - it will probably seriously damage the castings[/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=-1].[/SIZE]

LINK TO source

Can any one confirm this?:ummm:

Vitek


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Vitek said:

I was researching about stainless steel bolts and this what I came across :

[FONT=Geneva, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]When stainless steel is fastened ‘dry’ into aluminium, galvanic corrosion can occur as the result of two different materials at opposite ends of the ‘metal nobility’ table being interfaced. In practical terms this means that alloy crankcases can oxidise around the fastener area very quickly. Copper based anti seize provides a third metal as the ‘sandwich’ and as copper is placed in the centre of the ‘metal nobility’ table it prevents Galvanic corrosion. Ordinary grease or oil will not work as they do not contain the vital element. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES use aluminium grease of any sort including aerosols - it will probably seriously damage the castings[/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=-1].[/SIZE]

LINK TO source

Can any one confirm this?:ummm:

Vitek


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I have spoken to two good engineers about this and can confirm it's general accuracy.

Copper based anti-seize (slang name is 'creepy grease') is a copper colour and can be used on engine cases but the preferred application for the copper based product is hot parts like Manifold studs and hot Pipe threads. Electrical connections like battery terminals. Nuts and bolts for hot parts are also best serviced with copper based anti-seize.

Nickel based anti-seize (which is silvery in colour) is best used for Marine equipment, Stainless Steel, Metal Alloys and nuts and bolts where extreme heat is not a problem. You would used this on your engine cases and fork assembly but not on an exhaust manifold.

I use both types an my Vmax threads UNLESS the manufacturer recommends a thread locking compound.

Apart from it's anti-seize value the compound nickel and copper 'creepy greases' stop the female threads being chopped out by the harder metals on the male bolts and screws e.g. where a steel thread must fit an alloy case part.

One final point is that you use it sparingly. A little goes a long way.

We use it at work, we call it "Never Seize".

Most car parts stores carry it.

Mac-Daddy-Racing said:

We use it at work, we call it "Never Seize".

Most car parts stores carry it.

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I call it Anti-Seize!

I use the aluminum based stuff... Maybe I should grab some copper stuff huh?:confused2:

Interesting stuff, but I have used stainless for over 5 years and no issues - only use loctite blue ???

Mike

I have a 500 cubic inch Caddy motor in my Malibu and Ive had the exhaust manifolds off several times for head work and just messing with it. Ive used both copper and silver anti-sieze stuff. Given how easy it is for manifold bolts to get welded with rust to the heads, both have worked super for me. By the way, its a '79 malibu and it goes like hell with the 500!

I work as an engineer in the refrigeration industry. We use stainless steel fastners with aluminum sheet metal all the time. The only time we see corrosion between the two is in an acidic environment. Some harsh cleaners will cause the aluminum to corrode quickly. I've seen aluminum plugs we put in stainless steel tubing corrode and expand so much they will split the tubing. I would use never-seize if you're using stainless bolts.

use loc-tite in the white tube or a product called swack work the best.

Vitek said:

I was researching about stainless steel bolts and this what I came across :

[FONT=Geneva, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]When stainless steel is fastened ‘dry’ into aluminium, galvanic corrosion can occur as the result of two different materials at opposite ends of the ‘metal nobility’ table being interfaced. In practical terms this means that alloy crankcases can oxidise around the fastener area very quickly. Copper based anti seize provides a third metal as the ‘sandwich’ and as copper is placed in the centre of the ‘metal nobility’ table it prevents Galvanic corrosion. Ordinary grease or oil will not work as they do not contain the vital element. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES use aluminium grease of any sort including aerosols - it will probably seriously damage the castings[/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=-1].[/SIZE]

LINK TO source

Can any one confirm this?:ummm:

Vitek

Click to expand...

I have been working i a metal shop for ninteen years. So naturally I have done a lot of work for friends and friends of friends.
Now sweden has The second most boats per capita in the world. And I would guess that its the same with motorcycles. So I've mede/rapaird a lot of things to motorcycles and boats.
I have NEVER EVER mixed stainless and aluminium when it comes to boats, the saltwater would eat away the aluminium in no time if it has a catode in the form of stainless.
When it comes to bikes that are out in the summer, sunny days and just some sweet water in the form of rain now and then - it doesent really matter.
However if you want a grease to work as a anode I would go for something with zink in it. Zink is used by people with steelboats as sacrifice-anodes.

At work we use a copper based anti seize for multiple applications. Most of our hardware is stainless and we connect to plain steel, galvanized steel, aluminum, tinned copper, plain copper, zinc coated steel, etc. The product we use is called KOPR-SHIELD. It is manufactured by Thomas&Betts. Their catalog #CP16 (one LB tub). We have never come across any corrosion issues when this product is used during assembly. It is also excellent to use on electrical connections. We use it on all of our terminations. We buy it through our industry specific suppliers but it can also be purchased through electrical supply houses, and if you are familiar with auto restoration you may have heard of the Eastwood company. They sell small bottles with a built in brush that would be more cost efficient for the home user.

FWIW
I've noticed that since I started using the Cu based anti-seize that I use a lot less heli-coils. :biglaugh: