I agree w/''93Max,' the reverse-bleed is very useful in removing all air that may be trapped in the lines, whether for front or rear brake, or the clutch hydraulic system.
I have a brand-new Mityvac I haven't even bothered to use, I just reverse-bleed, and it's as-good as it's going to get.
Many members like the
overnight tie-back of the lever approach, but if you do a good job of the reverse-bleed, it's not necessary.
During a proper reverse-bleed, you will see much bubbling coming from the very small hole of the master cyl floor, the one closest to the banjo bolt, as you purge the fluid/air from the line. As you continue to force fluid upwards, the bubbling volume decreases from many big bubbles, to small, 'fizzy' bubbles. As the fluid moving-upwards from your syringe expels all the air, the fizzy bubbles will be replaced by a solid column of the fluid emerging in a little 'geyser' from the small front master cyl hole. Should you close the bleeder valve and squeeze the brake lever, that's also what you get. At this point, I usually find that after I rapidly 'fan' the lever a few times, it quickly develops resistance , and you're done.
As others have said, with the wheel off the ground, the disengagement of the clutch will still allow the viscous oil around the clutch to spin the wheel through the drivetrain. Sean's pic of the slotted friction disc clutch basket wear pattern is seen on high-mileage, or thoroughly-used bikes. A bucks-down rider could sand down those bumps to get a little more use out of the basket. As you would expect, the clutch wouldn't allow a full release of the friction discs, if the discs are hung-up in the clutch basket wear pattern.
One other thing to try might be to "back" bleed from the slave UP to the master.
I have to do this from time to time on my 02 EXC 400 for the front brake when it sits for a long time.
I use a syringe/hose over the bleeder at the slave.
Can get messy so have some help IF you try it.