COPs

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Shredder

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Can someone explain to me the benefit of the cops mod. And how it actually works?
 
Ok, well the "old fashioned" way of getting a spark, was having a coil (to generate the spark) hooked to a spark plug wire, which then fed the spark to the the spark plug for combustion. Kinda like an old 1969 Dodge charger. Any one of those points was subject to failure due to age, corrosion, etc....and if any of those things happened, you cannot carry the spark anymore to the cylinder.

So, about the late 90's (I think) automobile manufacturers thought about bypassing that system, and putting the coil directly on the spark plug itself.....that way you have less things to go wrong, and to "scatter" the spark energy.

So, now with COPS (Coil On PlugS), the ECU will tell the COP when to fire, and that energy is directly on the spark plug itself.

I have COPS myself, and ran them on the dyno......there is no extra HP from running them, and you still have to run the same plug gap.....or less...BUT.....the benefit is in using up to date technology. If your on the road, and a COP goes bad, you can go to your local OReillys....etc....and order the same one as off the donor bike. You cant do that with the stock Yamaha coils.

Make sense?
 
Yes makes since. Just wanted to make sure i was understanding it correctly. Is there a certain cop you have to use that will work for the bike?
 
I bought a set from a Suzuki GSXR.. Got a harness from a Honda. Cut the power connectors from my coils, and spent an hour soldering things up. They plugged right in and worked perfectly. Total cost was about $25.00..
 
Just need to check whether you need resistors. If you have original cdi or dynatek 3000, i believe u need em. The newer igbitech, no
 
Get with blackmax here on the forum, I picked up a set from from him.

In my case:
1. The bike now starts quicker.
2. The 'Max used to want to die at idle when it got hot, so I had to bump the idle to 1250-1300 RPM to keep it running at stoplights. (I assumed it was carb related) With COPs, I'm back to a smooth 1000 RPM at idle. (even with my California model which is supposed to be set to 1100 +-50)
3. I had a hesitation just after Vboost around 7K before COPs. That is now gone.
4. Even though I left my stock coils in place, you could remove them to lose a few pounds.
5. It is easier to route the COPs wiring, since it replaces the thicker spark plug wires.
6. By retaining the old coils and plug wires, you can switch between the two systems if one is giving you trouble. Don't think I will go back though...

You will not gain any horsepower from doing this mod. The bike will run exactly as it did with new factory coils. The mod eliminates the plug wires and there was a chance one of the factory coils was failing on my bike. This mod will also remove a potential point of failure for the system - the high voltage wire from the ignition coil to the plug.

blackmax builds the kits with the shorter COPs that makes it easier to fit the coil on plug into the tight space above the front spark plugs.

Hint: You need to remove the spark plug aluminum threaded tips to use the COPs.
Hint #2: The front left stock coil feeds the front right cylinder. The front right stock coil feeds the front left cylinder. This will remain the same using the COPs conversion.
 
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For me it was a preventative measure as I tend to end up in BFE when I tour. They were easy to install and I noticed slightly better idle, throttle response and the fine tuning of the carbs was easier and faster (they were off to). One breakdown of the OEM coils on the road would exceed the cost of the COPs. I would NOT want to have to mess with these OEM coils on the road, especially the fronts.

A word about removal of the front coils, I was able to get them out by loosening the brain rack and tilting it, it was tight but I was able to break the inner screws loose with a small vice grip, barely. I then used a Phillips bit and 1/4" combo wrench to inch them out. This probably makes no sense but once your in there it should. You can just leave them in place to but I cant justify leaving all that weight onboard. Its enough of a pig without that haha.

Although it was running fine before, I noted all four coils were split open along the bottoms, right where it could not be seen with them in place. Im glad I took care of this before it stranded me. Thanks to Blaxmax for the fast shipping and great price on a well crafted plug-n-play upgrade. This is the first mod my next v4 will get.
 
For me it was a preventative measure as I tend to end up in BFE when I tour. They were easy to install and I noticed slightly better idle, throttle response and the fine tuning of the carbs was easier and faster (they were off to). One breakdown of the OEM coils on the road would exceed the cost of the COPs. I would NOT want to have to mess with these OEM coils on the road, especially the fronts.

A word about removal of the front coils, I was able to get them out by loosening the brain rack and tilting it, it was tight but I was able to break the inner screws loose with a small vice grip, barely. I then used a Phillips bit and 1/4" combo wrench to inch them out. This probably makes no sense but once your in there it should. You can just leave them in place to but I cant justify leaving all that weight onboard. Its enough of a pig without that haha.

Although it was running fine before, I noted all four coils were split open along the bottoms, right where it could not be seen with them in place. Im glad I took care of this before it stranded me. Thanks to Blaxmax for the fast shipping and great price on a well crafted plug-n-play upgrade. This is the first mod my next v4 will get.
Thanks Casey, hollar when ready.
 
I wouldn't mind trading my resistor harnessfor a set without them. Or selling them outright. I'm not looking to make anything off of the deal, just end up with another harness. PM me if you are interested,timscues.Or anyone else.
Steve
 
I'm running a 92 with the newer dyna 3000 and a 1500tm, do I need the resistors or not?? looking at finally upgrading

Is it the dyna 3000 with the adjustable timing curve? If not (its an older one) and definitely yes, if it is a new one, I dont know. I would follow up with dyna and get their recommendations.

So, stock ignition, no resistors needed, Ignitech, no resistors needed, "old" dyna 3000, YES resistors needed. "New adjustable" unknown. I only know of 1 other person with the new one, and I believe that is Thor from France.
 
Thanks Traumahawk, I too was in question about resistors/cops with the Ignitech. I was still having a miss or sometimes lumpy #3 leading me back to wanting cops again, on my way to justify the buy I took apart the boot on #3, the spring, disc and resistor all had oxidization as bad as a battery post gets!
I cleaned up everything and put that boot back on and the bike sounded much better, I checked 1,2,4 and only 2 was as bad, now my machine starts, sounds,runs and smells(exhaust) so much better, now when I snap the throttle it responds really crisp.
I have recently gone to 147.5 mains, now with all four firing 100%,the new mains, my mileage was way up judging from passed day long cruises, tomorrow were going do actual full tank/miles calculations. I have good coils, no cracks at all, I just may have saved the cops money cleaning up those boots.
 

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My thinking on the COPS, with all the positive effects of utilizing this setup, at least you'll clean up the rats nest of wires, bulky coils.
 

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