Another problem is that if the clutch only wants to disengage very close to the handlebar you may have a worn master cyl, a worn slave cyl, or air in the lines. Air in the lines could be due to worn hydraulic cylinders as-above.
What color is your brake fluid in the reservoir? If you cannot see the bottom of the reservoir because the brake fluid is opaque, it's been 'way-too-long since it was changed. Drain the master cylinder, and reverse bleed the clutch at the left engine cover slave cylinder bleeder nipple. Search on here for the process, it doesn't take much in equipment you don't already have, and it's the quickest, fastest way to remove air in your lines, and to purge the system of contaminated brake fluid.
You are using a large capacity syringe fastened to the slave cyl bleeder nipple opened, to push fresh brake fluid into the brake syatem and into the handlebar master cyl. You keep pushing syringes-full into the lower bleeder nipple until the handlebar clutch master cyl is full of fresh brake fluid, clear. You may have to remove the fluid from the emptied handlebar master cyl, as you push the fresh fluid to displace the old fluid, upwards and into the handlebar master cyl. Remove the contaminated dirty fluid as necessary to allow the system to be completely purged of it.
Replace the master cyl reservoir cap, with the reservoir about 2/3 to 3/4 filled, past the 1/2-way point on your window for fluid level on the front side of the master cyl. Rapidly fan the clutch lever repeatedly, and you should feel the resistance move the 'friction-point' of the lever disengagement from that prior 'close to the handlebar' point, to beginning when you are about 1" from the handlebar on your initial lever pull, and pretty much disengaged as you move past 1/2-way lever travel.
