heres the steel plates. i think most are ok except the two. one is 1/2 blue the other is maybe a third. is that still well within spec?
Garretts random winter questions
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maxcruiser
Well-Known Member
Check to see if they are warped against factory specs, if not, bead blast and reinstall.
Mike
Mike
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
The clutch plates don't look too bad. Mine were very similar when I took them out. I didn't bother taking them to get blasted but I did clean the blue off of them with some scotchbrite and simple green. Then I rinsed them off and coated them lightly with oil.
Not sure if you're doing the DD mod or not but if you want some more clutch power without increasing lever effort you can just buy a new friction disc for about $10 and throw away the retaining wire, the half sized friction, the clutch boss spring and spring seat.
Not sure if you're doing the DD mod or not but if you want some more clutch power without increasing lever effort you can just buy a new friction disc for about $10 and throw away the retaining wire, the half sized friction, the clutch boss spring and spring seat.
thanks i'll just clean them up then.
and yes I"m doing the DD!
EDIT: it seems i have to be very careful installing the retaining clip bolts with the two springs under it. any hints on this? is it just some blue loctite and until their snug? I mean the 8Nm the book recommends is basically snug as it is!
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
No real trick to installing two springs. Just match up the profiles on both of them and bolt the retaining ring on. I used loctite and set them at 7Nm if I remember correctly.
I would consider bead blasting them. When they get hot like that (obvious sign of slipping) then they can glaze over which makes it harder for the new plates to do their job.
Sean
Sean
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
Sean, you don't think manual cleaning can break the glaze?
yes it can. scotch pads would work.
so i was talking to the coater and he said he's never done clutch plates but would do it for me if i felt comfortable. He thought clutch plates should be smooth, which i think is true, but not glazed correct?
It looks like from what i read online he wants to use low pressure (no more than 50 psi) and some type of sand-esque material.
if its something thats easily messed up maybe i can just take a scotch brite pad or some sandpaper (500 grit sound about right) or even a brass brush on my dremel?
first tho gotta make sure the blued ones aren't warped.
Garrett, you can always take your paltes off and get them glass beated.
Also, I use the spray-on gasket remover from O'Reilly's. When the bubbling slows down just wipe off.
Mark
yea i was discussing that with sean and mike above..... is the key you want the plates smooth but not galzed?
never heard of it. i'll have to pick some up. i assume autozone would have it?
4gasem
Well-Known Member
I was told that you want to just put tiger stripes on them. Too aggressive and you'll lose all slip. Remember you DO want some slippage...
Here's the stuff. I'm sure other brands work fine too.
http://www.cheapautoparts.com/cheap...ersachem_gasket_remover_9_75_oz_aerosol_41008
http://www.cheapautoparts.com/cheap...ersachem_gasket_remover_9_75_oz_aerosol_41008
4gasem
Well-Known Member
The name of that product is the sound I make when I clear my throat...
:rofl_200::rofl_200:
Mine is "ack-cough-cough-ackkkkkkkkkkkkkkk <spit>"
95spfldmax
Well-Known Member
Garrett,
If your going to order a can get one for me and i'll pay for it and split the shipping. Let me know.
We do the bead blasting. I just got a new price on this so it's not as expensive now but your coater should have no problem if he's using the plastic beads to clean the parts up prior to coating.
Sean
Sean
i think i'll probably just swing by autozone, i honestly didn't even know that type of stuff existed.
he says he uses coal sag/'fine black beauty'
When you do it, do you do stripes or the full plate? if you do stripes do you remove the glaze on the whole plate?
