Clutch issues

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Hey all trying to get the max back up and going right after it being stored for some time. My clutch is still slipping after a clutch rebuild.. all plates were replaced. Still slips in the upper gears so I redid the master cylinder and slave cylinder and it's better but not like my other maxes I have owned. I remember reading about the dd mod or do I want to go another route? I have read posts and just not sure
I don't know or I wouldn't be asking. Just frustrated because I know this max is jetted with a marks exhaust and the Morley air box conversion. Sure sounds mean but doesn't have the bite. Thanks again for any help. Tim
 
Did you scuff the steelies before reassembly? And did you replace the inner half-width friction disc w/a full-width one, and eliminate the spring steel spring in there? If your clutch was within-spec for the thickness of the steelies, and you scuffed them, and didn't leave anything out, your clutch should work fine. I've never heard of anyone wearing-out the stock diaphragm spring. PCW sells a stiffer one, which I think is better than doing the double-disc spring mod. I see you said you replaced the plates, was that friction discs and the steelies? Unless they are worn beyond minimum thickness or blued from overheating, and/or warped, the steelies can be re-used after a scuffing.
 
As Mt Fire-medic suggests replacing the half plate with a full one will help.
You will notice more of a clonk as you select first and a light clutch rattle at idle but apart from that...

Also measure the diaphragm spring height which should be greater than 6.5 mm.

I trust you haven't used an engine oil intended for cars that has friction modifiers added?
 
Thanks! All new plates and using motorcycle oil. Did not replace the half plate and not sure which one that is. I get on once in a while and do not get much time to research threads. Sorry just my life. I appreciate the help and if someone can direct me in the direction of the half to full plate I will swap please do and thank you!
 
The innermost friction disc is a half-width friction surface, there's a spring steel band that fits inside of the half-width friction disc, and the ends as I recall fit into holes of the inner splined clutch hub. That's the piece the steelies teeth insert-into. The purpose of the half-disc is to act as a clutch chatter reducer, typically on downshifts.

The half friction disc is just replaced with a stock Yamaha OEM friction disc, full-width as the other friction discs, the spring steel band is removed and not replaced.

Your diaphragm spring could be weak but I have never seen one go bad, though I am not a professional motorcycle mechanic.
 
How much slip are you noticing?

I think you'd have a hard time feeling much slip with a properly assembled, factory setup with all new plates, a rebuilt master, and rebuilt slave.

It is possible, but unlikely.

I'd be double checking my work to see that everything was properly assembled and that the slave and master are working as intended.

Here is a link to the DD mod. It covers clutch assembly so you can double check yourself. It also covers replacement of the "half disk" as mentioned above. You can follow through and do everything minus stacking the clutch springs.

http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/clutch.htm
 
I have an 02 with 36K. Getting a growling noise when in neutral and the clutch is released. Is this normal and how loud should it be? Mine sounds like a diesel engine .
 
I recently had one that was far louder then I normally hear. Ended up swapping out the bearing in the pressure plate which made a huge difference. Easy to replace and not a terribly expensive part. I usually keep a few of these on hand now!
 
Something I have noticed also, I bought some aftermarket levers... Worked great for the front brake, but made the clutch slip....even with the DD...

This may be the key to your problem. Make sure that aftermarket lever has no pressure on the master cylinder on the handle bar UNTIL you apply hand pressure. I read somewhere on this board that someone else had the same issue. There was not enough clearance between the aftermarket lever boss and the master cylinder, so the clutch was partially disengaged.
 
This may be the key to your problem. Make sure that aftermarket lever has no pressure on the master cylinder on the handle bar UNTIL you apply hand pressure. I read somewhere on this board that someone else had the same issue. There was not enough clearance between the aftermarket lever boss and the master cylinder, so the clutch was partially disengaged.

+1, I've taken a little off the rod to correct that on a bike I'm working on. When you put the lever on and look down the bolt hole, it should not have any interference. The bolt should slide in without moving the lever. Or, as stated you won't get full engagement and get slippage.
 
Yep, that's the key. I had the same problem. I would up slightly filing down the clutch master actuator rod so that no more pushing of the rod when the clutch lever is just sitting there not being pulled in.

I did notice that the problem will happen more when all it heated up. I think the slight expansion of everything, and the fluid too, will make the problem worse. That's why it was a bit hard to troubleshoot. All seemed good when I first would take the bike out, but then during the ride the clutch would slip. Then I noticed the clutch handle would be a bit stiffer right off the bat when I pulled it in when warm. In other words, absolutely no slack at all. That's what was causing the clutch slip.
It was as if I was slightly pulling on the clutch lever all the time when the bike was warm.



Vinnie
 

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