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This is the stuff I use. Just have to make sure to install the double sping mod because it's a wet clutch. If you are not planning on riding hard, I'd stick with yamalube recommend non synthetic oil. You don't want synthetic oil on a wet clutch without the clutch mod. It really depends on your riding style and how much you ride (oil cost). Be warned the double clutch mod is a little harder pull on the clutch.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004U8JH84/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_glt_fabc_67MGWNKAYA46W6HQS696
 
This is the stuff I use. Just have to make sure to install the double sping mod because it's a wet clutch. If you are not planning on riding hard, I'd stick with yamalube recommend non synthetic oil. You don't want synthetic oil on a wet clutch without the clutch mod. It really depends on your riding style and how much you ride (oil cost). Be warned the double clutch mod is a little harder pull on the clutch.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004U8JH84/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_glt_fabc_67MGWNKAYA46W6HQS696
I wondered how synthetic oil would effect the clutch hook up, even with the DD mod. After a bad experience with the stock clutch using synthetic, I never deviated from 15-40 Rotella again. IMO the synthetic is better lubrication though. I change it often enough where it looks clean in the window. When it gets harder to find neutral, I change the oil.
 
15-40 T-6 here, and it's of course a full synthetic. That said it's still a group III, but as has been said (I assume), we can't have too much slip.

I do wish there was an easy access cheap-to-change 50 weight, but for now "change it often" is a pretty good idea.
 
24 pages about oil...I'm guessing any decent oil, whether it's conventional, semi-synthetic, full synthetic using Group III, IV, V or XXXIILLM, changed at regular intervals is going to be just fine provided it's rated for wet clutches.

I'm pretty OCD about oil in my vehicles and I send EVERY oil change out for analysis at Blackstone Labs. I can tell you that Mobil 1 Full Synthetic (changed every 5,000 miles), Mobil 1 4T (changed at 1,000 miles), Valvoline VR1 Conventional (changed every 3,000 miles), Motul 300V Full-Synthetic with an Ester base (changed every 1,000 miles) have all tested just fine and even Ducati, Kawasaki and Suzuki factory fills have come back with acceptable results and those were measured after a several hundred mile break-in cycle.

Every vehicle enthusiast forum has any number of oil threads and everyone has their favorite and they always know the right oil change practice, etc. Net-net...use a reputable oil of your choice and change it regularly. With proper maintenance and oil changes I'd bet no oil is going to result in markedly different results or appreciable wear in the first 100,000+ miles, especially on modern engines.
 
I was told by someone who works on early bikes that modern synthetic oils are too thin for the tolerances on older engines, older engines were made with larger oil molecules for lubrication, so modern oils with smaller molecules allow more 'float' movement of parts which would be taken up with old style oil, modern engines have tighter tolerances for modern oils........or something 🤔
 
I changed the oil on my 2002 when I first got it. Thought I got every drop i could out of it, but when I put new oil in, it looked dark and used. I am wondering if there are any "tricks" to getting ALL of it out??????
 
I'm using the Castrol Actevio part synthetic, I used Yamalube the 1st time which is I can't remember manufacturer (so so).
I changed the oil on my 2002 when I first got it. Thought I got every drop i could out of it, but when I put new oil in, it looked dark and used. I am wondering if there are any "tricks" to getting ALL of it out??????
 
I changed the oil on my 2002 when I first got it. Thought I got every drop i could out of it, but when I put new oil in, it looked dark and used. I am wondering if there are any "tricks" to getting ALL of it out??????
Complete engine disassembly!
You can remove the secondary drain which is seen on the left rear near where the shift shaft exits the case. This will let you get a little more out.
 
I changed the oil on my 2002 when I first got it. Thought I got every drop i could out of it, but when I put new oil in, it looked dark and used. I am wondering if there are any "tricks" to getting ALL of it out??????
stupid question but did you change the oil filter too?
 
I'll give it a try when the next oil change is due. It's sold under another name here in Europe.

Took a picture of it.



mSVUmZd.jpg
How did it go with the oil? Here in Latin America I can't get the rotella either.
 
Dave laf I had the same problem with the '07 I had. There is another drain plug, it's not mentioned in the service section of the manual. It is located paralel to the shift shaft and takes a 17mm . torque is 27 ft.lbs. with a new copper washer.
I don't think you need to bother with that one. That cavity drains back into the main sump area so waste of time IMO. Better to get the lower middle gear cover bolt with the copper crush washer. When I removed my engine got some out of there and none out of the bigger bolt near the shifter shaft.
 
I changed the oil on my 2002 when I first got it. Thought I got every drop i could out of it, but when I put new oil in, it looked dark and used. I am wondering if there are any "tricks" to getting ALL of it out??????
Engine will have dirt if you don't flush it. I had Jeep with about 200k miles. When I removed valve cover, rocker arms were clean, slightly yellow(not black, not brown). It means piston rings were clean.
 

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