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dannymax

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I have a '99 stock engine, 12000 mi., Marving slip-ons, a/f screws turned out 2 3/4 turns. I keep the carbs sync'd with a carbtune.

Bike has been running very well with very occasional popping back thru carbs on right side on hot days during take off.

After sitting for 1 or 2 days, I started it and it wouldn't idle with choke set at it's usual warm up position. After warming it up with the throttle the idle was down to about 600 instead of it's usual 1000.

I put in 8 oz. of seafoam and dialed up the idle to 1200 or so. It went ok for 50 or 60 miles then began running on 3 cylinders, would clear up then 3 cyl again. Went about 15 miles today, it would load up, clear up, load up.......over and over.

Put new plugs in, gapped @ .033", the old plugs looked ok, medium tan but # 2 was wet and gassy smelling. It fired right up with new plugs and had a nice loping idle. Went for a ride and it was very crisp, pipes sounded great, strong accel. to7500 or so but after 6 or 8 miles it started loading back up and had that dead sound of running on less than 4 cyl.

It seems to respond well to WOT, but with no load on the engine it goes back to loading up again.

I think this is a carb issue but don't know where to begin. This happened overnight, one day it ran good, a day or two later it ran like crap.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

dan :bang head:
 
Hey Dan.

When was the last time you changed your fuel filter on your 10 yr old bike?

Sounds to me you may need to do the famous "Peashooter" on your max.
There are better carb troubleshooters here though that will head you to the problem.
 
Hey Dan.

When was the last time you changed your fuel filter on your 10 yr old bike?

Sounds to me you may need to do the famous "Peashooter" on your max.
There are better carb troubleshooters here though that will head you to the problem.

Lankee,

Shit balls, forgot all about the fuel filter. :bang head: Far as I know it has never been changed, but will be 1st thing tomorrow. :eusa_dance:

Thanx for the reminder.

I will also find the "Peashooter" link and study that.

dan
 
I have a '99 stock engine, 12000 mi., Marving slip-ons, a/f screws turned out 2 3/4 turns. I keep the carbs sync'd with a carbtune.

Bike has been running very well with very occasional popping back thru carbs on right side on hot days during take off.

After sitting for 1 or 2 days, I started it and it wouldn't idle with choke set at it's usual warm up position. After warming it up with the throttle the idle was down to about 600 instead of it's usual 1000.

I put in 8 oz. of seafoam and dialed up the idle to 1200 or so. It went ok for 50 or 60 miles then began running on 3 cylinders, would clear up then 3 cyl again. Went about 15 miles today, it would load up, clear up, load up.......over and over.

Put new plugs in, gapped @ .033", the old plugs looked ok, medium tan but # 2 was wet and gassy smelling. It fired right up with new plugs and had a nice loping idle. Went for a ride and it was very crisp, pipes sounded great, strong accel. to7500 or so but after 6 or 8 miles it started loading back up and had that dead sound of running on less than 4 cyl.

It seems to respond well to WOT, but with no load on the engine it goes back to loading up again.

I think this is a carb issue but don't know where to begin. This happened overnight, one day it ran good, a day or two later it ran like crap.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

dan :bang head:

Check the spark plug lead on NO.2.

I'll bet a lot of people rip into the carbs before they check this.

Check the resistance value of the lead when connected to the coil.

The spark plug lead must be firmly seated in the spark plug boot and it must make a good contact with the connecting pin in the coil.

You have given No.2 new plugs and it ran ok for a while then fouled up wet with fuel. i.e. same symptom.

If the connections have an air gap (or corrosion) between the coil pin and the lead core you will have a spark jumping the gap and this will eventually lead to weak spark, corrosion and misfire which will show up at low RPM.

The plug lead is a press fit onto the coil pin but it is easy to pull the lead back off the pin when tightening the lead screw cap to the coil. Press the lead into the pin while tightening to avoid this.
 
Check the spark plug lead on NO.2.

I'll bet a lot of people rip into the carbs before they check this.

Check the resistance value of the lead when connected to the coil.

The spark plug lead must be firmly seated in the spark plug boot and it must make a good contact with the connecting pin in the coil.

You have given No.2 new plugs and it ran ok for a while then fouled up wet with fuel. i.e. same symptom.

If the connections have an air gap (or corrosion) between the coil pin and the lead core you will have a spark jumping the gap and this will eventually lead to weak spark, corrosion and misfire which will show up at low RPM.

The plug lead is a press fit onto the coil pin but it is easy to pull the lead back off the pin when tightening the lead screw cap to the coil. Press the lead into the pin while tightening to avoid this.

Gleno,

Thanks for the tip, it certainly makes sense that this is a possibility, and easy to check out.

I will take a look at the plug lead/coil pin connection on all four coils before diving under the air box.

Thanks again,

dan
 
Gleno,

Thanks for the tip, it certainly makes sense that this is a possibility, and easy to check out.

I will take a look at the plug lead/coil pin connection on all four coils before diving under the air box.

Thanks again,

dan

You will find it easier to get to the front coils with the air box out. :thumbs up:
 
Just my .02 's here but you could also have a float valve in the carb. of that same cylinder with the plug problem. Carefully "rap" the bowl( or a close as you can get to it )with plastic end of a screwdriver. Never use the other end as the results will be a disaster as someone on this forum unfortunatly knows.
But if some smutz is holding the needle and seat valve open( a distinct possibility) a trip into the carbs maybe necessay.
Hope its a sparkpulg wire problem----simple fix.
Good luck,
Lew
 
Just my .02 's here but you could also have a float valve in the carb. of that same cylinder with the plug problem. Carefully "rap" the bowl( or a close as you can get to it )with plastic end of a screwdriver. Never use the other end as the results will be a disaster as someone on this forum unfortunatly knows.
But if some smutz is holding the needle and seat valve open( a distinct possibility) a trip into the carbs maybe necessay.
Hope its a sparkpulg wire problem----simple fix.
Good luck,
Lew

Thanks Lew,

That same suggestion was PM'd to me last night.

Looks like it's going to be one of two possibilities........electrical issue or fuel issue. Isn't that just totally amazing.:rofl_200:

Seriously, I'll check the lead wire to coil connections, if that isn't it then it's time for a total carb cleaning. In fact, I'll do that anyway, wanted to wait till winter but.............

10 years old, 12K miles, it's due, and as Lankee pointed out, the fuel filter is long overdue.

Thanks everybody, I appreciate the help. :worthy:

dan
 
This is a great site, and you'll not find another one with better tech support help than this one.

However, in this case, I suspect operator error. :biglaugh:
 
Sounds like it also might be a clog in your idle air circuit, but it is easier to check everything else first. Let us know on your progress and good luck.
 
This is a great site, and you'll not find another one with better tech support help than this one.

However, in this case, I suspect operator error. :biglaugh:

That's for sure, Jayhawk. Got access to the best V Max mechanics in the world, right here on this site, and they're willing to take the time to help us out. I am very thankful for them, I could never figure this stuff out on my own, and you sure can't trust the LBS's to do it right! :bang head:

"Operator Error".............Hmmmm, not that "Eat At Burger King" remark coming 'round nibbling on my ass is it? Hah, I been waitin' :rofl_200::rofl_200:

dan
 
Ladies and Gentlemen, let's have a fine hand for the "Shotgun Method"!

Performed this today on my poorly running max with amazing results. Gone is all the popping, missing and backfires, from both ends, it pulls strong, no hesitation at take off, excellent results.

This is the first time I've ever had the air box off and the whole job only took me about 2 1/2 hours. The next time I do it, doubt it'll take more than an hour.

It's easy and the results are great, this should be done as regular maintenance.

I've still got the fuel filter change to do, had to order it, and sync the carbs. So I might even see further improvement.

One small tip, it's a good idea to stand to the side of the carbs when blowing air in the PAJ's, otherwise you're gonna get carb cleaner, gas and whatever other crap is in there, right in the....................well you're gonna get it right in the lower part of the body. :bang head:

That may or may not be experience talking. :rofl_200:

Thanks again to everybody who responded.

dan
 
Ladies and Gentlemen, let's have a fine hand for the "Shotgun Method"!

Performed this today on my poorly running max with amazing results. Gone is all the popping, missing and backfires, from both ends, it pulls strong, no hesitation at take off, excellent results.

This is the first time I've ever had the air box off and the whole job only took me about 2 1/2 hours. The next time I do it, doubt it'll take more than an hour.

It's easy and the results are great, this should be done as regular maintenance.

I've still got the fuel filter change to do, had to order it, and sync the carbs. So I might even see further improvement.

One small tip, it's a good idea to stand to the side of the carbs when blowing air in the PAJ's, otherwise you're gonna get carb cleaner, gas and whatever other crap is in there, right in the....................well you're gonna get it right in the lower part of the body. :bang head:

That may or may not be experience talking. :rofl_200:

Thanks again to everybody who responded.

dan

If you run Seafoam through it every other tank you'll have no issues.
 
If you run Seafoam through it every other tank you'll have no issues.

Chris, That's on the schedule M8. What's a good maintenance dose @ every other fill up? Couple oz.?

I stopped at the NAPA store to see if they had BG 44K, the guy said the only thing they have that even comes close to the BG is Seafoam, but that the BG 44K was superior.

Don't know if that's correct or not, maybe somebody else knows??

dan
 
BG is the shit but it's also more expensive and the Seafoam works GREAT!

2-4 ounces per tank!
 

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