Stock signal relay and led indicators

Did you replace the flasher?

firefly said:

Don't use any resistors with the Diodes at the instrument cluster amber light, combine the diodes ends with the silver band together & solder them to the brown wire going to the stock indicator bulb, the green wire to the bulb should be grounded to the frame.

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I just tried wiring it again exactly as it shows in the diagram you provided and it does not work. As soon as I attach the ground wire the instrument cluster light comes on (but dim) and all the directionals dim as well and I still have 4 way flashing.....:bang head: I should note that I am using 3 wire directionals on all four corners (not that this should be causing any problems that I can see)

Frosty72 said:

Did you replace the flasher?

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No, it is an original flasher.

BlaYel said:

I just tried wiring it again exactly as it shows in the diagram you provided and it does not work. As soon as I attach the ground wire the instrument cluster light comes on (but dim) and all the directionals dim as well and I still have 4 way flashing.....:bang head: I should note that I am using 3 wire directionals on all four corners (not that this should be causing any problems that I can see)

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Do you have any resistors at the turn signal bulbs? if so remove them. did you check the connection of the diodes? you ONLY combine the diodes at the silver band end not the other end coming from the harness and make sure they don't touch each other at the harness side.
I am 10000% sure my instructions are correct I just did that mod last week & its working fine. recheck your connections again.

firefly said:

Do you have any resistors at the turn signal bulbs? if so remove them. did you check the connection of the diodes? you ONLY combine the diodes at the silver band end not the other end coming from the harness and make sure they don't touch each other at the harness side.
I am 10000% sure my instructions are correct I just did that mod last week & its working fine. recheck your connections again.

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There are no resistors at the directionals unless there is something built inside of them that I dont know about. I triple checked all the connections and everything is as should be. I don't doubt that your information is correct, I'm just betting that there is something I'm overlooking on my end that has to do with the directionals themselves. I'm thinking I may need diodes on the directionals to ensure that the high and low circuits are truely seperated.

BlaYel said:

There are no resistors at the directionals unless there is something built inside of them that I dont know about. I triple checked all the connections and everything is as should be. I don't doubt that your information is correct, I'm just betting that there is something I'm overlooking on my end that has to do with the directionals themselves. I'm thinking I may need diodes on the directionals to ensure that the high and low circuits are truely seperated.

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you might have mixed up the 3 wires of the directionals, they have 2 +ve wires & one common -ve.
the running light is the dimmer, while the turn signal light is the brighter.

firefly said:

you might have mixed up the 3 wires of the directionals, they have 2 +ve wires & one common -ve.
the running light is the dimmer, while the turn signal light is the brighter.

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That would be one of two soild explanations possible here.
Second IMO might be something wrong with his blinkers.

firefly said:

you might have mixed up the 3 wires of the directionals, they have 2 +ve wires & one common -ve.
the running light is the dimmer, while the turn signal light is the brighter.

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Without the factory instrument cluster bulb installed all of the directionals function as they should so I'm pretty sure they are wired correctly. But the way i see it, if the instrument cluster bulb is still lighting up when wired with the diodes there has to be some feedback from the running light circuit that is bleeding over into the directional circuit. My guess is that this is happening inside the directionals themselves. :ummm: This is where I got the idea that I made need to put diodes on each of the directionals independently. :confused2:

BlaYel said:

Without the factory instrument cluster bulb installed all of the directionals function as they should so I'm pretty sure they are wired correctly. But the way i see it, if the instrument cluster bulb is still lighting up when wired with the diodes there has to be some feedback from the running light circuit that is bleeding over into the directional circuit. My guess is that this is happening inside the directionals themselves. :ummm: This is where I got the idea that I made need to put diodes on each of the directionals independently. :confused2:

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My guess is that you are right, Mr. Yel . To confirm, use your meter to check for continuity, between the running light wire and the signal light wire, of a disconnected flasher. If you are a details guy, check the actual resistance in ohms between a LED unit, and an original OEM incandesant unit.
I had a similar problem(?) when I replaced the stock incandesant 1157 tailight bulbs, with LED 1157's . Because of the reduced resistance, and continuity between the circuits( this occurs at the bulb itself - for non believers, just check between the contacts of any dual-filment bulb), I wound up with over 6 volts backfeeding to the brake light circuit, without the brakes in use. Consequently, when I have my LED-equipped saddlebags in place, I have them plugged into the brake light circuit. With the taillights on, these LED's light up nicely, using the 6volt source. And when I brake, they light up to full power intensity. It's like getting something for free, a rare ocurrance nowadays.
Cheers, Miles

BlaYel said:

Without the factory instrument cluster bulb installed all of the directionals function as they should so I'm pretty sure they are wired correctly. But the way i see it, if the instrument cluster bulb is still lighting up when wired with the diodes there has to be some feedback from the running light circuit that is bleeding over into the directional circuit. My guess is that this is happening inside the directionals themselves. :ummm: This is where I got the idea that I made need to put diodes on each of the directionals independently. :confused2:

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I didn't attach any diodes to the directionals & it works fine, are you using the rear directionals also as brake light? are the directionals you are using 3 wire or two wire? a two wire means that they have a common grounding through the body of the directionals to the frame.:ummm:

I am not using the directionals as brake lights. They are 3 wire lights so I have running lights all around and directionals. The way I see it, if the factory instrument cluster bulb is partially lit as soon as I attach ground using the 2 diode method, there has to be some kind of feedback in the circuit. All 4 of the directionals will dim slightly and all 4 will flash at the same time. It there is bleed over within the directionals themselves, I should be able to isolate the high positve and the low positive using diodes directly at the directionals.

satariel666 said:

...At the results i have now TURN signal light at both directions, left and right.
It was not the point but just happend
Anyway it works well...unk:

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1. Holding down an LED so that its legs are parallel to some fine grit sandpaper and the positive lead is on the left, I sanded down one side of it. For the second LED, I also sanded down one of its sides in the same manner except the negative lead is on the left. This created enough room to slip the two bulbs in the bulb chamber.
2. I used a beefier 1/2 watt version of the 1-kohm resistor because it was a lot easier to handle and solder. Without shortening any of the legs, I put some heat shrink around each of the negative leads leaving just enough to solder the resistor to the two leads. After soldering on the resistor to the leads and soldering on a black wire to the other side of the resistor, I put some heatshrink around the solder joints and attached a ring terminal to the other end of the wire.
3. Without shortening any of the legs, I put some heat shrink around each of the positive leads leaving just enough for the solder joints. I pulled each of the positive leads, through the bulb holder's wire holes keeping the negative leads on the outside of the bulb holder. I soldered the "right" LED's positive lead to the dark green wire and the "left" to the brown/chocolate wire, and insulated the connections with heatshrink.

The bulb housing is pliable enough to allow the negative legs to be on the outside of the bulb holder when it is inserted into the gauge console


In the bulb chamber, I inserted a piece of cardboard to help isolate and better define the illumination through the plastic diffuser.

Our master of BEST TUTORIALS hit again!
As usual great work :clapping:

Thx for clearing this out unk:

satariel666 said:

Our master of BEST TUTORIALS hit again!
As usual great work :clapping:
Thx for clearing this out unk:

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You're welcome, but your mod is ingenious--thank YOU