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Suggested:
Air impact.
Cordless impact.
A not-worn-out allen key 3/8" drive socket
Probably a 4 to 6 inch 3/8" extension to fit the allen wrench socket
Leave the downtube cap tightened until the bottom damper rod allen head bolt is loosened and removed.
If you have a later model w/o a drain screw for oil, be prepared for the oil spill when the bold is unscrewed.
Air impact.
Cordless impact.
A not-worn-out allen key 3/8" drive socket
Probably a 4 to 6 inch 3/8" extension to fit the allen wrench socket
Leave the downtube cap tightened until the bottom damper rod allen head bolt is loosened and removed.
If you have a later model w/o a drain screw for oil, be prepared for the oil spill when the bold is unscrewed.
Last edited:
DirtieGirtie
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What FM said.
I bought this set for $17 off Amazon.
"Neiko 10076A 3/8-Inch Drive Extra Long Allen Hex Bit Socket Set, Metric, 3 mm - 10 mm | S2 and Cr-V Steel, 7-Piece Set"
Those and a cordless Bosch impact wrench and those bolts are easy-peasy!
I bought this set for $17 off Amazon.
"Neiko 10076A 3/8-Inch Drive Extra Long Allen Hex Bit Socket Set, Metric, 3 mm - 10 mm | S2 and Cr-V Steel, 7-Piece Set"
Those and a cordless Bosch impact wrench and those bolts are easy-peasy!
MaxMidnight
Well-Known Member
Alternatively you can make a holder for the damper rod which also ensures it doesn't turn when re-assembling.
If you are doing a US '93+ or equivalent the socket in the damper rod is 29mm (1 9/64 = 29mm or 1 1/8 = 28.6mm). Earlier forks have 24mm (15/16 = 23.813mm).
Fix an appropriately sized nut or bolt onto a length of rod and then use this tool to stop the rod from turning.
If you are doing a US '93+ or equivalent the socket in the damper rod is 29mm (1 9/64 = 29mm or 1 1/8 = 28.6mm). Earlier forks have 24mm (15/16 = 23.813mm).
Fix an appropriately sized nut or bolt onto a length of rod and then use this tool to stop the rod from turning.
As Mr. Midnight has said, the damper rod holder is introduced into the downtube cap end, and rotated slowly until you feel the socket drop-onto the damper rod top. Holding the rod stationary, remove the slider-end damper rod bolt thru the slider end hole.
Leaving the downtube threaded cap in-place, and then using an impact gun w/a proper allen head socket size into the slider end, is another way to approach the damper rod removal. In rare instances the damper rod may spin even though the downtube cap is in-place, and the spring is bearing onto the damper rod upper end. That's when you need to use the large socket to fit the damper rod upper end, closest to the handlebars. There's more than 1 way to skin that cat. If no-good for Plan A then Plan B.
Leaving the downtube threaded cap in-place, and then using an impact gun w/a proper allen head socket size into the slider end, is another way to approach the damper rod removal. In rare instances the damper rod may spin even though the downtube cap is in-place, and the spring is bearing onto the damper rod upper end. That's when you need to use the large socket to fit the damper rod upper end, closest to the handlebars. There's more than 1 way to skin that cat. If no-good for Plan A then Plan B.
