Morley air box with Dale Walker Exhaust

[max_caper]

Hi all,

Since we're talking Dale Walker Holeshot 4-2 AND Morley's Muscle Jet Kit...I have a question that may not exactly be thread-specific.

What is the best set-up for my 2006 Max considering I am using both of these items?

I live in Ontario at about 500 feet above sea level. The temperatures here are moderate with fairly high humidity. Here's some background on my bike's configuration:

Originally I was running the Holeshot with 155 mains, stock needles, and jet screws at 2.5 turns. This set-up worked well but I wanted more power (go figure).

With the Morley Muscle deluxe jet kit installed I started by running 164.5 mikuni mains, stage 7 needles set on the 3rd notch out and the jet screws at 2.5 turns. The set-up was okay but there was a mid-range hesitation if you really goosed the throttle.

Sean recommended that I go back to 155 mains. I'm not mechanically inclined so I took it to a new mechanic (my old mech, a VMax owner/rider, was not avialable). This was a bad idea. The new mech did install the 155 mains BUT he moved the needles 2 notches richer and completely stripped one of my pilot jet screw heads which is now seized. I got 65 miles to one tank of fuel. Learned my lesson...won't ever trust my bike to a stranger again.

A fellow VMax-er helped me move the needles 2 notches leaner and synched the carbs. I left the other stuff the same. The bike worked better with this set-up: better gas milage (120 miles before the reserve light came on), no hesitation when you goosed it but the engine didn't want to unwind...it revved up instantly but it took several seconds to settle down to idle when the throttle was released. There was no throttle linkage issues to account for this.

Current set-up: A Vmax-er/mechanic serviced my bike and said it was running way too lean and did the following:

- He moved the needles 1 notch richer (3rd notch out)
- PAJ's replaced; now one size larger than stock
- Needles remain at 155 mikuni
- Pilot air screws at still at 2.5 turns (the seized screw was measured internally and found to be on par with the un-seized screws).

The Pros:
Bike now Revs up winds down instantly. No mid-range hiccups.

The Cons:
Strong smell of gas at idle. Reserve light comes at 95 miles. No perceived increase in grunt.

Is there a better configuration for my VMax? This is my 1st opportunity to chat with other Max-ers who may be runnig the Holeshot system with the Morley Muscle kit so I'm really excited about getting some experienced feedback.

Thanks,

Blaine Williams,
Ontario, Canada

 

[veebooster]

Re: Kerker vs Holeshot

Blaine,
I'd give you my settings but I'm running stock needles with my Morley Jet kit.
I need much bigger mains.

Dale #2592

 

[maleko89]

I moved these posts to the carbs section for you.

Blaine, what are your float levels?

I would keep the mains where they are at. How did the mechanic determine you were running lean before? What did the plugs look like?

With stage 7 needles I would go 2nd clip from blunt end at leanest and 2.5 clip at most. I usually raise needle 1/2 clip to 2.5 in the cooler months.

What PAJ was changed? 1 or 2?

Are your carbs sync'd?

 

[max_caper]

Hi,

Sorry about using the wrong thread. I can't answer all your questions at this time.

However,

Carbs were synched
Plugs were white

Not sure about float levels...will talk to mechanic and post back tomorrow.

Would you explain what you mean when you use the .5 clip setting? I'm not much of a mechanic. I saw the needles and they have 5 grooves each with an assoc clip. I always referred to them as groove 1, 2, 3...out from the blunt end. I didn't know there were ant "half" settings.

Thanks for your patience!

Blaine

 

[hubeerjw]

I have use the stock needles as well and get about 40mpg. You can get thin washers/shims to get the needle heights set at 1/2 clip settings for fine tune adjustments.

 

[maleko89]

Hi,

Sorry about using the wrong thread. I can't answer all your questions at this time.

However,

Carbs were synched
Plugs were white

Not sure about float levels...will talk to mechanic and post back tomorrow.

Would you explain what you mean when you use the .5 clip setting? I'm not much of a mechanic. I saw the needles and they have 5 grooves each with an assoc clip. I always referred to them as groove 1, 2, 3...out from the blunt end. I didn't know there were ant "half" settings.

Thanks for your patience!

Blaine

As Jeff said you can get thin washers and grind them down so they're equivelant in thickness to a 1/2 clip position. Look at the Precision Shims VMF Link. Paul C sells a package of 8 shims. Four 1/2 clip and four 3/4 clip.

 

[Heretic]

The gas smell at idle can be remedied by adjusting the idle air mixture screws clock wise. If its at 2.5 turns out and you are running to rich, you will probably need to increase PAJ size. Read the stickys at the top of this thread as there is a wealth of info to be found. Tuning the Max is part black magic and part luck. If you get it to run really good, it will probably be best to not try to make it run great until you gain the experience needed to do the work yourself.


The washer shim kits can be found here;
http://home.comcast.net/~onlyone12/carbs1.htm

http://vmaxoutlaw.com/main.html has great links for info on carbs and tuning.

 

[4gasem]

I have a 2006 with the Walker exhaust and Sean's kit running 155 mains, stock needles spaced up one with a washer, stage 7 springs and air correctors and idle screws turned out 4. Nothing more nothing less...

No drilling or anything... Dyno'd 124 in Topeka during the VMOA dyno days.

300 ft ASL.

Good luck!

Oh and I saw 45mpg once... 35 with my G/F on the back! NOT BAD IMO!

 

[max_caper]

That's awesome, 4gasem! Very respectable numbers. Also great to hear from someone running nearly the identical set-up as mine...on a 2006 VMax to boot! I was hoping that there was someone besides me out there running both the Morley Muscle kit and Dale Walker's Holeshot performance exhaust. I certainly appreciate your info. Thanks 4gasem, Blaine -uphttp://www.vmaxforum.net/disturbed/editor/html.gif

 

[max_caper]

Thanks, Heretic! Good advice. I'm hoping to have the seized idle mixture screw fixed this winter (in case the I ever need to adjust somewhere beyond 2.5 turns) so I'll probably leave the carbs set-up as-is until then. In the meantime I will study up on voodoo and buy a Clymer manual! Otherwise she's running smoothly and I can't smell gas when I'm on the move anyhow. Thanks again. I'll buy you a beer if you're in this neck of the woods.

Blaine

The gas smell at idle can be remedied by adjusting the idle air mixture screws clock wise. If its at 2.5 turns out and you are running to rich, you will probably need to increase PAJ size. Read the stickys at the top of this thread as there is a wealth of info to be found. Tuning the Max is part black magic and part luck. If you get it to run really good, it will probably be best to not try to make it run great until you gain the experience needed to do the work yourself.


The washer shim kits can be found here;
http://home.comcast.net/~onlyone12/carbs1.htm

http://vmaxoutlaw.com/main.html has great links for info on carbs and tuning.

 

[max_caper]

As Jeff said you can get thin washers and grind them down so they're equivelant in thickness to a 1/2 clip position. Look at the Precision Shims VMF Link. Paul C sells a package of 8 shims. Four 1/2 clip and four 3/4 clip.

Thanks, Mark.

Blaine