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https://www.vhtpaint.com/specialty/vht-vinyl-dye Google "Vinyl Dye"

Cell phone works great. My F150 has all the bells and whistles including a nice NAV system but, I just plug my phone in.

Harley Davidson has revamped the sportster model. Specs show it having 94 FT LBS Torque 121 HP 502 LBS Wet Looks good on paper...

If you going to separate the tubes anyways, why would you ever bother to pick out the seal? Seems like a waste of time.

Shouldn't be any coolant up there! Looks like oil only to me, as it should be. Yes, engine stays in place. Rear one isn't too bad. Front one requires some disassembly. Buy OEM gaskets. Buy a gasket sealer such yamabond or ultra black RTV and put a small amount in the round recess A high...

No press needed to install that bearing. Put the new bearing in the freezer. Grab your old bearing and put in in you bench vise. Use a thin cut off wheel and cut all the way through the outer, and inner race of the bearing. Rotate the inner race approx 45 degrees. Insert grinder thru slot...

It felt like it was at least 100KV!

When I was a teenager I tried to tear apart my CRT TV to fix a hissing noise. I had the back of the TV off, it was plugged in, and turned on. I found a hole on the back of the tube and thought that was weird. I put my finger over the hole. I received a shock bad enough to put me on the ground.

I've got a right rear bearing N.O.S. $15 shipped to continental US.

If you not building a bike for all out performance I'd stay away from the DD mod. Cheap and easy but, can lead to snapped driveshaft or, worse, pending on mods an how hard you ride. Removing the wire from the clutch basket, the half size friction plate, the clutch boss spring, and spring seat...

I would get rid of the wire, and the clutch boss spring, and the spring seat, and then get a full size friction plate. I wouldn't bother with the full DD upgrade though. Basically, do everything per the attachment except add a 2nd diaphragm spring.

I removed it as well. Made a little piece of sheet metal that bolted up in there and installed some radiantz LED strips on it and LED tag bolts for the plate.

This is Sean's +3" arm, with the PCW shock relocation bracket on the final drive side. Its gets you close to the stock shock location but, not quite there. It still lowers the rear end a bit.

Quadzilla's are obnoxiously loud. The ufo megaphone is not too bad if you add real packing vs the steel wool junk. It sounds great, but still loud. Without good packing they also are raspy and obnoxious. UFO did offer a replacement endcap to bolt in the megaphone that did help quiet it down...

I dont recall seeing a 3" extended arm with shocks in the stock position. Might be available. Not sure. Sean Morley does a +3"arm and can provide a shock relocation bracket for the differential side and the welds a new shock mount on the other side. It puts you closer to stock but not quite...

Sean Morely in Derby, KS email him [email protected]

Sounds to me like the battery is in good condition. You show 15 volts from the regulator with no battery but that is a no load condition and really doesn't mean much. Check the stator for proper AC output but, I'd guess you're new regulator is not doing the job.

If the rotor is warped enough to cause issues, you can feel it in the brake pedal. Chances are you just need to get used to modulating the pedal. Not much feel to it.

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/how-to-overhaul-crankcase-breather-housing.17004/

Didn't know it was a runner. Curious to see what it pulls! Have you torn into it to see what mods it has?